Mountain Project Logo

Climbing at the Needles for the first time

Original Post
Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

My wife and I are going out to the Needles for the first time this weekend. Leaving after work and probably arriving around 1am Friday night. We are both solid 5.11 trad climbers but I’ve heard it can be hard to get around out there so we aren’t expecting to do a lot of climbing on our first trip. We figured we’d probably be looking around a lot on Saturday getting the lay of the land. It’s supposed to be 80 degrees this weekend which is a little toasty for my taste. We have Kristian Solems guide book but I’m looking for any beta that frequenters of the area could give us to make our first trip more enjoyable.
1: Is 80 degrees too hot?
2: Are there a lot of shaded routes or is it a super sunny area?
3: Any tricks for getting around?
4: Any recommendations for single pitch routes or obscure routes to get the feel of the area without bothering with getting in line for the classics?
5: Any particular gear I should load up on?
6: Is the area pure crack climbing or are there lots of edges and face climbing mixed in the routes?
7: Should we hike in on Saturday and sleep near the climbs until Sunday or is the walk back to the car on Saturday night a better option?
8: Is there water anywhere or do we need to pack it all in?
9: Are there marmot problems with leaving packs on the ground?
10: We are used to climbing in Yosemite and Joshua Tree, anything weird about The Needles rock we should be aware of?
11: Anything else we should be aware of?
Thank you to anyone who answers!! :)

Bug Boy · · In my car · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 81

80 degrees is pretty hot but its easy to chase shade and climb a west facing wall in the morning and east in the afternoon.
(didn't climb there when it was this hot but I imagine climbing in the sun would be pretty unbearable)
Bring plenty of small offset nuts and micro cams.
A good mix of crack and granite face climbing.
Not worth camping near the climbs IMO, but you can stash all your climbing gear at the notch where you hike to each day.
No water available, bring plenty with you, the hike in and out might be hot.
Didn't personally encounter any issues with marmots or other critters
Don't be afraid to climb on all the classics, it's easy to see what other parties are climbing. "Silver threads" was my first route there and I found it quite enjoyable, just make sure its in the shade.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Thank you! Someone just got their gear stolen this last weekend from stashing it so I won’t be doing that. The world is changing. Maybe we’ll stick to single pitch to keep in the shade all day. Offset brassies....check! Anyone else?

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

1. No.  It can still be chilly in the shade.
2. Many climbs are in fairly tight canyons or gullies, so picking sun or shade is often easy.
3. Just find the right trail when you leave from the notch at Magician.
4. it can get crowded but never too much so.  If you go to Witch/Sorceror gully you will find something that’s open.  Honestly, most people climb probably the same 10 routes.
5. No.
6.  Pretty mixed, depending on the route. Nice, featured rock.
7. I’ve never found it worth sleeping by the climbs.  The approach seems tiring the second day but not as tiring as humping in a lot of camping stuff AND water.
8.  See no. 7 (yes, bring it).
9. No marmots.
10.  Just that it’s more awesome than either.
11. Mentally it feels really intimidating to me, like a really exposed Cookie on steriods.  Once you launch though, it’s all good.

Lone Pine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Hey Jon,

Watch out for rattlesnakes, especially on those rocky sections during the approach. I had a really close call a couple of years ago. Getting around is surprisingly easy. As mentioned above, stick to west faces during the morning and east faces during the afternoon. The east face of the Sorcerer goes into shade at around 1 PM. Good selection of 5.11 classics on that wall. Since you are used to Yosemite and Joshua Tree granite, you’ll find Needles 5.11 routes pretty comparable and it should not take you long to get used to the climbing.

Also, don’t forget to bring those brassies!

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Thanks guys! I’ve been wanting to get out there for years but kept putting it off. I felt like it had a “spooky vibe” from all the pictures I’ve seen. Looking forward to finally find out for myself. 

Jake P · · Costa Mesa · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Even when it's warm, you'll oftentimes find yourself chilly up high, in the shade and the wind. The geographic layout of the area makes finding shade super easy. On the approach, when descending from Magician, you're looking for a notch in a mini rocky rib. After punching through this, opt for the high trail (couple of cairns) which take you to the Magician/Djin notch and an easy to follow trail all the way to Sorcerer/Witch notch. Lots of pure crack climbing as well as face climbs and discontinuous cracks connected via face climbing. Entity or Spook Book are great introductions and you won't have to wait in any lines. Enjoy some wide? South Face and S Crack (also no lines). Camping situation is too awesome to sleep at the notch. In my experience, leaving gear out there has always been chill. If you've heard of a different experience I'd love to hear about it. Atlantis and Don Juan should be on the shortlist..wailing banshees if there's a line for Don Juan.

Oh, and pray for fighter jet flybys.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Jon you will be fine. If you drive and get their at 1am.... I suggest you camp at Dome rock. Drive down the dirt road and at the big dirt lot go left... look for little pine trees on the right- camp their. You can sleep and hang in the shade, sleep late and climb at Dome Rock. It starts getting good around 3-4 pm. Go way over by Tobins Dihedral. I recommend you climb “Saucer full of secrets“ 5.10 lots of good stuff on that side. No need to go to the top- it’s hot and long. Get a early start- way early way early(be hiking by 6) and go climb “Igor unchanged” Or if people are already starting that see if you can get on “Airy Interlude” after that you will see what is up with the place and you might not leave. Weekend trips are hard, the hike must be factored into your planning. I like to go Friday early and do some climbing at Dome till dark- then get up and hike out to the big stuff, climb all day and hike out at 9pm with headlamps, sleep late, maybe pancakes at the Pondrosa then go to Trilogy Rock. A few climbs worth doing.... Slot Machine 11 is a fabulous climb- you can get lowered from the top and TR it. The sun will chase you out about 1pm. Have a blast. 

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
Guy Keesee wrote:   then get up and hike out to the big stuff, climb all day and hike out at 9pm with headlamps...

Glad to know I'm not the only who is hiking out in the dark...good advice for the OP: bring a headlamp and check the batteries.  Last time we needed them they died after about 10 minutes, so we had to use our phones, which also died after about 10 minutes. It all turned out good but we got back to the car REAL late.  At least we had some cold beers waiting for us.  

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Thank you everyone for responding!

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Thanks everyone! We walked in about 11:30 on Saturday. We approached Thin Ice and were the first one on it just as it got covered in shade by 1pm. We did the climb in 2 pitches, rapped into the Charlatan notch and then climbed Spooky in 1 pitch to the top and walked off. We were both so exhausted and I couldn’t figure out why the hiking and climbing felt so strenuous until I realized that we were at 8000 feet elevation. Lol. Forgot about that. Super beautiful place. Can’t wait to go back. Thank you for the advice everyone!

jt newgard · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 415

Thin Ice with Spooky victory lap was one of the finest climbing days I ever had. Just so steep and good. Yes something magical about the place.

Way to go dude !

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Happy you enjoyed the place! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
Post a Reply to "Climbing at the Needles for the first time"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.