COVID-19: At REI, we encourage you to get outside responsibly. Stay local, avoid recreational travel, practice social distancing and check ahead for area and facility closures. Learn More
Mountain Project Logo

Advice please

Original Post
Jack Hancock · · hollister · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Looking for suggestions on my rappel set up. Any advice is welcome and appreciated. 

Kevin Crum · · Oakdale · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 21

Smart folks are going to comment and give you their wise opinion. Im just gonna say as an aside:

That climb is one of the best routes at castle hands down.
Go with a belayer who looks nice and strong so they can carry you out if you botch the boulder problem off the deck (harder than magoo face).

As a standalone set up it looks excellent but If you're going to TR I'd caution against using the tree at this particular climb because 

  1. there are so many hikers that go through the area and it may ruffle some feathers when folks see you using that tree for potential damage
  2. you'd want to be extended over the lip anyway if you're going to tr the route (but seriously the real magic happens on lead you gotta lead this its so beautiful) the more extended it is the better it'll be to belay for you and for the rock (see rock scars from rope)
  3. with the pole closer to the end of the wall you'd get a better placed master point without having to extend as much.  It is also possible to equalize your point when attached to the pole in your picture plus the pole at the lip cut out from the photo's immediate left. 
I know this is not what you asked about at all but I just got so excited to see that old spot again, pardon me I'll probably just delete this later once the smart folks come in.  Happy climbing
Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,209

It's overkill for rappelling. Are you rappelling on the white rope? If so, why didn't you just tie it directly to the tree?

M Mobes · · ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 910

It could hold a schoolbus full of children safely.

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 20,543
Kevin wrote: That climb is one of the best routes at castle hands down. 

I'll second that motion. But did you keep your rope out of the water? (!)

As for the set up - it certainly looks safe...but why the larger (thicker?) slings attached to the smaller (thinner) around the post?  Better ("neater" and perhaps a tiny bit safer) would be two single, longer slings (tubular webbing or 8mm cord) one from the tree one from the post that meet at the same place with a locking biner. (or 2)

Kevin's comment about hikers, rangers and the tree is valid, although the set up you show should not damage it.

What about the larger post that runs at a diagonal through the photo?  I think when I TR-soloed the climb I may have used that, plus the post you show without using the tree.  The sad thing, of course, is with all the roots showing for that tree it probably isn't long for this world. (Roots exposed through multitude of people going there, coupled with the observation deck above cutting sunlight and hence killing ground cover)
Danny Herrera · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 505

Always some major rigging going on this thing. Toss the rope around the front pole and rap down.

Your setup is beautiful tho . Next time just take the double length and tie off the pole with an 8.  One thing I have learned in climbing is that physics is real, those poles ain't going nowhere, that sling is not gonna explode.

Short Fall Sean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5

I like the pole backed up by equalizing to pole equalized with nature pole. 15/10 would whip.

Josh Fengel · · Mariposa, CA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 31

TR solo? Tie a bowline around the pole, up high. Bolt anchor? Bowline on a bight and a couple lockers.
Man.. I miss Castle, haven't been in years

Mike Arechiga · · Oakhurst · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 5,281

Castle rock falls area!

David A · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 410

Oh man. I remember leading that climb with wet shoes from standing in the creek at the bottom, waaaay back when I was a noob. Pretty hairy!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
Post a Reply to "Advice please"

Log In to Reply