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OW gumby needs help sending the wide
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Okay so it is rainy season in Bellingham and I'm toiling away on an invert crack machine for big tipped out #3 hands and I'm thinking about making a wider one or an adjustable crack machine for masochist ritual sacrifice to the wide boys. I have tried my hand at official OW climbing on like two boulders and a random chimney that's thin and stupid and heres the thing guys... I have no clue where to go to find my OW future mega proj to punt on while I gaze lovingly into Pete Whittaker's eyes on instagram. What are the top 5 invert boulders you've been on and do any actually exist in WA? Have I just watched too many tradprincess reels of crack camp? Like, where am I going to go practice this new found love of full body pump? Will I be destined to learn on (ew) vertical squeeze chimneys?? What are the OW chads climbing nowadays? Where are the invert butterfly jams, the hand fist stacks, the knee scums? Send help! |
Spencer Moore wrote: I can't think of anything even close to what you want be here is a rough list. So you can pretty much invert on anything that has a shelf like feature or a prow less than 4 feet I can't think of anything that is commonly done feet first though. Near you on blues boulder I added a climb to the database called blue in the face, I have no idea how it is doable any other way. The boulders in the exits are abundant with toe hook feet first beta tho not common (matts campus bump, pulling the tooth, experience beats youth, weight of the universe, stuff at rattlesnake can be done feet first). Leavenworth people will be annoyed but many problems are also easier feet first (immortal techniques/raging bull (tho neither I have sent but there is a lowball offwith next to it and royal flush which is a normal roof crack), some schist cave link ups, todo, the thing behind cowboy, low balls are easy feet first. Roped climbs where you could maybe go feet first, Offspring at 38 while not having to offwidth it feels like it and it looks like it, the crippler at vantage (I think for like 3 moves?), acid rock in the actual cave, and I imagine the negative cave. Climbs that are actual offwidths Behind the eight ball in Index (very tricky bring double of 4s and 5s if your not confident) , Sagittarius (more of a chimney) and aries (the first pitch is meh but easy offwidth and the chimney pitch feels emotionally offwidth). The offwidths in vantage you can cheat. There are two offwidth roof cracks somewhere on lost ledge but the first is on the lake and the other is on the bellingham side where no one appears to have ever climbed. I would imagine the sandstone up there forms almost wide but flaring cracks. |
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There’s a longish Trad roof at mini haha in Spokane. Climbed it years ago. Dont let 5.9 rating fool you! |
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Also more random roped offwidth routes to check out if you're into wide. Ignorant pursuit in Tieton, the 14" crack up Clem's holler in Tumwater, carnival crack in icicle creek, pitch 4 Beckey Tate south face big kangaroo, probably pitch 2 of Kearney Thomas south face big kangaroo, basically all the 3rd pitches of the monk, and Pitch 9 of cathedral peak (original way). Washington has lots of wide, not a lot of inverts and roofs however. |
Kyle Elliott wrote: I climbed that thing like 3 years ago, there is another wide one out there near it I totally forgot!! |
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Make a trip out to trout creek in Oregon: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/109048784 https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107687018/rodeo-crack Someone made a non-comprehensive list of OW here: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/115410645/washington-statepnw-offwidth-routes |
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Fun forest exit 47 has a squeeze chimney |
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If you haven't checked out the Harrison Bluffs up in BC, you should. Not far from Bellingham and check this out: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/109094835/twilight-sparkle |
Kyle Elliott wrote: This is indeed the boulder I'm looking for! Ben Kelley wrote: Ben, when Canada is easier to get to I will be haunting every crag I can and this is among the first places I'll go after The Chief. I'll be compiling a list and bullying and bribing my friends to lend me their wide gear to get the rest of the dope suggestions in this thread! |
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Since you mentioned a mega proj to punt on - once things dry, there's an OW roof project that I started and put anchors on when I was living in Bellingham a few years ago. It's on the upper left side of the Pumphouse at the Baker Crags, approach by rapping in. Fun corner to ~20 foot perfectly horizontal roof, mostly 4's with 5's at the lip. I did all the moves, inverted the whole way, but was never even close to actually sending, super heinous. Plus side is it's not sandstone and dries fairly fast, leaving a much longer season than most Chuckanut stuff. Nothing else like it in WA that I know of! |
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I love the pumphouse wall and I think I might know what you're talking about? Is it the in between corner system and the cobblestone wall? |
