Hexes?? Are they worth it?

I honestly have never used hexes but I see them for sale everywhere. I guess I’m just wondering how do they compare to cams and stoppers? And should I have some on my rack?

Once you go fully passive youll never go back.

Well... They're on sale everywhere for a reason. On the other hand, a previous thread has made some compelling arguments that they are "goody style".

In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them.

ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. BD hexcentrics are a lot of the reason people hate hexes.

You would know if you wanted them

Jason Zevenbergen wrote:

ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. BD hexcentrics are a lot of the reason people hate hexes.

I don't really understand this. Why do people hate BDs over others?

Yoda Jedi Knight wrote:

I don't really understand this. Why do people hate BDs over others?

Kinda the same reason curved nuts replaced straight-sided ones; the curve allows them to set well into a variety of constrictions, whereas a straight-sided piece needs the constriction angle to pretty closely match the taper of the piece. Also, most people seem to prefer slung hexes over wired ones (lighter and easier to place the larger sizes).

I think most of these arguments really come down to your personal style of climbing and what you enjoy.

I like looooong easy or moderate climbs that take all day even when moving quickly and I absolutely love hexes, tricams, and nuts. They’re bomber when placed correctly, really light compared to cams, and just plain fun to place. They do take more practice to learn to place quickly than cams, but once you have it down they aren’t going to slow down your time on a multi pitch climb.

Now, if you’re number chasing and red pointing projects above your limit (sorry, I’m old school, so if you think you’re going to fall, you’re stretching above your limit in my book), almost everyone prefers the speed with which a cam can be placed well enough to hold a fall. This is an important style of climbing, both individually and for the sport. It isn’t my style though, so for me I usually keep a small rack of cams at the back of the harness as just-in-case pieces and I rack up with nuts, tricams, and hexes.

My second is tolerant of this because he doesn’t want to lead anymore and accepts that the rack is the rope-gunners choice. If you’re swinging leads with a consistent partner, you’ll want to be considerate of what they’re willing (and able) to place and clean.

All that said, if you do decide to add hexes to your rack I agree with Jason above, WC Rockcentrics and DMM Torque nuts are the ones to get. I think they both place great and are pretty equal in my book. The extendable slings on the torque nuts are awesome, but they only come in 4 sizes and aren’t cheap (~$70 new, $50+ used). The Rockcentrics lack the extendable sling, but come in a full range of sizes and can be found used for $40/set 3-10). BD hexcentrics are the worst of the bunch, but you can find them super cheap if you’re patient ~$20/set (4-11) and the #11 is huge. If you go BD, don’t buy them new or on wire. Pick up an ancient set and sling them on some 6-7mm cord with a double fisherman’s knot (5.5mm tech and a triple fisherman’s if they have the newer small holes). BD sizes 1-3 are too small to cam properly on the wire they come on and are in my opinion almost completely useless.

You're in Montana? Then, hexes for sure; they'll keep the bears away.

they do make perfect gear pulls.  

James Corbett wrote:

I honestly have never used hexes but I see them for sale everywhere. I guess I’m just wondering how do they compare to cams and stoppers? And should I have some on my rack?

A cam placement is not a hex placement and vice-a-versa. Best to think of hexes as an extension into larger sizes from your set of nuts. If you know the difference between a nut placement and a cam placement, nuff said.  :)

Metolius Curve Hexes

1/10 troll

Heex’s are absolutely the best and only anchor needed for devils lake.  Perfect for top rope anchors.   Past that, have not used except once on a devils tower Epic.  

Not Hobo Greg wrote:

Don’t listen to any of the old guys or kooks here. For trad they are almost useless except for anchors. Just use cams. Does anyone still think a horse and buggy is better than a Tesla? They’re not even that much lighter nowadays with the new BD c4s (the #4 equivalent hex is only three ounces lighter than the new c4 #4). Unless you are beyond broke there’s just no reason to use antiquated technology when something so much better (cams) exists.

Equestrians. Many tens of thousands of equestrians in the US alone would say a horse is better than a Tesla as a way to burn a weekend. Climbing after all is a hobby for 99.999% of us.

Borrow some hexes and give them a try. You’ll love them or hate them. If you love them, buy some and have a blast. If you hate them, buy another cam and have a blast. Both are safe and effective forms of protection with advantages and disadvantages.

PS, 3 ounces per piece will add up quick on a long approach/route.

J.Frost wrote:

Equestrians. Many tens of thousands of equestrians in the US alone would say a horse is better than a Tesla as a way to burn a weekend. Climbing after all is a hobby for 99.999% of us.

Borrow some hexes and give them a try. You’ll love them or hate them. If you love them, buy some and have a blast. If you hate them, buy another cam and have a blast. Both are safe and effective forms of protection with advantages and disadvantages.

PS, 3 ounces per piece will add up quick on a long approach/route.

The inexperienced haters will hate, its what they do.

Agree with Bill,   Cams and hexes have some overlap for sure, but hexes can fill an extra niche (Rare, but something to consider for some areas/routes).  Other than that, they are mostly used by top ropers for anchors.  Rarely on lead....other than maybe one or two to fill out an alpine “bag of tricks” biner.  (I sometimes carry a biner with such things as a ball nut, rurp, tricam, hex, or other esoterica that just may fit better than the main rack std cams and nuts).  Something satisfying about pulling that out every now and then and and placing one. 

plus, to extend the different niche theme with the horse vTesla comparison...you can’t eat a Tesla

Curve hexes are worth it

Mark Pilate wrote:

Agree with Bill,   Cams and hexes have some overlap for sure, but hexes can fill an extra niche (Rare, but something to consider for some areas/routes).  Other than that, they are mostly used by top ropers for anchors.  Rarely on lead....other than maybe one or two to fill out an alpine “bag of tricks” biner.  (I sometimes carry a biner with such things as a ball nut, rurp, tricam, hex, or other esoterica that just may fit better than the main rack std cams and nuts).  Something satisfying about pulling that out every now and then and and placing one. 

plus, to extend the different niche theme with the horse vTesla comparison...you can’t eat a Tesla

A RURP? Seriously? Of course I've carried one every day for almost 40 years...

...never been placed though.

Pete S wrote:

Heex’s are absolutely the best and only anchor needed for devils lake.  Perfect for top rope anchors.   Past that, have not used except once on a devils tower Epic.  

I love using hexes at the Lake to make an all day rap anchor that won't get stolen. My buddy and I just run around leading things in the vicinty, and just take the elevator back down.

I wouldn't buy an entire set, but a few big hexes are totally worth it IMO. My BD big gold hex has been placed more than any of my other nuts. It fits where nothing else does and has kept me from decking. Mine is 20 years old. Buy it. 

Not needed, most of the time. I often leave them at the base (or at home), but sometimes the cam doesn't fit and there is a nice constriction for the hex. Yes, you can usually find another spot for the cam, but perhaps not where you really want it.  I would have had some dangerously long run outs on one alpine climb last summer without them. No way I was trusting cams in serpentine rock.

I have the DMM set.

Nobody ever says "im just too damn cheap or poor to buy a second set of cams". Why is that, are we that first world here in the "dirtbag" community?

Asking for a friend of course.