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Free Escapers

Original Post — This topic is locked and closed to new replies
Jordan Day · · Highland, UT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 3

Respond only by direct message please.  I am keeping the thread locked so only I can bump it.  This way I don't get overwhelmed with requests. 

Disclaimers

Like all climbing equipment, Beal's or my Escaper are safe if used properly.  They are not at all safe if you are not fully trained in their use.  You can familiarize yourself by watching Beal's videos online, being shown by someone experienced, and by practicing use of the device on the ground before going live.  Please don't order this device unless you are a highly experienced competent climber who also has experience retrieving stuck rappel ropes.  Use at your own risk.  My preference is to send these to people who have actual experience with the Beal Escaper.

 

 I have given away approximately 120 micro-Escapers that I make.  It is a way to give back to the climbing community that has given so much to me. I can drop off your free order at a gear shop in SLC for you to pick up.  You can also do pick up at my house in Highland, Ut (by Lehi).  Shipping is available for minimum cost, use Venmo or Paypal.  One of my buddies said his wore out after 130+ uses.  I have used mine approximately 180 times but spread over a dozen different Escapers.  Options you can pick from are explained in painful detail below!

I have hand made a large number of Escapers over the past few years including dozens of design variations.  I estimate they have been rappelled on 1200+ times.  Any new variations are pull tested to 15kn, stopping there rather than going to destruction.  There have been zero failures.  They are built to the same strength as the commercial Escaper rated at 18kn.

The smallest one I make is 1/6 the bulk and weight of Beal's version. Mine have other optional add-on features as you will see in the photos below. Beal uses 10mm dyneema webbing and nylon rope in their Escaper. I use a single length of Wild Country 10mm dyneema webbing with kevlar and dyneema stitching to make mine.

The photos are scaled so the hands are about the same size. The blue version is Beal's of course.

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1. Minimal left, Beal center, Longer tie-in loop Option #3 shown on right

The black Escaper on the left is my smallest version. The Escaper on the right is the optional knot version.  Next photo down explains the longer tail.  Two photos down will explain the long tie in loop.

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2. When do you need a longer tail?

Beal's version is designed to give you 8 pulls before it comes down.  I have an option for the tail to be longer so you can thread anchor rings that are separated from each other and still get 10 or 12 pulls.  The number of pulls is reduced in Beal's version for separated rings which is why they say not to thread both rings.  Above there is only enough tail to give one or two pulls before it releases. (quicklinks represent separated anchor rings)

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3. Optional Knots for tying rappel rope to Escaper(carabiner represents anchor)

Standard short tie-in loop like Beal uses:  Beal uses a follow through knot (left in both photos) to tie the rope to a short Escaper loop.  Most of the Escapers I make use the short loop. 

Loop Option long:  Triple sheet bend knot shown (right in both photos).  It is a lot smaller profile knot that hopefully allows the rope to pull from behind a flake without hanging up.  You must memorize the correct way to tie this knot if you choose this option.  (tying the knot 1,tying the knot 2) I had to put kevlar stitches into the dyneema where the knot is so it would have sufficient friction to work (you don't see them here they are on the rope side only).  Without the kevlar the climbing rope would incrementally slip through the knot every time I bounced my weight on the climbing rope.  At the same time the knot in the dyneema would cinch down so tightly it was impossible to untie. 

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4. Leather stuff sack for Escaper

The two on the left are the minimal size to hold the Escaper and a prusik(see below).  They will survive much more abrasion than Beal's nylon stuff sack. They attach by girth hitching to your harness.  You can choose a smaller stuff sack than shown if you choose the minimal size Escaper and if you don't want the included prusik loop.  

The huge stuff sack is about 8" X 4.5" and will hold a fairly large headlamp, energy bar, Escaper and a medium prusik loop all at once!  You can choose any measurement in between as well.  

Choose your options before ordering 

 (Choose any combination of the numbers 1 through 4)

1.  Completely minimal Escaper, pouch included

2.  Longer tail for threading two separated rings (recommended)

3.  Long loop for fussy low-profile knot(not excessively fussy once you memorize and practice it - most people 

     don't choose this option)

4.  Larger than minimum size stuff sack?  What measurement?  

      The small pouches will come with a longer cord to girth hitch to your harness.   The large stuff sacks will be setup to connect to your harness with a carabiner.

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Retrieving a stuck rappel rope

The photo above shows the new shorter prusik I am making now.  Placing the seam in the orientation shown allows for a shorter less bulky prusik loop.

Retrieving a stuck rappel rope

The Escaper is a replacement for a second rope when doing full length rappels.  If your rope hangs up on a feature as it falls, you don't have a second rope to lead back up with.  You need to know how to anchor the stuck rappel rope to your partner, connect yourself to the rope with a prusik loop, and slide it up as you climb while placing gear in case the rope pops free as it often does.  Summary:  The prusik will catch you like a top rope belay unless the stuck rope pops free, in that case the prusik on the rope catches a lead fall onto the gear you place and clip as you climb.

On the left the photo above shows a Sterling HollowBlock Aramid Prusik loop attached to a harness.  The Prusik is included with your Escaper.  It does not slip in a fall when it lies flat on the rope with no twists as shown in the two lefthand examples.  Always check that it holds before use.  The melting temperature is double that of nylon, its breaking strength is 25kn.  Caution:  the rightmost example has twists on both the top and bottom loops around the rope, it will slip!   

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Rappelling from a tree, sling not left behind.

 You must use a sling, you cannot wrap the Escaper tail directly around the tree - too much friction, it won't release.  The pink string  retrieves the sling from the tree.  No carabiner is needed - there is negligible weight on the sling when the Escaper threading tail is in motion during pulldown, therefore virtually no heat or wear is generated(The Escaper slides an incremental distance on the sling only as you release the rope after each pull).  

The string has loops on either end.  You girth hitch the string to one side of the sling.  Thread the rappel rope through the opposite loop in the string just before passing the rope into the Escaper and finishing your follow-through knot.  The dyneema string is rated for 80lbs and can be broken if the sling hangs up on a feature.

Click Here for video of Sample Escaper test pull at 16kn  To enlarge the video to full screen I clicked on the expand arrows in the upper right hand corner of the gray window then double-clicked the video.  I was going for 18kn but ran out of threads on my turnbuckle - No damage to the Escaper at all, no slippage.

Prusik sample test pull here was done the same way as the video of the Escaper test pull on my equipment.  The peak load was 23.5kn but it settled down to 22.39kn by the time I picked up the camera and took the photo.  Actual strength of the prusik is over 25kn but I stopped short rather than destroy it.  

There are 3 rows of dyneema stitching underneath a single bar tack .  Here I am just beginning the bar tack stitching.  The combined stitches provide well over double the strength needed to reach 25kn.

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

sweet

Artem Vee · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 708

Messaged

Tyler Schmauch · · SLC, UT · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Very cool! Messaged.

Jordan Day · · Highland, UT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 3

bump

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