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Best Crack Climbs in the SE?

Original Post
Caleb BR · · Landis, NC · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 33

For someone who loves crack climbing, the SE US (and specifically NC) doesn't seem to be mecca, but there are plenty of cracks around - which ones are the absolute must not miss splitters that are worth buying a full rack of BD pinks? 

Tanner Hayes · · Columbia, SC · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

Cornflake crack is pretty sweet, as well as really anything on the N side of looking glass. As a more oddball suggestion, the dihedral crack/ Black bug at Big Rock, SC is very short but splitter. Also, just curious, what’s a BD pink? 

Bryan L · · VA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 20

Strawberry Fields on Old Rag....unfortunately it's a pain to get to in the summer and involves a long approach.

Tristan P · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

The SE is a crack climbing mecca. T-Wall, Sunset, RRG, and NRG. 

Andrew Richardson · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 220

There are a million answers to this. Here are a few of my favorites at various grades as a Chattanooga-based climber:

5.7: Jay Walker at T-Wall
5.8: Stan's Crack at Sunset Rock
5.9: Pursuit of Excellence and Passages at T-Wall
10-: Rock Wars and Andromeda Strain at RRG, Crack attack at T-Wall
10: Centerfold at T-Wall, Rusty's Crack and Alpha Omega at Sunset
10+: The Heaven of Animals at T-Wall
11-: Stone Wave at T-Wall, Back Street Revelations at Sunset, Synchronicity at RRG
11: Fly With The Falcon At T-Wall, Toothpick at Sunset, Special Olympics at Suck Creek
11+: Only On Earth at T-Wall
12-: Mrs Socrates at T-Wall

And I have little-to-no experience in NC and the New, but uhh, I know there's cracks there!

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 165
Caleb BR wrote:

 BD pinks? 

What are those?

Caleb BR · · Landis, NC · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 33

Looks like I'm gonna have to make the pilgrimage to T-wall! Thanks a ton!! Hopefully I can try to make it to Chattanooga soon. 

What are BD pinks?

Sorry -- the pink Black Diamond .5 cams! 

TaylorP · · Pump Haus, Sonora · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
Caleb BR wrote:

Sorry -- the pink Black Diamond .5 cams! 

I think you might be a bit color-blind.

The list above is spot on. Also, Roadside Attraction at the RRG for another 5.7. For NC, Rumbling Bald hasn't been mentioned yet, Go to Cereal Buttress.

Andrew Richardson · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 220

Roadside Attraction is awesome.

Caleb, what grade range are you looking for? Will be happy to shoot ya some recommendations if you come down here

Ben F · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 1

Precious Orr and Golden Gloves are decent 10- climbs at the Tennessee Wall. Pursuit of Excellence rightfully was mentioned and it's really good.

At the Red, I think that Andromeda Strain is a good 10-. Before I knew how to jam worth a darn, I mostly lied it back and stemmed in a couple of places. What a great, but stupid and pumpy onsight. It was much more enjoyable when I did about 4 years later after a bad influence turned me into more of a crack climber.   

There are some other really cool crack climbs at some secret places, but you'll have to find those on your own like I did.    

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 165


Dominaire 5.7

Fantasy 5.8

New Yosemite 5.9

Remssion, Springboard, Burning Calves, Wham Bam, Rod Serling, Spiderwalk, Indian Summer 5.10

Marionette, King of Swing, Stuck in Another Dimension, Chasin' the Wind 5.11

Took a crack at a couple low 12 cracks bitd but never sent, so my list stops where it does.  All the ones above a super fun if not outright classic.  A few are undisputed classics.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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