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Valley finger crack progression

Original Post
Ryan PK · · Monument, CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 30

Hey all, I’m looking for route suggestions on how to improve on finger cracks with my time left in Yosemite. Been trying to send fingery routes in the 10+ to 11 range such as mr natural, red zinger, p3 of serenity, and p3 of new dimensions but can’t seem to figure out how to hold on long enough to get through the cruxes on these routes when they pinch down to under 0.4 which is first joint and tips for me. Is there a good progression of finger cracks that doesn’t just involve hucking myself repeatedly at the same things hoping I’ll be able to figure out how to hold on longer? Super motivated to get better so that I can climb stuff like butterballs, the rostrum, and astroman eventually. Thanks!


For reference I’ve redpointed 13 on bolts, usually onsight 5.11 trad in co, and have freed 10d on the nose.

jt newgard · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 436

You're more than strong enough for those routes!

Maybe think of finger cracks the same way you approach sportier stuff.

Try to hit a sequence of moves, throw in some thumbs up pinky locks when it gets thin, setting up for a bigger reach to a better jam, and gripping the crack and leaning to get the best hold. There is a certain art to locking off in the best position too -- not always with a straight arm.

Small toe box, flat shoes help as well. I know folks that rock Mythos for thin cracks. I like Moccs but my toes don't!

Easy access stuff in yose:

Five and Dime

Lunatic Fringe

Church Bowl Tree

Midterm

Many more! Can just boulder around too. Have fun !!

Alexey Zelditch · · San Jose · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,050

If you redpoint 5.13 on bolts - your finger strength is more than enough to climb all cracks you listed. You just need to practice to place your fingerlocks and your body perfect. For instance when I climb routes like Buterballs I can be absolutely pumped as soon as I do one wrong lock, and after that the rest of the climb is straggle. But when I do calculated, controlled moves on this climb- I can finish it with relative "ease" and no pump.( It did not occur often, but 5.11 is my limit). The best advise I can give is to lead those routes and than practice them on top rope and on top rope work on technique and sequence. All those cracks are not uniform, you need constantly adjust your body position ( depends which direction crack lean), your fingerlock type (thumb up/down for instance) go for the best possible locks etc, until your brain can do it for you automatically without special concentration.

Another thing I found useful to redpoint cracks at the my limit is mock lead  with gear and rope clipping, while top rope or mini traxion. You can screw your  best fingerlock by placing gear in the wrong place, your pace and body position changed while you placing gear vs TR and your rope is messing with your feet in the corner cracks. And for real lead have enough gear to ignore your  possible bad placement, just place other piece two feet above bad placement. And sufficient number of gear make peace of mind and no need to bump up gear

Fan Y · · Bishop/Las Vegas · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 943

Fish Crack is a good one to learn on.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

I don’t understand what you mean by hanging on long enough.  If you have a pinkie or finger jam, you’re not really hanging on with your forearms.  You’re hanging from bone.  A lot of  muscle needed to stay in that position or pull past it coming from your lats and upper back. My guess is that you need to work on your technique and your foot work.  Also, Mr. Natural and Serenity are very different (i.e., a lot easler/lower angle) than Red Zinger or New D.  I actually find the first part of p 4 on New D tougher than the top, where the crux is supposed to be.  I suggest that you runs laps on some stuff.  For example, Crammin is really burly for .10d and I thought made New D feel mellow in comparison.  

Lauren DeLaunay Miller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 25

Agree with other posters that finger cracks at that grade are way more about feet than fingers. Easier finger cracks to practice on: La Cosita Right, Hari-Kiri, Something Good, Super Hands. 

Slightly harder: pitch 1 of the Salathe. Stone Groove, Lunatic Fringe, Sherrie's Crack, Manana, Yin-Yang, Ten Years After.  

Nkane 1 · · East Bay, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 463

Tips, Pinky Paralysis. Both a little sunny for this time of year but we may get some clouds this week. 

Ten Years After at lower falls. Tideline in Tuolumne.

The crux of the rostrum is fingers but it's only a few moves. If you climb 5.13 you'll hike that section; a lot of the 5.10 on that route is way harder.

Beta for last pitch of new dimensions: knee bar with your right leg and scoot up for the first 30 or so feet. Makes those thin hands way more chill.

The beta for most Yosemite climbing is to stand on footholds so small or so polished you would never dream it's possible to stand on them, until you do, and you trust them, and you relax, and suddenly everything is a number grade easier. But I have to retrain myself to use those feet every new season.

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

Second Pinky Paralysis. 

Hardd and Soul Sacrifice also have very good, very clean fingers. 

In terms of your three stated goals, I think Rostrum will be a much easier get than Butterballs or Astroman.

If a .4 is first-knuckle locks for you, are you getting solid locks on .5's? If so, you're going to absolutely fire the crux of Butterballs.

Ryan PK · · Monument, CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 30
Sirius wrote:

If a .4 is first-knuckle locks for you, are you getting solid locks on .5's? If so, you're going to absolutely fire the crux of Butterballs.

0.5s are rattly fingers for me and 0.4 is a perfect finger lock to the PIP joint. 0.3 are DIP joint locks. Even with good 0.4 locks i still find myself getting pumped. I do think I need to get better at my footwork so I can unweight my arms.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! Tried butterballs the other day and was surprised that there was more feet than red zinger but the crux for me was the 0.5 section. 

josh holmes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 215

lap circuit breaker until you can do it in flip flops

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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