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Owens River Gorge beta

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Spencer Rocko · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 0

Potentially headed to ORG for a bit. Most of what I'm seeing on Mountain Project states an 80m rope is beneficial. I'm curious if there are enough fun climbs in the 10, 11 and 12 range to get by with a 70m? Or if a second set of lowering anchors exists on the taller stuff? Basically, if I don't have an 80m rope am I going to be looking at lots of climbs wishing I did? 

Thanks for any info.

old5ten · · Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 4,731
Spencer Rocko wrote:

Potentially headed to ORG for a bit. Most of what I'm seeing on Mountain Project states an 80m rope is beneficial. I'm curious if there are enough fun climbs in the 10, 11 and 12 range to get by with a 70m? Or if a second set of lowering anchors exists on the taller stuff? Basically, if I don't have an 80m rope am I going to be looking at lots of climbs wishing I did? 

Thanks for any info.

there's a ton of stuff you can do with a 70m (but you might encounter some  lines where you wish you had an 80m) - in any case, tie a knot in the end of your rope on the belayer side (and don't become one of those who get dropped at banana belt).

Spencer Rocko · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 0

Thanks for the info. Ya, I remember reading about that incident during my research on the area. We're definitely always knotting the end of the rope. Thanks again 

Jamie Silliman · · Remote in my Revel · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 32

Hi Spencer, I'm in the area now for a while looking for partners.  Been climbing here for 7 years and encountered my first route few days ago where an 80m would have been better.

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,097
Spencer Rocko wrote: Basically, if I don't have an 80m rope am I going to be looking at lots of climbs wishing I did?

No. There are many hundreds of high quality climbs in that range to do with a 70. Some are rope stretchers and some may require a few feet of downclimbing.  Belayer Slayer and SOBS are examples of these. Front side of Pub Wall and Great Wall of China have been the site of lower off accidents too. Marty’s guidebook and MP will often flag these. It’s well worth buying the guidebook.
Sometimes a route will be a few feet more than 1/2 rope with a 70 for the leader, but still quite safe to rap with a 70. Examples of these are Trail Blazer and IIRC Lava Haul. I’m sure you know the workarounds for this.


I have been taking an 80 on occasion in the past couple of years because I focus on new-to-me routes and some of those newer ones are longer. But for a first trip, not necessary.

old5ten · · Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 4,731
Spencer Rocko wrote:

Thanks for the info. Ya, I remember reading about that incident during my research on the area. We're definitely always knotting the end of the rope. Thanks again 

yeah, unfortunately there've been multiple accidents at that location.  good on you for always knotting the end of the rope, it's such a simple practice and can prevent a whole lot of misery...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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