My partner and I are planning on going to Sicily in February and are looking to see about some climbing while we’re there. Ideally we’d find someone familiar with the area that could take us out, but getting some general knowledge of the area and routes is a minimum. We’re happy to compensate someone in the area as well. I am fine trad leading 5.8 or so, would not really want to do much sport above 5.9. What are some suggestions on where to go and what to climb given those constraints? We haven’t booked a hotel or anything yet, since there are many areas on the island to climb and wanted to have a decent idea of where we’ll be first.
The Capo San Vito area is really the epicenter of Sicilian climbing, especially the kilometers long Salinella crag, with a convenient campground (also with rooms and even villas to rent) near one end. It is about an hour and a quarter drive from the Palermo airport. The are several guidebooks available. Personally I like the one by Rockfax the best, but some dislike it because published by 'outsiders'. Most of the climbing is sport, though some trad, especially on the taller crags in the region. Given the grades you mention, one significant advantage of the area is that there is a much higher percentage of easier graded routes than is normally the case on limestone. The rock can often be quite abrasive (though there are also sections of smooth marble-like rock) but you can adjust to it with only minimal loss of blood!!! Given the number and variety of easier sport climbs, with a good guidebook and the pretty simple layout of the crag, there is really no need to have someone to show you around. In the town near the tip of the peninsula, a few miles from the campsite, there are numerous restaurants and shops, including a climbing store (where you could likely find someone to guide you if you feel it necessary)--though not all are open outside of the summer season. In the general area (a car is highly recommended) are also several very worthwhile non-climbing places to visit---I was particularly impressed by the hilltop town of Erice and, nearby, the ruins of Segesta. We were there in March and while the conditions weren't always perfect, we were able to climb almost every day of our 3 week stay.
Wow, thank you for the detailed reply Alan! I will give those a look. We are planning on three days in Sicily, and however much climbing we can get in for those three days.
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