Home Boulder Wall Recommendations

Hello all, 

I recently scored a magnificent home bouldering wall that I am buying from a climbing gym that has closed. It is comprised of six 4' x 8' panels and comes with 120 holds and a 5'x8'x7" gymnastics pad. I also happen to have a wonderfully giant barn with some significant space in it in which we have a lot of options for wall setup. The space is much much larger than the current wall so we will be able to add on to it later. With COVID still raging and no end in sight, I am not confident in the availability of indoor climbing this year once it gets to cold to climb outside. 

Here is my plan: 

Two slightly different walls that are directly next to each other. 

Wall A: 8' wide with a 2' kicker along the bottom that is completely vertical. Above the kicker, the wall will be 8' tall and underhung at 20 degrees. Above the top of that section will be a 4' tall section that is leaned back to the vertical (so leaned back on roughly a 45 degree angle). I am imagining that this section will allow for some really interesting climbs in which we can include some mantling and heel/toe hooking moves. 

Wall B: Again 8' wide with a 2' tall kicker along the bottom edge. Above the kicker, the wall is 8' tall and underhung at 15 degrees. Above the 8' section is another 4' tall section that is underhung at a further 15 degrees. I imagine that this set up will be good for setting some climbs that transition into a roof. 

I am looking for recommendations/critiques/comments on this design. Basically, I am looking for input as I have no experience setting up my own wall. 

Thanks,
Tristan

If you can fit 8'by12' I have found a 30° board like that to be big enough for good movement and an old queen mattress is enough for a crash pad. it is really easy to make with 2x6 studs and three full sheets (I added 2x4 blocking between the 6 studs to stiffen the structure along the seams of the plywood). then you could do a 10° next to it. having the mantel part might be worth the extra building complexity. I really like the training possibility that my 30 degree board gives me though.

I would do one 8x12 moonboard at 40 degrees and then do one 8x12 30 degree spray wall with your 120 holds. 

Building an angle change sounds nice now but I think most people agree that having broad, flat surfaces gives you the most options long term. You can always add volumes if you want some more options.

ETA: The convex wall might be kinda cool but concave walls are not that fun. You lose the benefit of the steepness when your feet are still on the less-steep wall. Think about climbing out a roof- the part when your feet are on the vertical wall isn't that hard; pulling the lip is usually the crux. A single angle wall will be easier to build and more fun.

Take inspiration from Alec's garage (and this whole thread): mountainproject.com/forum/t…;

+1 for Nkanes suggestion. Two separate 8’x12’ walls. I’d go with the moonboard and spray wall suggestion myself but that may be dictated by your current strength. Either way I’d build one of the walls to moonboard specs and possibly worry about buying the moon holds later down the road, in the meantime just set boulders on it