How to get pumped without climbing or hangboarding?

Background: I've been climbing for twelve years, mostly trad, sometimes full-time. I've been through many training cycles of hangboarding and 4x4's.

I tweaked my left middle finger trying to onsight a roof route where my feet cut and I hung by my left hand alone for too long. That, plus a pockety gym route. Self-diagnosed A2 sprain instead of a tear because I didn't hear a pop and I'm an optimist.

I'm taking gelatin supplements, eating hella veggies and avoiding hard climbing (except for bimonthly trips to the Red, cough cough). I always warm up with reverse wrist curls (20lbs x 50rep x 2set), pushups, dips and light military press.

My question is, can I do other training exercises that simulate a forearm pump without using that finger? I already did a power-endurance hangboard cycle without using the affected finger, and have been climbing easier routes without it. Every now and then a jug will hit me right at the base of the finger/palm junction and it hurts then.

Ideas:
- Wrist roller
- Regular wrist curls with barbell behind back
- Rice bucket without middle finger?
- Hammer pronation

Basically, I don't want to lose my RRG power-endurance gainzzzzzz, but I want to give my middle finger a safe space to heal and explore its individuality.

Thanks!

Here's the route that did my finger in. It's somewhere in the Midwest, which is home base for the next couple months. I'll be on the road (Vegas/VRG to Creek to GJ) from February to May if anyone wants to tie in.

If you can afford a couple of hundred dollars, you might want to get a consult from Tyler Nelson. 

I've known two people who used his rehab protocols with good results and were able to climb and maintain strength while recovering.

Small sample size, I know...

TLDR: How can I work my forearm to maintain power endurance without using my pulleysprained finger?

Rice buckets or get blood flow restriction bands and climb v0.

False grip deadhangs might work.

I’ve been using my wrist roller with a jammed finger, gets me super pumped and I think it helps but don’t really know about actual climbing crossover. 

JM Addleman wrote:

I’ve been using my wrist roller with a jammed finger, gets me super pumped and I think it helps but don’t really know about actual climbing crossover. 

According to this article, forearm hypertrophy aids power endurance because the increased architecture of the muscle provides greater opportunities for dissipation of the pump, or something like that.

https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/forearm-hypertrophy-training/

A Theraband flexbar works really well for forearm endurance training, without putting too much stress on the fingers! I like it because you can train & strengthen every angle of motion at the wrist, which can also help prevent forearm injuries. (Which we always like to do!) :) Sorry I’m late on the response !

F r i t z wrote:

TLDR: How can I work my forearm to maintain power endurance without using my pulleysprained finger?

The only way to safely attempt it is to isolate it with a splint, but that won't have what your desired result is I don't think.  What you're asking is akin to asking :"How can I continue my marathon running training with this pulled hamstring?"  You can't, not really.

Cut thick sheet metal with tin snips.  I installed a whole-home humidifier yesterday and cutting sheet metal above your head with tin snips had me WORKED. 

I also once got super pumped using dual spray bottles to spray water and remove elephant snot (graffiti removal stuff) for removal of residual carbon from illegal campfires in Upper Dream Canyon. You are supposed to use a pressure washer, so I got some serious forearm activation trying to spray those bottles super fast for a couple hours.

Been working on a couple of things for this, mainly because I've mostly avoided the gym since the covid thing.

One minute+ dead hangs, in 5-7sets is pretty tough. I use the jugs on my hang board, or just the pull up bar. Shoot for a minute, but go longer if you can. You should be able to lift your finger to isolate it. 

Also, isometric pushes in a doorway where you're pressing overhead is a full body pump if you can hold it long enough.

The third is from Lattice. Use the pull up bar to do 45s lockoffs at an obtuse arm angled position, a 90* position, and an acute angled position. They say 45s+ activates some critical neurological stuff.

Also, pay attention throughout the day...

"Never pass up an opportunity to get pumped". -Tony Yaniro 

Use a hand pruner.  Good forearm training.  Extended training options for your neighbors houses. 

I know this sounds funny but do pullups with insulated gloves. The gloves keep your fingers really warm and it's super pumpy to grab a bar (or jug) with thick gloves. 

Get goats and put up fentz.  You’ll be hella pumped.  

Pete S wrote:

Use a hand pruner.

That looks like the work of OLH's cat ...

It's been about two months since I posted this question. During that time, I was very intentional with collagen supplementation (Costco, not anything phancy). I also followed a recommendation from Tom Randall to rig a nylon sling to a pullup bar or door hinge, then lean back onto individual fingers or two-finger combos using body weight. I feel like I'm back to about 80% now, which feels like good improvement.