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multi pitch potential in Mt Rainier NP

Original Post
lucas funkhouser · · Buckley Wa · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 309

Found this wall in the northeast corner of the park. Roughly 500ft. Rock quality looks great from afar but I haven been up close. Curious if it has any climbing history 

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,952

500ft isn't big wall, it's like 3 pitches.

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

I know nothing about that wall specifically but the reason it likely hasn't been developed recently is that there are lots of rules about where you can bolt based on where the rock actually is, national parks tend to not like bolting in recent years. We kinda discussed this in this thread: mountainproject.com/forum/t…  and here is an article about ithttp://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13x/wfeature-directors-order-41  

lucas funkhouser · · Buckley Wa · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 309
Double J wrote: 500ft isn't big wall, it's like 3 pitches.

Seems subjective to me. Is there a technical definition of big wall?

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,718
lucas funkhouser wrote:

Seems subjective to me. Is there a technical definition of big wall?

I think you have to use pitons and aiders and sleep on a portaledge. Then it's a big wall. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
lucas funkhouser wrote:

Seems subjective to me. Is there a technical definition of big wall?

"Too big to climb in a day"

The general assumptions being:
* for the majority of parties
* "normal" climbing days, meaning usually daylight - not these 18 and 24 hr marathons
* aid climbing is usually required, but not an absolute.
Keith Wood · · Elko, NV · Joined May 2019 · Points: 480

Looks like nice rock. Get gutsy and climb it trad or aid with no bolts.

Question: How are you going to get across the river to it?

lucas funkhouser · · Buckley Wa · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 309
Keith Wood wrote: Looks like nice rock. Get gutsy and climb it trad or aid with no bolts.

Gutsy for sure. Other than the obvious roof, the walls look slabby and blank. I’m going to get up and personal with it this afternoon so I will let yall know.

I am hoping to find a log to cross on. 
saign charlestein · · Tacoma WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 1,690

I’ve looked at that wall myself and wondered why the closest traveled area around rainier is tieton. I’m interested to hear what you find

lucas funkhouser · · Buckley Wa · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 309

I tried to get across the river on Wednesday but got turned around by A slippery log halfway out of the water. 

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,738
I've heard there is at least an old bolt ladder at Snoquera Falls, Camp Sheppard.
http://johnshiking.blogspot.com/2016/04/what-beautiful-day-it-was-it-almost.html
Keith Wood · · Elko, NV · Joined May 2019 · Points: 480
lucas funkhouser wrote: I tried to get across the river on Wednesday but got turned around by A slippery log halfway out of the water. 

Maybe plan B could be a raft. Because the three mile hike from the airstrip looks pretty rough.

lucas funkhouser · · Buckley Wa · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 309
Keith Wood wrote:

Maybe plan B could be a raft. Because the three mile hike from the airstrip looks pretty rough.

Yeah. Honestly crossing the log with some sort of metal cleats on would be safer or at least easier than crossing in a raft imo 

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
lucas funkhouser wrote:

Yeah. Honestly crossing the log with some sort of metal cleats on would be safer or at least easier than crossing in a raft imo 

If they only made something like that, you know like what people wear for crossing glaciers.

lucas funkhouser · · Buckley Wa · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 309

I was thinking of something along the lines of baseball, golf or, track cleats. I know loggers have cleats made for this exactly. Crampons would work, if you have them, but who wants To drop a benji for a ten foot river crossing.

​Ps: I may be bias as I was raised in team sports 

Jack Carbon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Checked that rock few years ago, not many cracks,lots of lichen, moss, send in bryan burdo. Snoquera falls has 5.7-5.8 scuzy route thru falls area.

lucas funkhouser · · Buckley Wa · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 309
Jack Carbon wrote: Checked that rock few years ago, not many cracks,lots of lichen, moss, send in bryan burdo. Snoquera falls has 5.7-5.8 scuzy route thru falls area.

Good to know. Do you recall how you crossed the river or the rock type? Andesite/basalt I’m guessing 

fossil · · Terrebonne OR · Joined May 2015 · Points: 126

lucas funkhouser from the monolithic look of that rock I would say that it is granodiorite of the tatoosh pluton.  A geologic map of Mt. Rainier shows quite a bit of it in the n.e. corner of the park.

lucas funkhouser · · Buckley Wa · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 309
fossil wrote: lucas funkhouser from the monolithic look of that rock I would say that it is granodiorite of the tatoosh pluton.  A geologic map of Mt. Rainier shows quite a bit of it in the n.e. corner of the park.

Awesome thanks. Where would I find that map?

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,738
ngmdb.usgs.gov/Prodesc/prod…
and look for the orange  "Tdi"  areas.
lucas funkhouser · · Buckley Wa · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 309
Clint Cummins wrote: ngmdb.usgs.gov/Prodesc/prod…
and look for the orange  "Tdi"  areas.

It looks like the crag itself is of volcanic breccia, sandstone, and siltstone of epiclastic and pyroclastic origin “To”. I does but up next to “Tg” granodiorite and quartz monzonite. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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