Mountain Project Logo

Prusik/rope grab on pur line

Original Post
Erik J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

How many people use a petzl pur line as their rappel cord? Have you had success in using a third hand or other method to backup your rappel? 

Obviously the pur line is super slippery; I've found the Eldred mago 8 or Grivel scream to be adequate rappel devices for the rope but particularly on traversey rappels, having a third hand would be comforting. Any yone have some insight to what works well as a backup system?

Jan M · · Germany · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0

I don’t have experience with that setup.

Did you try using a different friction hitch?

The FB-Kreuzklemm is supposed to hold on steel cables.

It‘s not so well known but used by German mountain rescue.

https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/FB-Kreuzklemm

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759
Jan M wrote:

I don’t have experience with that setup.

Did you try using a different friction hitch?

The FB-Kreuzklemm is supposed to hold on steel cables.

It‘s not so well known but used by German mountain rescue.

https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/FB-Kreuzklemm

That's a good hitch. It's a version of the RBS hitch that I have made a habit of using

Calum TM · · Squamish · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 51

Following

Austin Mallet · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 135

A ~12” continuous loop of 4 mm Amsteel (dyneema) works well for a third hard. I use it in conjunction with an ATC Alpine Guide with 2x Attaches and there’s plenty of friction even rapping on one strand. The continuous loops can be bought online through cottage companies or easily made yourself watching a few splicing videos on YouTube 

Erik J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
Austin Mallet wrote:

A ~12” continuous loop of 4 mm Amsteel (dyneema) works well for a third hard. I use it in conjunction with an ATC Alpine Guide with 2x Attaches and there’s plenty of friction even rapping on one strand. The continuous loops can be bought online through cottage companies or easily made yourself watching a few splicing videos on YouTube 

Yes great idea, I had the same thought; I have some bits and bobs of dyneema that I made loops with, found that a loop made of 2.5mm was adequate. With 4mm the bury takes up half the loop on both sides making it thicker and quite stiff. Haven't used it in practice enough but I'd think the dyneema prusik would be prone to melting? 

I've added a length of 1/8" vectran hollow braid to my latest rope order and will make some loops with that. With how well the dyneema loop works, I think a vectran loop with be *chefs kiss* and ease my concerns about melting/glazing. 

I've been using a mago 8 but may pick up a Grivel scream to play with. I'm pretty much exclusively rappelling on a single strand

Austin Mallet · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 135

FWIW I found the scream to be significantly less friction than an ATC Alpine Guide. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Prusik/rope grab on pur line"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.