Mountain Project Logo

Route to practice taking falls at Smith Rock?

Original Post
Warren Davis · · Bend, OR · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 1

Can anyone recommend a route at Smith that’s good for practicing lead falls? Hallmarks of an ideal candidate are:
- Vertical or overhanging for clean falls
- Bolted 5.9 or easier
- Not a super popular route that commonly has people waiting in line, though wouldn't rule it out if it was. Would just go super early so as not to be a dick

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,738

One problem:  it's not really a "practice" fall if you don't have some backup system like a second / top rope.
It's a real fall, with all the consequences if something goes wrong.

Some clubs used to train belayers by tossing a big weight (sand bag?) out of a tree.
If the belayer failed to stop the fall, no big deal, it's just a sand bag hitting the ground.

Dan Bookless · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 1,940

Vertical / overhanging 5.9s at Smith are prettttty hard to come by.

Fish N Chips is a 5.10c at the top at Shipwreck Gully, it's overhanging.

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

I would definitely recommend getting on something harder than 5.9.  I’m still scared of falling on sub 5.10 at Smith.  Fish & Chips is probably the best option. Toxic, Bloodshot, Feel the Bern, Western Solitude, Pet Semetary, Bucket List, Moons of Pluto (maybe), Headless Horseman, More Sandy than Kevin, Walking While Intoxicated, are other options.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,362

Isn't "practice" falling just falling?

Kelley Gilleran · · Meadow Vista · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,812

Climb hard routes and actually fall off them because you can't physically climb them. Good practice.

Louie Venchurro · · Santa Rosa, CA · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 5

The Phoenix has a great and safe fall. Used it to train my headspace for leading the start of heinous cling

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
Post a Reply to "Route to practice taking falls at Smith Rock?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started