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Mental vs physical determinants in how hard you climb

Original Post
saign charlestein · · Tacoma WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 1,690

The recent threads of how hard someone can climb without being genetically gifted made me wonder about physical vs metal attributes in climbing.

I tend to agree that anyone who starts at a decent age (let’s say 30 and below) has a legitimate shot physically of climbing 8a, but so many don’t. This obviously has a lot to do with the desire to do so, situation etc. 

But what about those who do want to, and try, but never succeed? Is it more of a physical or mental barrier? 


Obviously both probably come into play, but I would guess it’s more of the mental factors limiting them over physical capabilities.


I’m curious to hear other opinions 



Lane Mathis · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2017 · Points: 211

I'm pretty sure that lattice stated that their data often revealed that 8a attempting to climb 8a+ climbers were often stronger than established 8a+ climbers. 

I could be wrong about the grades specifically but the conclusion is still leads one to believe that the 8a climber has deficiencies in their mental or technical approach and are over prepared physically. 

If anyone remembers better than I, please hijack my statement. 

Anthony Wong · · Boston · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 0

I'd totally say it's mental. 

My best RP is 7a+ and pretty close to sending some 7b/7b+ projects. My main sports climbing partner normally sends at 7b - 7c range. I thought our differences are mainly physical (mostly finger and flexibility). 

Recently I spent half a season supporting her projecting a beautiful 8a (so motivation is not an issue). I did all the moves in the second go and start making decent links after another 2 -3 goes. But seeing how meticulous she was in learning micro beta/body position/etc. and dedicated to try 30+ times in four months, I have to admit how climbing is much more a mental challenge than I thought. Obviously I can and enjoy push my body further, but I can't help wonder if all I need are just better mental game and strategy for sending harder. 

Prince Kitty Hatr · · Anywhere dry · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 27

Do we really need 3 separate threads for this topic   

I’ll play along though. I think it’s definitively mental. If motivation is in the right mental space then an individual is far more likely to go through any means necessary to improve any physical weaknesses. It‘s much easier to train and address a physical weakness in order to reach an individuals max limit and/or climb as opposed to trying to motivate yourself/someone to climb at their max limit and/climb in my opinion. Plus….like…steroids and stuff.

Hunter Pawlak · · AZ · Joined 28 days ago · Points: 0

I'm still a pretty early toprope gym climber but I've noticed that mentality has been a huge barrier or benefit to progress for myself. So I think I can corroborate that. It's pretty easy to camp at a certain level and think "I'm not good enough to do that" and then over-train on what's easy to you, and sometimes it takes a buddy goading you on to try something hard even if you're pretty certain that you'll fail. Because of that I was able to hit some routes with fake flakes and crimps that I didn't think I was capable of yesterday.

Tristan P · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0
Hunter Pawlak wrote:

I'm still a pretty early toprope gym climber but I've noticed that mentality has been a huge barrier or benefit to progress for myself. So I think I can corroborate that. It's pretty easy to camp at a certain level and think "I'm not good enough to do that" and then over-train on what's easy to you, and sometimes it takes a buddy goading you on to try something hard even if you're pretty certain that you'll fail. Because of that I was able to hit some routes with fake flakes and crimps that I didn't think I was capable of yesterday.

These bots are getting smarter

Hunter Pawlak · · AZ · Joined 28 days ago · Points: 0

I promise, I'm a person haha. Just new to mountainproject and need to finish setting up my account.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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