Sport Climbers gone Trad

Probably hilarious to  crusty tradsters :)

It is actually a bit dumbfounding that such amazingly strong climbers would have never at least tried trad climbing. I mean, not even once?!? They look genuinely nervous, even though the route is way way below their usual grade.

For context, Stefano Ghisolfi has climbed 9b+ (aka 5.15c) sport climbs. I don't know what grade this climb was, but it looks like it could have been something like 6a (5.10b)?

UPDATE: Ahh, at least one of the routes was Bombardino 6b+ (5.11a), but still barely a warmup for these guys.

I didn't climb for a bout 20 years. Finally went to a crag recently where there was a crowd. It was weird hearing people talk about climbing above stoppers. Reading here, too, in the routes notes and comments. 

I think it’s the other way around. 

Meanwhile Alex Megos casually flashes The Path. It’s not that these guys can’t climb trad, they just can’t be bothered. It’s astounding, really.

With gear placements like that (0:05) terrified is the appropriate response. Climbing ability can only compensate for crap gear while you’re actually climbing (by not falling). Eventually, you’re gonna have to build an anchor and count on it.

Love this phrase I’m gonna start using: “That looks well dicey. I wouldn’t hang my coat on that.”

I actually enjoy this part of climbing, in terms elite level climbing folks that haven’t touched cracks or cams. Any of them are basically a couple of months away from climbing 5.13 trad.

What happens if a Janja Garnbret gets stoked on trad? First salathe onsight? 

On the flip side of that, the level of climbing movement mastery, finger strength, core strength, athleticism, etc., that these elite bouldering / sport climbing folks have is a) entirely unattainable for most climbers or b) would take many many years of dedicated focus to get close to.

I thought the old cliche of strong euro sport climbers not being able to climb trad was buried. It’s totally that they just haven’t been bothered with it, or had their stoke move in that direction.

It reminds me of the KJ video where he floats the equinox crack in his first two weeks of trad climbing. Or jacapo and babszi. 

hate to say it trad dads, (this coming from an aspiring trad dad) the Stephano Ghisolfis of the world are years ahead on trad potential, before they even sink their first perfect hand jam. 

Personally, I equally enjoy the different disciplines of climbing- for different reasons.  I've found that trad climbing and bouldering share more from a risk standpoint and the mental aspects (especially when comparing at-your-limit highballs to PG or R rated trad routes) than sport climbing vs. trad.  I'm kind of baffled by it too in a way, but hey, that's their choice to be elite in a specific discipline while eschewing others.  No big deal.  If anything it helps reinforce the (IMO) mistaken notion that "trad climbing is scary" and equating it some sort of sorcery/alchemy that isn't reachable or something along those lines.  The more people that look up to these folks, the less the trad classics are frequented, and that's a good thing for people that climb those routes.

Definitely was just posting in a shoot the shit type way. Lots of dynamics at play across the board for sure. I do think trad dads catch a lot of heat, mainly because it’s funny. I also don’t think older male moderate trad climbers are one monolithic group, regardless of the evidence that the taco and proj have provided

Personally;

If someone gets into trad climbing, at any climbing level, I’m stoked for them. If they don’t get into it, I’m also stoked that there’s one less person in line at the moderate near the parking lot.

I have watched comps where an elite climber can’t sink a perfect hand, with amusement and frustration.

I enjoy and get motivation from seeing what the elite climbers can accomplish with the focus on and love they have for climbing. It’s fun to see where the younger folks are going to take things. That doesn’t take away from, or specifically contribute to any experience I am able to have outdoors climbing.

Robert P wrote:

Why does everyone think "trad dads" are concerned about this - we're just happy to leave our daily responsibilities behind for a bit and goof off.

Sorry, but no one really cares how hard you climb.

This is the way

Cole Darby wrote:

Definitely was just posting in a shoot the shit type way, didn't mean to mindlessly wave my schlong around like that, sorry for being so unselfaware, guys, that was really dumb of me.  Glad we're all getting out and gratuitously risking our necks together in all our various ways to keep our boring front country lives together the other six days of the week.  Love you guys, and gals!  You all rock!

Why do I read this crap?

And what's with the stupid emojis? 

mountainhick wrote:

Why do I read this crap?

And what's with the stupid emojis? 

                                                                                        

                                                                                       

It's probably a standard emoji set. And Japanese women seem to prefer them to typing out romaji or extended conjugations on their phones.

Great vid, funny, not one piece is extended And all cams.  Lol.  

Steve McGee wrote:

It's probably a standard emoji set. And Japanese women seem to prefer them to typing out romaji or extended conjugations on their phones.

LOL! I am not being serious, I don't care. 

I guess the intended humor is too subtle or obscure.