Doodad 4.0: DIY bolt puller parts shopping list, instructions

The lightweight aluminum wrench is fixed to a thin disc of aluminum.

Doodad 4.0 shopping list

• Order from AliExpress
   
  • ($20.68 + $3.89 shipping)   RDB BEARING AND MECHANICAL PARTS          -
             SFU1605 300mm Ball Screw  + *custom engineering diagram above*. Mention the custom 1/2-20 thread and the m10 thread on the back end in a note after you order       
  • ($2.00 + 5.26 shipping) aluminum wrench as handle (many available: search AliExpress or Amazon for '6-68mm wrench')  
• Order from McMaster-Carr     
  • ($9.85 for 12") cut to 8.5". AL Hex tubing with 1/8" wall thickness:       https://www.mcmaster.com/9063T34/  
  • ($1.88) 5/8" Stop collar:         https://www.mcmaster.com/6432K18/        
  • ($2.17)  thrust bearing:       https://www.mcmaster.com/2879T33/      
  • ($3.14)  Grade 8 washer :      https://www.mcmaster.com/98026A117/       
  • ($0.78 at the hardware store)  1/2-20 nylock jam nut:                https://www.mcmaster.com/90101A255/       
  • ($0.35 at the hardware store) Thumb screw 1/4-20        https://www.mcmaster.com/90181A537/      
    • drill a 3/16" hole near the top of the tubing and tap it with a 1/4-20 tap. You might need to shorten the thumb screw.
    • If you are lazy or don't want to do that, skip the thumb screw altogether and just drill a diagonal hole and thread a coat hanger thru it so the tube can't fall off.

Your Doodad now costs you $50.00 plus some shipping.

Stop there if you are on a budget and want the cheapest possible tool. 

Optional stuff to make the Doodad better below. (Or you could literally just use duct tape instead for both of these items if that floats yer boat) -

• ($11.00 for pack of 5)  Steel hex cap, designed to snap over a 3/4" nut:      https://www.mcmaster.com/94818A036/      
  • ($0.08/each at the hardware store) #2 x 3/16"L blunt screws (x2-3): https://www.mcmaster.com/90056A075/          
  • Notes: This will keep the end of the aluminum hex tubing from getting mushroom-shaped over time. The steel cap is oversized, so you'll need to rotate it so that the holes are closer to the points of the hex tubing. That will keep the 3/4" hole centered.
• ($7.25 - or $0.15/ea at a scrap yard like Alreco in Brighton) 3" diameter 12 gauge (0.081" thick) aluminum disc-          https://metalremnants.com/product/aluminum-discs/
  • ($0.12/each) 1/4-20 x 0.75" L pan head screws (x2) + 2 wing nuts or nylock nuts
  • Notes: Drill 1/4" holes thru the triangular inset in each of the crescent wrench jaws. Adjust the crescent jaws to fit the ball nut, then drill 1/4" holes thru the 3" disc of aluminum below. Screw the wrench to the disc and you've got a handle that also reinforces the total strength of the wrench.

Now your Doodad costs you about $68.95

You still need these:

• Pulling 3/8" wedge bolts:
  • ($8.95/each) Reducing coupling nut, 3/8-16 to 1/2-20:                https://www.mcmaster.com/91072A166/      
    • note: you need to modify it by drilling out the unthreaded middle portion to at least 0.410" but less than 0.500" so that the reverse set screw in the SDS adapter can function as a backstop. Otherwise, the old bolt will ruin this coupling nut on the first use.
  • ($6.29 for 3) SDS drill chuck adapter:        https://www.amazon.com/COMOK-2-Inch-Thread-Keyless-Adapter/dp/B07JHKWWDY
• Pulling 3/8" 5-piece bolts:
  • ($1.71/each) 3/8 draw stud x 4.00"L :         https://www.mcmaster.com/90281A640/       
  • ($6.90) 3/8-16 heavy duty spiral tap:          https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/product_info.php?csv=gg&products_id=97398
• Pulling 1/2" 5-piece bolts:
  • (~$4.40/each - might have to buy 10- check auto parts stores to purchase singles) draw stud: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-22486-675-038.aspx?
  • ($11.23) coupling nut 1/2-20 to 1/2-13: https://www.mcmaster.com/98434A116/
  • ($10.50) 7/16-20 spiral tap: https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1103&products_id=97401
     

Additional tools in the kit:

• SDS rotary hammer drill, bits
• hammer
• blow tube or pump or bulb
• 1/2" bottle brush
• torque wrench, deep well sockets @ 1/2" & 9/16"
• 1/4" x 1" rare earth magnet glued into a piece of brass tubing. Fill the empty space with a 1/4" wooden dowel.
• needle-nose vise grip pliers
• small crescent wrench
• t-handle tap wrench
• multi-tool (small file for beveling mushroomed bolt heads)
• funkness device
• hacksaw blade (wrap one end in climbing tape)
• epoxy putty for patching holes (match color to the rock type)
• water/squirt bottle (mustard/honey/Sriracha)

This is awesome in so many ways. Thanks for this and all the other beta you put out there!

Looks awesome Greg! I am always impressed by the energy you put into making it accessible for people to make these tools. What a huge service to the community!

Would it be difficult to build this using metric components? Around here bolts are rarely pulled but just sunk in the hole when routes are rebolted, and there are many crags with old M10 wedge bolts that need to be upgraded.

Pino Pepino wrote:

Would it be difficult to build this using metric components? Around here bolts are rarely pulled but just sunk in the hole when routes are rebolted, and there are many crags with old M10 wedge bolts that need to be upgraded.

The 1/2-20 thread was chosen because that is the only option for the SDS drill chuck adapter (and you want the puller tool and spinner tool to have the same thread for the sake of work flow).

It is relatively easy to make a metric spinner tool coupler:

• buy this threaded insert: https://www.ezlok.com/ezlok-insert-650-10
• buy this coupling nut: https://www.mcmaster.com/90264A117/
• use a 9/16-12 tap to cut threads into one half of the coupling, then screw in the insert

or

• buy this for $16.08: https://www.mcmaster.com/98434A838/

Pino Pepino wrote:

Would it be difficult to build this using metric components? Around here bolts are rarely pulled but just sunk in the hole when routes are rebolted, and there are many crags with old M10 wedge bolts that need to be upgraded.

Pino, I replaced a few heavily used/abused M10 stainless steel bolts that were loose (bolt spinning in the hole, with one of them also sticking out of the rock 1cm), and found that the head of the bolt had stretched and it was not possible to unscrew the nut. So if you are looking at replacing stainless M10 bolts that are loose like that (usually the first bolt, or a crux bolt), all you need is a SDS to socket adapter and a 17mm socket (deep since the head of the bolt often sticks out). Since the hanger is still on the bolt, you just clip into that and pull out as you spin. SDS to socket adapters are easily found in the U.S., I'm sure that there are SDS to 12mm adapters and deep sockets widely available in Switzerland.

Gregger Man wrote:

The 1/2-20 thread was chosen because that is the only option for the SDS drill chuck adapter (and you want the puller tool and spinner tool to have the same thread for the sake of work flow).

It is relatively easy to make a metric spinner tool coupler:

• buy this threaded insert: https://www.ezlok.com/ezlok-insert-650-10
• buy this coupling nut: https://www.mcmaster.com/90264A117/
• use a 9/16-12 tap to cut threads into one half of the coupling, then screw in the insert

or

• buy this for $16.08: https://www.mcmaster.com/98434A838/

It is easy to chase a normal thread 3/8 coupler nut to normal thread 10mm with one pass of a tap. The threads are similar so you dont loose any meat. 

Gregger Man wrote:

The 1/2-20 thread was chosen because that is the only option for the SDS drill chuck adapter (and you want the puller tool and spinner tool to have the same thread for the sake of work flow).

It is relatively easy to make a metric spinner tool coupler:

• buy this threaded insert: https://www.ezlok.com/ezlok-insert-650-10
• buy this coupling nut: https://www.mcmaster.com/90264A117/
• use a 9/16-12 tap to cut threads into one half of the coupling, then screw in the insert

or

• buy this for $16.08: https://www.mcmaster.com/98434A838/

Thank you!

What epoxy putty do people like for patching?  I see grey and generic tan.  Not seeing lots of other colors. 

I like this stuff for sandstone: https://www.amazon.com/Polymeric-Systems-462550-QuikCopper-Epoxy/dp/B00N3JPTEW/ref=pd_sbs_3/142-6725960-8634137?pd_rd_w=uDgOT&pf_rd_p=180628c6-6f13-4dbf-9213-f09cdedc7815&pf_rd_r=QSJE095RN6VCZV85CFZC&pd_rd_r=df33ac61-25b7-44eb-ac76-bd63d64e6507&pd_rd_wg=FGSJ1&pd_rd_i=B00N3JPTEW&psc=1 jeez that's a long URL. of course mixing in some dust from some other hole you've drilled helps a lot with camo, as does texturing the patch with a pebble of the same rock type. gray, tan, and reddish should get you most of the way there. Not sure what to do about really black rock.

I spent some time putting together a doodad 4.0. Greg, thanks again for engineering these and sharing the parts list. 

I made one small change. Instead of a thumb screw or wire to keep the tube from falling of the ball thread I put in a key chain ring. It doubles as place to attach a lanyard. 

Bump

These tools can apply an impressive amount of force (see below). While I won't begrudge anyone for charging $390 for this nicely machined and anodized version, a $50 version will also work just as effectively. I tried to point this out in the comments section of the video below on YouTube, but unfortunately several suggestions by me that this can be a DIY inexpensive tool have been deleted there (even in response to other posters seeking a parts list). I wouldn't have a problem with that if the end use of this tool were recreational. Since the end use of this tool is at the core of the nonprofit volunteer work I care most about, actively suppressing the info on making cheap tools in order to make a profit instead makes me pretty angry (and that isn't an easy thing to do- I'm pretty chill). 

Ryan: Put the DIY instructions right next to the link to the preassembled one- different audiences will click both links, buddy.

Cheap, universal, DIY tools are what most volunteers will use to replace the rusty plated bolts that need replacin'.

edit to add: if you go watch the video, you could also post a link back to this page...

super lame to delete such comments. I posted a link to this thread in the comments. I encourage others to do the same.

Greg - would you mind if we include the parts list/instructions on the ASCA site? With credit to your hard work of course.

First, Peter and I sell the YABR for 275$ which includes shipping. I probably lose a tiny bit of money, Peter doesn't pay himself more than a beer or two. Peter and I have both donated tools to multiple groups out of our own pocket. I'm bummed that Fixe is re-selling the YABR for a profit.  This was never my intention. I fully support DIY tools, our intention is to offer tools to people that don't have access to the needed machine tools, or skills/interest in making their own, etc. In any case, the mission is to expand access to removal tools, same as Gregs, just in a different way.

Nate Liles wrote:

Greg - would you mind if we include the parts list/instructions on the ASCA site? With credit to your hard work of course.

Wouldn't mind at all. I should order a set of parts and show an assembly from beginning to end, speeding up the video on the tedious bits. I'll get that rolling. Supply chain issues mean it might take a while, so just copy/paste the first post for now. 

Also- Ryan emailed to say he will add a link to the DIY instructions.

Gregger Man wrote:

Wouldn't mind at all. I should order a set of parts and show an assembly from beginning to end, speeding up the video on the tedious bits. I'll get that rolling. Supply chain issues mean it might take a while, so just copy/paste the first post for now. 

Thanks a bunch Greg. One day we would love to have a fleet of bolt removal tools available to loan out and grant to rebolters, but it will have to wait for a year that our budget doesn't get immediately consumed by purchasing bolts and anchors - someday perhaps!  

Gregger Man wrote:

Bump

These tools can apply an impressive amount of force (see below). While I won't begrudge anyone for charging $390 for this nicely machined and anodized version, a $50 version will also work just as effectively. I tried to point this out in the comments section of the video below on YouTube, but unfortunately several suggestions by me that this can be a DIY inexpensive tool have been deleted there (even in response to other posters seeking a parts list). I wouldn't have a problem with that if the end use of this tool were recreational. Since the end use of this tool is at the core of the nonprofit volunteer work I care most about, actively suppressing the info on making cheap tools in order to make a profit instead makes me pretty angry (and that isn't an easy thing to do- I'm pretty chill). 

Ryan: Put the DIY instructions right next to the link to the preassembled one- different audiences will click both links, buddy.

Cheap, universal, DIY tools are what most volunteers will use to replace the rusty plated bolts that need replacin'.

Hey Greg,

I added a link to your Doodad 4.0 post in the video description. Ryan also mentions the parts list being available at 4:40. 

As I have stated before on this platform and YouTube we have nothing but appreciation and respect for your contributions.  

Not sure what is going on with your comments. I found several of your replies in the comment section. Only think I can think of is the YouTube filter censoring links. Happy to post anything you would like to say under our account. 

Bobby Hutton wrote:

Hey Greg,

I added a link to your Doodad 4.0 post in the video description. Ryan also mentions the parts list being available at 4:40. 

As I have stated before on this platform and YouTube we have nothing but appreciation and respect for your contributions.  

Not sure what is going on with your comments. I found several of your replies in the comment section. Only think I can think of is the YouTube filter censoring links. Happy to post anything you would like to say under our account. 

Cool. I made several comments, and all of the ones that either included an actual link to MoPro or described how to search for this thread were removed. I tried wording it differently to see if it was algorithmic, but got the same results. I thought it had to be a human deleting comments. 

Interesting. Not sure what happened but the link is now in the description. 

After about 50 bolts, the thrust washer has cracked and the aluminum tube is deformed in the middle, so the nyloc jam nut gets jammed.

Expected wear, or inordinate abuse? Easy and cheap enough to fix as the ball screw is still fine, but for anyone building one of these, it might be worth having a few of those parts to spare.