N. Chimney beta

Anybody been up recently? I’m thinking just microspikes for mills but not opposed to bringing an axe. How’s the kieners to the top looking?  

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/124332181/rmnp-alpine-rock-conditions

I have a buddy who went up there a few days ago and had an epic of a time. Taking close to 8 hours to climb the middle/upper pitches. Don’t remember what he said about summitting. Still lots of snow on cables and N. Face tho that I could see driving out of Rmnp today 

Sounds decently dangerous if you have not been up there before and don't have all the necessary gear or skills. We have lost two already this season. Please folks, if your wanting to get on the diamond for the 1st time and do the casual route, wait another month. 

Yes another month for the route to be dry and climbed easily. The crux pitches are shaded chimneys and corners that stay wet long into the beginning of summer and days after it rains. 

Have fun climb on 

Photos taken from the top of Chasm View yesterday. Things are melting fast (esp over the last week) but still plenty of snow.

Sounds like real alpine climbing this summer. Take spikes (and a second rope). Kieners should be the least of your worries...

PSA to anyone thinking of testing your skills on the Diamond - If you don't know how to self-rescue or don't have solid experience on mixed ice / snow terrain, do not attempt to climb the Diamond until late August this year. ESPECIALLY the casual route. 

If you haven't climbed multiple other walls in RMNP, do not attempt to climb the diamond. It gets busier every year with people that have no business being up there. It is not something to test your skills on. 

If you aren't extremely experienced with free soloing 5.4 terrain with extreme amounts of choss, do not attempt to climb the north chimney. If you don't think you can fully judge the quality of a rock by looking at it and a quick tap - do not put others at risk by going up to the Diamond.

Get some experience on less consequential and less committing walls in RMNP. This year - stick to south facing stuff until late August unless you know how to manage steep snow. There are so many amazing routes in RMNP that are not on the Diamond. 

Any north facing gullies, descents, etc WILL BE covered in snow, maybe all season. Be prepared for that. 

Rant over

Mike Soucy wrote:

Sounds like real alpine climbing this summer. Take spikes (and a second rope). Kieners should be the least of your worries...

Damn. How does anyone go up there without knowing how to bail off a route? Or maybe they do know how but are too selfish to leave gear. Either way, selfish and unethical.

That super sucks, but real glad they made it through the night. If there's a time to epic its probably July/Aug. 

Prob just gonna rap from table ledge if all things go well, should be interesting to say the least!