NIAD* for a wall rookie

I started climbing after my little girl was born and I didn't have enough time to go into the backcountry splitboarding as I used to. She is now 5. I dabbled a bit when I was teenager doing some DWS to jump off cliffs into water and top roped a couple times. I always enjoyed it but it never was something that I really got into. My first time climbing after my little one was born, was outside sport climbing with some friends, then I started going to the gym. I did some multiptch sport, and loved the exposure and being off the ground. Soon after I figured out I wanted to climb El Cap, specifically the nose, and found out I'd need to learn how to trad climb. That was the summer 3 years ago.

My goal was to become a solid 5.10 crack climber, and do the nose wall style in 3 or so days. I also planned on climbing a couple smaller walls as practice. That didn't all go as planned...

I have accumulated all the gear, and practiced jugging a bit, and aided maybe a pitch or two. I found a partner (John Plotz) who had climbed it multiple times before and wanted to try and do it in a day. I reluctantly agreed, if I could spend some time dialing in the systems and getting fit. I'm now at the place to where I can usually onsight 11-, or get clean in two tries or so in the WA alpine or local granite crags, and have redpointed 12- on gear in the creek and basalt, but not on granite, and onsighted 12a sport. I've climbed in the valley only a couple days prior last year, doing the East buttress of middle cathedral, and cragging around five and dime.

On September 30 I flew into SAC at 11:30 and stayed at a friends house. I went to sleep at around 1:30-2 and woke up around 6. I picked up my partner at 9:30. We ran a couple errands and headed straight into the valley, and arrived shortly after 2pm on Friday Oct 1. We went and got climbers permits, and drove back to the meadow. John's plan was to climb to sickle on Friday sleep there, then push to the top on Saturday, and get our stuff afterwards. I thought it would be better to fix, and sleep on the ground. He agreed so we racked up, and headed down the trail where we bumped into Hans Florine. Super nice guy, was still walking with some crutch/cane things, but told us he had climbed the nose the day before! Absolute legend!

We scrambled up the approach pitch, and noticed there was a party fixing to sickle. We shouted back and forth and found out that the were starting at 4am, hauling, and that they didn't mind if we jugged their lines, as long as we didn't get in their way. Awesome! We climbed the first pitch, but then decided to save our energy for the morning and rap down. On the way back to the car, I saw Mark Hudon hanging out with a group. I thought about going to say hi and that he was an inspiration, but I felt like a fanboy, so we just packed up and got everything ready for the morning.

We got dinner, headed to the backpackers camp, and parked the car. After getting everything set up it was probably 9-9:30 and people were still coming in and out with headlamps and being loud. We woke up at 2 am after sleeping maybe an hour or so, and headed to the car. We choked down some breakfast on the way, and got to the base of the wall around 3:15. We were jugging by 3:30. Here I was venturing into the dark with 3000' of climbing above. We brought 1 60m rope, a short and thin tagline. We were committed. The only way down was up, and adventure awaited.

Once Up to sickle it was my block, to camp 4. I started out with just about perfect temps (upper 40's) but the smoke was pretty bad. I made it through the pendulums without much difficulty, but definitely could have been more efficient. I had never short fixed before, and was planning on self belaying with a grigri....That was a cluster. I couldn't get the grigri to feed properly with the weight of the rope no matter how I tried to pull on it, so after a brief attempt, the only short fixing would be with the death loop. I was really quite scared of this going in, but it wasn't that bad. I only free climbed easy stuff, then would french free anything that I thought I might fall on. This worked out well, as the gear is bomber, and helped speed things up. The stovelegs were awkward and strenuous, but I was feeling good.

We arrived at Dolt tower before sunrise between 6:30 and 7. We ate, pooped, drank and started climbing again. The next few pitches up to El Cap tower seemed to go well, except an ultralight #3 fell off my harness. Still had one left, so we'd have to make due. I got to the base of the texas flake, and felt good going in, but I had so much crap on my harness (approach shoes, aiders, jumars, triple rack, 14 draws, etc) that I got stuck getting into the flake. This part took me like 20 minutes to move 2 feet. I would squirm up like 2 inches, and just slide back down. I couldn't turn, or really move, my waist was just stuck, and I completely blew my wad. In hindsight, I should've dropped all the gear and tagged it up. I did have a tagline...duh!

So I finally made it into the base of the scary chimney. My tag line got stuck in the entrance, so I dealt with that, then I was ready to quest up. I was told, go all the way to the far end, start facing El Cap, then turn around at the obvious foot ledge, and face the flake the rest of the way....I tried that, and with being smoked from the entry and with the slick feet over there, I fell just before the foot ledge around 20' up. I was able to skid my way down, and not get hurt. I regroup and go to the block in the center, and use the same strategy except I trend from the center to the far edge. This wasn't too bad. I get up it, fix, and pull the line to the outside of the flake for John to jug, and break out the aiders for the first time up the bolt ladder. Everything to this point had been free or french free. I was so smoked from the last pitch, I just aided the boot. (didn't have a camhook, and it was pretty easy)  I topped out the boot at around 10:45am.

Next was the king swing. I lowered down a little too far I think, and it took my 3 attempts (counting back and forth a couple times then resting as an attempt) before getting it. Then I strenuously made it over to eagle ledge. The plan was to do the Lynn hill traverse, but in my current condition I opted just to keep going up and aiding the harder parts. The next few pitches ground to a crawl, and I ended my block around 2:30.

I ate for the first time since dolt at around 7. This was a big mistake. I should have eaten at the top of texas or boot. I was completely drained, but felt way better after eating and drinking. 

John Broke out the aiders and started up the great roof. He back cleaned the whole traverse so it made for an easy lower out. Besides getting a couple pieces stuck, the next few pitches were pretty uneventful from my point of view, although they looked pretty strenuous to aid. The sun was going down, the water was getting low, and we still had a ways to go. The rope got stuck around camp 6 (i think) and I had to rap and get it out, but it wasn't too bad.

I had a system for the belays, that seemed to work well. I left my feet in the elastic loops (in the yates big wall aiders) and left those hooked to my jumars. When i got to the anchor (John was shortfixed) I would attach my daisies to the bolts ( petzl evolv adjust) then attach my jumars to the rope of the daisies. I'd put John on belay, and tag the gear up (that I put on a sling as cleaning) Then I'd tidy up the belay, so as soon as the line was fixed, I'd just move my jumars from the daisy line to the fixed line, attach the dasies to the jumars and start jugging. This is one area I felt like I did really efficiently, and John never really had to wait and could keep moving, (minus a couple snaffus)

We both ran out of water, a coulple pitches from the top. It was midnight, smokey, raining ash, and getting cold. I could see the one party on the nose's headlamps at least 1000' below. John trudged on, and I tried to keep him moving as best as I could. We topped out at 2am and just like Caldwell on the record, my rope got stuck as I got over the top of the behemoth. I untied and found that there were 2 two liter bottles waiting for us on the tree. John suggested I leave the rope. I threw one side over the edge and pulled it up. 

We debated whether to sleep up top or to try and rap. It was kinda windy and cold, and John thought he could find the east ledges, so we kept trudging on. We walked up, we walked down, we schwacked though bushes, we walked up, we walked down. We finally found the slabs on top of horsetail falls and started following them down. We got to a point where we were lost, wondering around in circles, delirious and exhausted. It was 4 am, and we decided to lay down and wait for it to get light. I kicked out a pad in the dirt, used my harness as a pillow, and tried to flake the rope over my legs as a blanket. I slept for maybe an hour, before the rustling in the bushes made me think that the bears were trying to get the last couple pieces of jerky in my pocket. I lay there shivering for another hour and a half until light broke. 

Once light broke we were still lost. We finally went through a horrendous schwack and came out on the east ledges descent slabs. We made it to the fixed lines, (which were still in good condition) and made it back to the car at around 9 or so. In hindsight laying down was the right call. I felt way better after a little rest, and was much happier doing the descent in the light.

We drove into curry village, I filled some water, and cooked some ramen, while John got a bag of doritos and an IPA...Breakfast of champions! John had to be back at the airport by 3:30 so we headed out. After almost falling asleep at the wheel twice, I pulled over and took a 45 minute cap nap while John sorted the gear. Then straight to the airport with just enough time. Headed to my buddies house for a shower and dinner then limped to the airport myself.

Thoughts for making it more enjoyable:

1. Have a better schedule! We were both exhausted before we stepped foot on the wall, due to travel and time constraints. We're both dads in our 40's and 50's so we took what we could get, but if I was going to do it again: I'd plan on arriving a few days early, get some climbing in to adjust to the style, then take 2 solid rest days getting as good of sleep as possible before starting.

2. Spend more time in the valley. I think to make climbing el cap in a day enjoyable, I'd want to be onsighting mid 11's in the valley. This would speed everything way up, and make the easy stuff much more comfortable and less strenuous.

3. Spend more time aiding. Even though I spent very little time in my aiders, it would have gone way faster if I had more practice.

4. Take less gear. We took triples from black totem to #2 camalot, two #3's and 4's, brassies, offset alloys, 3 grey metolius, 2 purple metolius, a green c3, 8 alpines, 6 quickdraws, 4 lockers and 4 loose biners. I'd trim this down to doubles, except triples in black and blue totems, no nuts, and probably 10 draws. I never used more than doubles on my block, and no nuts, and John agreed about this for his block.

5. Drop most of the shit off my harness going into the Texas flake. This was the turning point for me. What should have been a couple minutes of 5.9 turned into a sufferfest, and changed my day.

6. Eat more. I didn't want to waste time eating, but I think it slowed me down much more being out of energy.

7. I brought extra batteries for the headlamp and used them. A space blanket would’ve been nice.

All in all it was an amazing experience, and something I will never forget. Adventure in its purest form. It did turn into a death march, but that is what puts hair on you chest (or some shit like that right)...

Dude that is pretty inspiring and impressive. Well done!!

thanks for sharing man, that's a sick story

NIAD (from Sickle)

You should put this in the trip reports forum.

Mark Hudon wrote:

NIAD (from Sickle)

You should put this in the trip reports forum.

That’s why I put an asterisk.

Sorry if my story isn’t good enough for you. I just thought some people might be interested in an experience from a couple weekend warrior dads that have day jobs, wives, bills to pay and tight schedules finding out a way to accomplish dreams. It wasn’t how I hoped it would go, but it was an adventure, and something I’ll never forget.

I certainly didn't read Marks comment as you or R K did. He simply gave a clarifying title suggestion and a recommendation that the best audience for this would be the dedicated trip reports forum. 

Very nice!!  Great job and congratulations!

(I don’t think Mark was burning you at all.  He might think you’ll have a better audience in the trip report section is all).

Jeff G wrote:

(I don’t think Mark was burning you at all.  He might think you’ll have a better audience in the trip report section is all).

He liked it, I’m sure.  I didn’t know what the asterisk was for either until I read it.  Saying “NIAD from Sickle” is a thing - been done many times that way.

Damn dude, props for progressing so far so quickly. Way to stick with it.

No, not burning you at all. I’m quite impressed actually. The “from Sickle” was merely a suggested title. Sorry for not being more clear. 

Mark Hudon wrote:

No, not burning you at all. I’m quite impressed actually. The “from Sickle” was merely a suggested title. Sorry for not being more clear. 

Thanks for the clarification Mark. I wasn’t sure how to take your comments. It’s always hard to know in the internet without any context. Then when you have instigators chiming in it’s easy to take things the wrong way.

I saw you in the meadow, and wanted to say hi, but opted not to, as you were in a group, and I didn’t want to butt in.

cheers

Thanks for the kind words everyone. It felt good to go and accomplish something I’ve been working towards for a few years now that seemed so daunting, and you never know if you’re ready. Honestly now I’m tempted to keep training, and so it with less suffering and in better style.

You should definitely keep training and try it again! What have you got to loose!

if you post it over on the TR Forum, it’ll take far, far longer for it to move off the first page and into oblivion. 

Back in early August I answered a partner request on MP to do a route up to the top of Devils Tower.
Saign dragged me up El Matador, a route way of above my endurance level.
Have never climbed with a more humble man.

Thanks again Saign

Nicely done. 

mathtutortim wrote:

Back in early August I answered a partner request on MP to do a route up to the top of Devils Tower.
Saign dragged me up El Matador, a route way of above my endurance level.
Have never climbed with a more humble man.

Thanks again Saign

Nicely done. 

Hey Tim!

The pleasure was all mine! That was by far the highlight of my trip, and definitely one of the bright spots of the season. Thanks again for coming through!

Cheers!

I’m curious though, it seems like it was a foregone decision to start from Sickle. Why?

And I’m sorry if I missed it but what was your time? 

Mark Hudon wrote:

I’m curious though, it seems like it was a foregone decision to start from Sickle. Why?

And I’m sorry if I missed it but what was your time? 

This was my first time even walking up to the base of el cap. John had climbed it 11 times previously, and suggested we start at sickle, as the first 4 pitches were really funky, time consuming and just not very good.

Having never done it before I obviously wanted to start from the ground, but was also unsure what to expect as far as difficulty, and how long it would take etc and trusted my veteran leadership.

We left the ground shortly after 3:30, and sickle shortly after 4am. We topped out around 2am the next morning so 22 or 22.5ish hours depending on which way you slice it.

Damn, first time up El Cap! That is freakin’ cool!

The smoke really sucked, you need to go back (from the ground) and do it again on a clear day simply so you can be up on El Cap in all its glory! 

Mark Hudon wrote:

Damn, first time up El Cap! That is freakin’ cool!

The smoke really sucked, you need to go back (from the ground) and do it again on a clear day simply so you can be up on El Cap in all its glory! 

Yeah, the smoke sucked. I got a really bad sore throat, and my eyes were stinging at times. It also killed the views. It did keep the temps pretty nice though…

Our tentative plan is if we were to do it again, is:

1. Take a week off, and get a real campsite.

2. Do a dolt run and stash some water(possibly even to eagle). This will help with not running out of water and getting used to the climbing in the valley again, while getting more familiar with the bottom of the route.

3. After the dolt run, take two solid days rest. Chill by the river, shoot the shit, whatever. Just rest and relax.

4. Start from the ground rested and fire to the top.

Arriving in the valley on Friday afternoon, and leaving on Sunday morning was just too much. It really put us behind the eight ball from the get go.

I feel pretty certain that with a little familiarity with the route from doing it once and being well rested, if we went back today we could pretty easily knock off 4-6 hours.

Thanks for sharing your inspiring trip report, Saign. I'm totally commenting so I can find this again in the future. Internet double fist bump.