Clear Creek TR solo Anchor Access

I'm looking for walls in Clear Creek with "relatively convenient" anchor access for TR Soloing. I've had luck at the Sports Wall and Punk Rock thus far. Ideally 5.10 -.12 range. A few on the radar are Fiscal Cliff, Monkey house or Funyun? I generally carry a small rack for gear anchors and directionals and have a 50m static line.  So, without giving up your secret spot, anyone have any suggestions?

I would avoid fiscal cliff. The area above the routes looks very loose and you would be kicking debris down onto the bike trail which has a decent bit of pedestrian traffic. The routes are short, if you really want to TR solo them, get a stick clip and aid your way to the anchor.

Convenience cliff is the best option I can think of, anchors can mostly be reached without needing a gear anchor.

The routes on the right side of lower Tiers of Zion could work, but its a popular area. If you do go there, or anywhere else for that matter, make sure there is no one below when setting up, I saw a grapefruit sized rock almost hit a dog when someone was cleaning a TR anchor from above at Tiers of Zion.

I do a lot of TR soloing and I often stick-clip up routes to set the static line.  But there are a few places where you can walk around (which is way faster though sometimes quite sketchy).

I would echo what Alex said about Fiscal... there is no way to walk around and the area above the climbs is very loose with a bike path below you.  As soon as a climber hurts a walker/biker down there, Fiscal will be permanently closed, guaranteed.  Please don't do this.  Stick clip up those routes, or just go with a partner.  And be super careful on Mirror/Planetary-Mirror which hang out over the trail.

You can walk to the top of People's Choice and Nickels and Dimes at High Wire.  Although you can walk to the top of routes on the left (e.g. Everything Rhymes with Orange) it's very loose up there and the base is almost always crowded with climbers.  You can drop a line from the fixed-line anchors around Badgersaurus and rap straight down to the anchor for Groove Town and Pound Town, then rap into the base of those routes easily enough.

You can scramble up a ramp to get on top of Power Trip and Hazardous Waste at Anarchy from the left side.  You can get on top of Anarchitect from the right side.  Be careful there as things are loose and the top isn't that secure.  I usually place a couple of pieces when I'm up there to access the sketchier anchors (like Anarchy in the UK, which is too scary to walk to; I'll place a gear anchor there and rap into the chains there).  The shitty Above All Authority is a one-star 12a you can easily walk to the top of.  It sits atop the main Anarchy Wall.

It's pretty easy to walk to the top of Halloween (5.8) just below Anarchy as well.  The Avid For Adventure guides do this all the time to set TRs for summer camps.

Wannabe wall is crappy climbing but easy to walk to anchors there.

There is a ramp at Capitalist Crag that takes you to the top of Lunch Money, a classic 5.9+.  The MP page for that crag shows the ramp with a red dotted line.

The easiest TR setups in the world are at Convenience Cliff and the WOWWW crag at the Aqueduct where you can just lean over the edge and clip the anchors.  

Also, not in CCC but Dude's Throne has easy an easy hike to the top where you can access most anchors.

Lookout Mountain Crag has easy anchor access as well.

i have done a lot of TRS in the front range, and CCC is probably one of the toughest places to realistically do it.  typically the cliff tops are loose and have not-great anchor situations.  many of the crags (at least most of them with good routes) will have a bunch of people below, which doesn't work well with the loose rock.  a lot of the routes have weird angularities to them such that you should protect your rope from getting chewed up.  a lot of the routes are short, which kind of sucks for TRS.

Upper Tiers of Zion is an ok place.

If you can first lead solo a 5.8, River Wall would be good for a few 10’s and an 11.

E side of Tunnel 1 is quick and very easy to setup. You won't find routes on MP because they are all top rope lines, but there is some alright climbing there that can all be setup from an easy scramble on the right.

Play Pen can be accessed decently easy from the top.

Lookout mountain obviously.

If you can tie a rope around a tree and place a .5 directional,  you can top rope the three routes at Jerusalem - Zion West in addition to 3 fun pannels that you can top rope and are waiting on approval for bolts.

I'd echo Slim's point that I haven't really found anything long enough to justify TR soloing in CCC.  The aqueduct area--at the Floyd Hill bike trails does have longer, steeper routes, and its quiet. Plus, the ride down will be fun.

gumbotron wrote: I'd echo Slim's point that I haven't really found anything long enough to justify TR soloing in CCC.  The aqueduct area--at the Floyd Hill bike trails does have longer, steeper routes, and its quiet. Plus, the ride down will be fun.

While the aqueduct routes are VERY easy to access for TR solo, the only climbs that they are longer than are boulder problems. If that

Find a gym with autobelays. Seriously TRS is almost never worth the faff.

John RB wrote: You can get on top of Anarchitect from the right side.  Be careful there as things are loose and the top isn't that secure. 

I've done this before and will never do it again. I strongly advise against trying it and I think it would be for the best if we let that reputation die out. There is some down climbing (basically reversing a mantel) that is very exposed. And if you bother to place gear to protect the trip to the anchors then you might as well just stick clip aid your way up since it'll be about the same time (plus WAY safer). If you can stick clip the second bolt from the ground you can get to the top at something like 10d A0, and this is the fastest and easiest way up whether or not you've got a partner. 

Mission Wall

Dakota from North Dakota wrote:

While the aqueduct routes are VERY easy to access for TR solo, the only climbs that they are longer than are boulder problems. If that

True for the highest wall with the 12's on it.  But there are other walls just downhill that are much taller and certainly not boulder problems!