Hutington Gullies in a day (car to car)

Hey NE Ice Climbers-

Been toying with the idea of climbing all the huntington gullies in a day. Some but not much info online about about past attempts and or whats the standard plan. Not sure if the snow gullies count as an ascent? 

Im thinking the following:

Up: North Gully

Down: Diagnal

Up: Damnation Gully

Down: Diagnal

Up: Yale Gully

Down: Central

Up: Pinnacle Gully

Down: Central

Up:Odell Gully

Down: Central

Up: South Gully

Down: Escape

Thoughts? 

Cheers- 

Going down south gully gets rid of an extra lap. I found it to be a pleasant down climb, obviously ymmv. It definitely makes for an excellent day out no matter what!

Brett Ford wrote:

Going down south gully gets rid of an extra lap. I found it to be a pleasant down climb, obviously ymmv. It definitely makes for an excellent day out no matter what!

I agree with this.  When I played that game (decades ago) I din't want to repeat any thing.  The obvious ups were North, Damnation, Yale, Pinnacle and Odells.  Downs were Diagonal, Central, South and Escape.  So I need one more down - just walk out via Lion's Head or beat around the North side - not bad with a deep snow pack.  You want a lot of snow to make Escape ok too.  I'm slow enough that this had to happen in March

Are you skiing down or walking?

Eric Engberg wrote:

I agree with this.  When I played that game (decades ago) I din't want to repeat any thing.  The obvious ups were North, Damnation, Yale, Pinnacle and Odells.  Downs were Diagonal, Central, South and Escape.  So I need one more down - just walk out via Lion's Head or beat around the North side - not bad with a deep snow pack.  You want a lot of snow to make Escape ok too.  I'm slow enough that this had to happen in March

Thanks Eric, makes total sense.  

Pat K wrote:

Are you skiing down or walking?

Prefer to ski in/out but see how spring snow conditions stack up.

the easiest way down from North Gully was to take a right at the top and just hike down skiers left.

If the Krummholtz isn't covered with hard pack, coming down to the right of North Gulley can be brutal.

correct but trying to do all the gullies in a day with no snow pack is also going to be brutal.  we have to assume that the OP goes in ideal conditions. 

DGoguen wrote:

If the Krummholtz isn't covered with hard pack, coming down to the right of North Gulley can be brutal.

Yeah, did that only once.

I did all the gullies in a day in the early 80s when I was still an ice climber..  We free soloed everything except for the bulge on Damnation.

My ice climbing career ended when I got avalanched out of Diagonal.  Lucky to be alive.  Be careful! 

As Nick has rightfully pointed out above under current conditions it would be tough descents. I’ve done it a few different ways ( first in late 70’s!) and the ability to go down over snow/ice made it fun….

Good luck if you go!

Edge wrote:

Looks like I did the circuit just over 39 years ago. I remember it dancing around the freezing point with mist down low and flurries up high, very limited visibility.  The 6 hours listed was my time from the Harvard Cabin and back. It’s a fun objective!

Down Damnation - that's ballsy with that gear - although I do remember my Bird gave me a lot of (mis guided) confidence

Very cool notes! did you down climb that steep bulge on damnation or find a way around it? 

Edge wrote:

That gear got me up Repentance, Cilley-Barber, the Frendo Spur, Brenda Spur, Les Courtes…

Nothing wrong with that gear. 

Got me up Les Courtes too - long time ago...

 Edge, its the screws that really stank...  the tools were pretty good.  I still break out my big blue Chounard ax occasionally. 

Its all about the conditions..  Good job BTW.