A ramble for new climbers...

     If you are a new climber, enjoying the sport, and becoming addicted, here are a few tips to keep you stoked and progressing without overdoing it. Now this is just my thoughts on learning the ropes based on the way I learned it, and without a doubt there are a whole lot of resources and information out there to "get into climbing." If you can climb a ladder you can climb a rock...

Climbing goes back, way back and the history of the sport, I think, has an important aspect in the way we experience our own journey into climbing. With all the disciplines and sub categories of climbing, getting familiar with its roots can contribute so much in becoming a strong (mentally and physically) climber and provide guidance on how to or not to act on and off the wall. Just look up “greatest moments in climbing history” and you'll be blown away by the achievements throughout its history. Some of the greatest sends were done before climbing shoes, before harnesses, before crashpads, and before spring loaded cams. Even Gymnastic chalk was innovative in the climbing scene before it became mainstream. Here are some of my favorites: California rock climbers of the 70’s: The Stone Masters. Gaston Rebuffat. The stories from John Long, John Gill or Doug Robinson. The training tactics of John Bachar or Wolfgang Gullich. Kurt Albert free soloing in full lederhosen or "that picture" of John Sherman (you know the one!). Lynn Hill freeing El Cap. The power of the Sherpa! The list can go on and on; Sure we can be climbers without knowing any of the key moments and key players, but to me, one thing that has delivered so much in my passion for climbing is the awesomeness and craziness of its pioneers. It's these stories that bestow a sense of guidance and direction for our own wild adventures and keeps the psych and their memory alive. I have a picture of Lynn Hill on the first free ascent of the Nose on El Cap by my hang board with a caption I added “climb hard.” Motivation on and off the wall no doubt.

Now for some tips I wish I would've learned early on. I wish I didn't go out on my first day with $120 climbing shoes that were a size too big and blow through them after a few weeks of improper foot placements. Likewise, shoes that are too tight can inhibit your climbing experience. John Bachar, one of the best to grace the sport once said, "you climb better when your feet are comfortable." Dean Potter free soloed Separate Reality in Anasazi slip ons! However, as a new climber, buy the cheap shoes and learn the techniques because as a beginner you are gonna waste rubber by scraping your way up a rock. Practice climbing with quiet feet. And getting in the habit of taking your shoes off after each climb will make them last longer. Maybe get a slip-on shoe for comfort and ease of don and doffing. This takes time and practice getting comfortable in climbing shoes, trusting your feet, and finding a pair that enables you to enjoy climbing. 

Another tip I wish I would've learned, a tip that would prevent years of progressing beyond v7 or 5.12 had I known the consequences of jumping on a razor sharp crimps while still having beginner techniques. I tore the A2 pulley in my finger and that sucker has never fully healed. This injury lingers and hampers my climbing on tiny crimps or small pockets to this day. Even though I tape this injured finger, it still hurts when climbing hard and has slowed my progression into much harder grades. So don't over do it. Take your time and develop proper finger strength. Honestly I don't know much about preventing this injury and a lot of climbers have similar symptoms and pain. I'd say don't jump on super tiny crimps or tiny holds as a beginner and work your way up to these holds and problems with them. Even intermediate and advanced climbers should practice a solid warm up to prevent these types of injuries. Likewise, don't start an advanced hang board workout if you are in the beginning stages of climbing, only hang board on bigger holds. And experts and beginners alike, always warm up!

An additional  tip I'd like to mention even though it never applied to my beginnings as a climber is to take advantage of a local climbing gym. My friends that went from gym to outdoors took awhile to get the feel for the real rock but once they did they were sending routes with no problem. They honed their skills in the gym where it was safe and comfortable to fall, they learned the proper way to belay and climb on lead. The things to expect while climbing. Also the gym is a place where you can slowly work your way up the grades and form the techniques used to master the stone. The gym provides all kinds of benefits, like knowledgeable staff that can answer questions, to watching fellow climbers skills and techniques. You can learn a lot from just watching other people and asking questions. Furthermore, if you see unsafe practices, let the party know (indoors or outdoors). And always double check your knots!

Some other random tips I'd like to share that don't really apply to becoming a stronger climber but rather a better climber. Respect the crag. Be kind and courteous. Pick up as much trash as you want to but definitely pick up your trash. Keep the areas clean and strive to protect our climbing areas and the environment. Practice healthy ethics, stay on the trail systems and be aware of all habitats, especially sensitive habitats. So much more goes on here than rock climbing be it in the desert, the mountains, and even the city park or the gym. Keep dogs under control. A wild pack of dogs, I so much don't care, but when it comes to safety and sensitive habitat, dogs can cause some problems in the climbing scene. Especially sensitive habitats! We are only visitors here. Just about everywhere we go to climb in the outdoor setting is a restoration or a sensitive area. If you have to relieve yourself and use toilet paper or baby wipes. Getting in the habit of packing it out, as gross as that sounds, is a huge step in preserving our outdoor recreational areas. What's more gross is toilet paper in every nook and on every other bush. Above all, be respectful to yourself, others, and the environment.

Climbing is a lot like yoga in the sense that it has a mind/body awareness and a rhythm of breathing and movement. Used this way it becomes a form of meditation, a way to be in the moment and present. Taken seriously and it becomes a way of life. So enjoy the journey and have fun! Climb hard and send it! 

Off belay 

   -Kevin

I wrote this while at work on the clock so its rushed and random and probably full of errors. Sorry if I offended or sound like a jack ass. 

This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.

Well that was a wall of text. Got a Cliff’s Notes version?

This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.

PWZ wrote:

Who needs inspiration? The people you're posting to are already through the looking glass on the climbing thing. Your whole post reads as someone trying to start up some influencer for beginners blog post of stuff you've cribbed from any number of R&I articles.

Dang...  thanks again for your time and criticism.  

Leon Jackson wrote:

Solid post. Thanks.

Thanks Leon! 

My only advice for beginners is to not be a jerk in the beginner's forum. And at the crag.

I enjoyed it quite a bit. Thanks. 

Mark Hudon wrote:

I enjoyed it quite a bit. Thanks. 

Ah man! Mark Hudon! Thanks for the comment, made my day! Too fricking cool... rock on man! 

"Your whole post reads as someone trying to start up some influencer for beginners blog post of stuff you've cribbed from any number of R&I articles."

 well to be fair the climbing rags frequently steal ideas from this forum so there is that. 

Kevin, as a new climber (4 months) this was extremely insightful and helpful. 

I noticed two and a half incorrect bits of advice, IMO

-John Bachar, one of the best to grace the sport once said, "you climb better when your feet are comfortable."

This is not accurate. Adam ondra is undoubtedly the best climber with the hardest grade sent, and he downsizes to an absurd degree. I do agree that the majority will never need to do such downsizing, but it’s plain wrong to say really tight/painful shoes will make you a worse climber. Both of your example are people who were doing big wall climbing, which is impossible to do in extremely downsized shoes because of the amount of time spent on the wall.

The second thing is saying to wait on pulling on small crimps. That is totally subjective to your history prior to climbing. My fingers started off just fine with pulling on 5.12 crimps because of having over a decade of MMA experience and being an arborist for years. My fingers are beefy. As will be people who are mechanics.

I did injure a finger by hangboarding daily within months of beginning climbing. And I do highly suggest going slow with attempting to build up your finger strength with wherever you start at.

The third(sorta) is your explanation of you injury still being an issue. Tendons do not heal the same way as muscles do, and many people never fully heal from their tendon injuries because they never gave them proper time to rest. It’s an extremely common issue in MMA as well. My right wrist is shot from never resting it during wrestling season when I should have.

I think learning to engage your shoulders is a big thing to mention as well. I’ve injured my shoulders quite a couple times now because I didn’t realize that I wasn’t keeping them engaged for dynos and such. It’s natural to try to reach farther, but it isn’t good for your shoulders to extend them so much on highly physical movements

Andrew Jones wrote:

Kevin, as a new climber (4 months) this was extremely insightful and helpful. 

Heck yea! Thanks Andrew! Hope your climbing journey takes you to new heights :p

Erik Strand wrote:

I think learning to engage your shoulders is a big thing to mention as well. I’ve injured my shoulders quite a couple times now because I didn’t realize that I wasn’t keeping them engaged for dynos and such. It’s natural to try to reach farther, but it isn’t good for your shoulders to extend them so much on highly physical movements

Thanks for your time and leaving a comment Erik. Yea, suppose the whole article is subjective. Glade you brought up some valid point and I'm sure there's more. Thanks for taking it easy on me! I thought I remembered a Acopa add quoting John Bachar about climbing better when your feet are comfortable... I barely wear my solutions these days but I'm also scrambling in approach shoes more these days. That damn pulley injury! One day Id like to send a 5.13 but lately moving over easier terrain has been the workout I'm looking for. Anyways, rock on man!

As someone getting back into climbing after not really doing it since I was a kid/teen...I'm feeling like I need to go back to basics and this post was really helpful. It's going to be interesting approaching climbing with my adult brain and body. Falling isn't going to be what it used to be, and I'm going to have to work hard to get my body into the kind of shape where I can scramble around the holds and climb overhangs the way I once did so easily with my light child's frame. I feel like a total beginner again, and in a lot of ways I am. I share your opinion that (at least in the beginning stages) your climbing shoes need to be comfortable. There's no need to buy a $200 aggressive shoe when you're still getting the hang of appropriate foot placement and movement, and if your shoe is super uncomfortable from the beginning, it's likely to demotivate you somewhat from just getting out to the wall or crag and doing it on days you just don't feel like it.

Thank you for writing this post, it's exactly what I was looking for today.

 but it’s plain wrong to say really tight/painful shoes will make you a worse climber. 2) Both of your example are people who were doing big wall climbing 

Kevin didn't say that or imply it, he only gave one example, JB did a lot of crag climbing, what is the definition of "an absurd degree," . . .  and on and on . . . .

Geologick wrote:

As someone getting back into climbing after not really doing it since I was a kid/teen...I'm feeling like I need to go back to basics and this post was really helpful. It's going to be interesting approaching climbing with my adult brain and body. Falling isn't going to be what it used to be, and I'm going to have to work hard to get my body into the kind of shape where I can scramble around the holds and climb overhangs the way I once did so easily with my light child's frame. I feel like a total beginner again, and in a lot of ways I am. I share your opinion that (at least in the beginning stages) your climbing shoes need to be comfortable. There's no need to buy a $200 aggressive shoe when you're still getting the hang of appropriate foot placement and movement, and if your shoe is super uncomfortable from the beginning, it's likely to demotivate you somewhat from just getting out to the wall or crag and doing it on days you just don't feel like it.

Thank you for writing this post, it's exactly what I was looking for today.

Back to the basics. Hey Geologick, thanks for your kind words! Reading your comment made my day. Hope that transition goes smoothly for you. It seems after every winter I slowly get back into climbing shape. Most of my transition involves scrabbling easy routes in approach shoes for comfort. Like a no pad boulder circuit or easy sport and trad routes. Sure do love that feeling of knowing your strength on the rock and the ability to climb through tough spots. Cheers to shaking the rust off and get the callouses back. Rock on! 

Mark Hudon wrote:

I enjoyed it quite a bit. Thanks. 

Hey, if you're anywhere near Northern California, beginners are always welcome to tag along in our group. And don't worry, we won't judge you for being a shitty climber; everyone has to start somewhere. 

Thanks for the invite, I’ll be in California only this fall for an El Cap route (god willing) but if I happen to be up there, I’ll look you up. 

Yes. It is written. Thanks Kevin.