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Fairly comfortable thin crack shoe for wide feet?
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Anyone have any recommendations for a good thin crack shoe for wider feet? I have a pair of Acopa JBs which are my favorite shoes, but the only area they lack a bit in is thin cracks due to a higher volume toe and a bit more rounded toe shape. My Scarpa instinct laces toe jam really well, likely due to the pointy toe, but I cant stand wearing them for longer than a single pitch. Looking for something inbetween. Evolv Yosemite Bum looked promising as Evolv fits me well but from all the feedback I’ve seen it sounds like they are sloppy after break in and probably not the best shoe for harder climbing on thin cracks. I tried the Scarpa Vapor S but didn’t like how the heel fit me but maybe I should give it another shot. Anyone have any recommendations? |
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the best thin crack shoes are the moccasym hands down! the old red ones were the best but are different since 5.10 being bought out by adidas. the upmocc is a great alternative though. and i’ve seen other brands like evolve make a similar looking slipper shoe but have never used it myself so i can’t vouch personally…size them a little loose! |
Lindsey Frein wrote: Unfortunately the moccasym and upmoccs don’t fit my wider toe profile, I wish they did. I actually have the Evolv raves which are a great all purpose comfy slip on that fit me perfectly but the toe area on them is very rounded and not good for thin finger cracks. They’re great for hand cracks though. Thanks a bunch! |
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Up Moccs are not good for wide feet, speaking from personal experience. I'm now on the Scarpa Vapor S and previously/still use Katanas |
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The YBs aren't bad if you size them right. They have a very wide forefoot and small heel so it requires a particular foot. They are softer than JBs or air tommys, but the softness works pretty well for cracks and smearing. FWIW I fit well into JBs, instincts, and YBs and like all three shoes, just don't expect amazing edging power out of the YBs. |
Kyle MacKrell wrote: Yeah I have had the same experience with the up moccs. How do you like the Vapor S? |
Isaac Mann-Silverman wrote: Sounds like we have a similar foot shape. That’s interesting though that the YBs are softer than the JBs as I feel the JBs are pretty soft. What do you mainly use the the YBs for and how else would you say they compare to the JBs? |
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They're my main crack shoes. Too soft to be good in offwidths, nice profile for thin jamming. They have a stiff front half so edge okay, but I like the support of the JBs and legends more on faces. They smear well and are impressively comfortable, I take them for long multis. The Acopa shoes are burlier, with thicker leather and lining. For wider jams it's nice having that extra material, and I have no doubt they will last longer and take more resoles than the Evolvs. Fwiw I prefer the Acopa shoes overall, but given how well the YBs fit me and the free resole it seemed like a pretty good deal. |
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i can get my sized out mythos (street shoe size) into unbelievably small cracks, it helps that they’re almost ready for a resole too so they’re about as thin as they’re going to get, I only wear these on very specific routes otherwise I’m also still searching for the elusive shoe that has an ultra thin toe height for ~.5s jamming and weaseling into finger cracks, but can still edge well for finger cracks that require tiny edges outside the crack new katanas are too asymmetric for me so no way to avoid small toe knuckling without the big toe being way too sloppy , WTB 45/45.5 original KL if anyone has them!! |
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I have big kinda wide feet (11.5 US E width on the right, 12 US D width on the left). OG Katanas are my go to for finger cracks, and I got a pair resoled with stealth C4. Haven't worn the new ones. I have seen some people wear skwamas crack climbing too, which are wide-ish and stretch a ton to fit, but I haven't worn them much because the heel felt really baggy for me. Haven't tried moccs, but I like stiffer shoes in general. |
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Original Katana Lace. |
Ben E wrote: moccs should stretch out to perfect fit - mine went from painful to perfect to loose/comfy pretty darn quickly. UpMoc have stayed tight even at .5 size up from the moccs. |
Isaac Mann-Silverman wrote: Sorry for the reply, forgot I had posted this. Great insight on the differences between the JB/Legends/YB. I like my JBs and Legends though for the same use it seems you like your YBs for though so I feel like maybe I need something else. It would be nice to have a better shoe for thinner cracks but I definitely want something a bit stiffer/more supportive. Still debating trying them as evolv shoes do fit my feet perfectly. Thanks for all the info |
