COVID-19: At REI, we encourage you to get outside responsibly. Stay local, avoid recreational travel, practice social distancing and check ahead for area and facility closures. Learn More
Mountain Project Logo

Request! Your fave moderate boulder

Original Post
P S · · New England · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 190

A friend once joked I lived under a V4. Well, not anymore, buddy!

So, to soothe my sadness, send me a picture/video of your favorite local moderate, and tell me why you dig it!
Does it have a really gnarly move? Is it heady? Did you project? Did you dry fire? Was it actually 3 feet tall? Did you get a date out of that epic mod send? Do you just like looking at it? Lay your New England bouldering pictures, videos, and stories on me! I need to stay sane in these dark, rockless times. 

Mine: Thee Offwidth, because it took 3 sessions to move an inch, and I’m still not sure I got it right. 

Neil Benson · · Foxboro, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 196

A couple for a couple different reasons:

Peace Dove V3 at Lincoln Woods because I really had to work for it over a few sessions and it was the first outdoor boulder that I'd really describe as a "project" for myself. It was so satisfying to finally send after all the try-hard and skin spent.

Pac-Man V3 at Smuggs because it was my first outdoor V3 and first V3 flash all in one, and it happened on a solo trip up north when I was still getting the hang of bouldering outside, so there was a lot of excitement and uncertainty involved. I met a bunch of cool peeps up there who cheered me on and climbed with me for most of the day, just a moment of supportive camaraderie/community that I've heard people talk about with the New England scene and it was cool to experience that for myself. Also, just one of the coolest-looking problems I've seen so far, and absolutely a regional classic.

Pond Cave Traverse V4 at Lincoln Woods because it's a classic and my current project (once I can go outside again, that is!)

Pond Cave Arete V3 at Lincoln Woods because it was my second V3 flash and it's just a cool local classic (even though there are even better problems right next to it).

I'd recommend these boulders to anyone who is currently climbing or projecting moderate grades and wants something to aspire to once this situation improves and we can get outside again.

No pics readily available, sorry :(

John Goodlander · · Portsmouth, NH · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 455

Bolt on Top and The Whip are great because they make you commit. Overlooked has the coolest moves (and one of the best settings in Pawtuckaway if it's not swarmed with people and/or bugs). Buddha Belly is a lesser travelled moderate at Pawtuckaway, cool moves and decent height.

Ben Molloy · · Keene, NY · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

The Sickness V5, in Snowy Mtn in the Adirondacks. Super cool pinching gets you into a featured RRG esque cave boulder that gives you a power endurance and core intensive “invert optional” cave exit. Unreal.

John L · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 176
Ben Molloy wrote: The Sickness V5, in Snowy Mtn in the Adirondacks. Super cool pinching gets you into a featured RRG esque cave boulder that gives you a power endurance and core intensive “invert optional” cave exit. Unreal.

I don't know where "moderate" ends, but Snowy Mtn has some of the coolest rock in the Adirondacks. +5 billion boner points

Matt Fratus · · Lincoln, RI · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 5

Heart of Glass at Lwood.  Seemed hard for v4 to me, prob because I'm not used to the style.  Really cool line.  

Shamus Gaffney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 50

The Fin at Smuggs is the best moderate in New England. Kalbro at PWay is pretty close.

Neil Benson · · Foxboro, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 196
Shamus Gaffney wrote: The Fin at Smuggs is the best moderate in New England. Kalbro at PWay is pretty close.

Yup, The Fin is siiiiick

Neil Benson · · Foxboro, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 196

If V5 counts as moderate, let's throw in Sleeping Giant at Happy Valley.

Edge · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,390

Lots of good ones at Lincoln Woods.

One of my personal faves, bet you can guess the name if you try really hard.

P S · · New England · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 190
Snowy Mtn has some of the coolest rock in the Adirondacks. +5 billion boner points

I’m woefully ignorant of all things Daks. Where can I find beta? The sickness sounds....sick.

And mad respect to you dudes and/or dudettes for projecting Peace Dove. My palms tingled in sympathy pain from those hand-grating slopers.
Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

Lost Problem, behind the Sit Down at Lincoln Woods.  Best V2 anywhere. Boulder is close behind you but I've never done it with a pad,  out the flat roof to crux topout. Not gym V2 so be warned.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

New problem at Farley, hard 5?  Self Quarantine.

Neil Benson · · Foxboro, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 196
Ward Smith wrote: Lost Problem, behind the Sit Down at Lincoln Woods.  Best V2 anywhere. Boulder is close behind you but I've never done it with a pad,  out the flat roof to crux topout. Not gym V2 so be warned.

This and Dave’s Crank on the same wall, opposite end are both stellar V2s. As long as we’re talking LW, let’s throw the Wave in there as well.

Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,154

Not Nails V2. As the name says, it isn't nails (hard).

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295
Neil Benson wrote:

This and Dave’s Crank on the same wall, opposite end are both stellar V2s. As long as we’re talking LW, let’s throw the Wave in there as well.

Agreed,, Dave's Crank is great, but it is much easier, maybe V1. Not so convinced that The Wave is all that classic, but maybe it's just me.

Neil Benson · · Foxboro, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 196
P S wrote:
I’m woefully ignorant of all things Daks. Where can I find beta? The sickness sounds....sick.

And mad respect to you dudes and/or dudettes for projecting Peace Dove. My palms tingled in sympathy pain from those hand-grating slopers.

There’s a guidebook that has most of the major areas by a guy named Justin (forget his last name) that sold out a while back. You might be able to find a secondhand copy at some point, still looking for one myself. Other than that, I have no idea besides asking locals because the info on MP seems to be pretty lacking.

Dan Knisell · · MA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 3,741

This one is obscure and untraveled but it’s one of my favorites. Amanita v5 at Beaver Brook. Long and pumpy with a hard top out and a good landing.


If you’re talking v2 then a good frustrating one is v2 My Ass. One that always freaks me out but looks stellar is Super Crack in Lincoln Woods.  Overlooked is for sure a classic. Too many to list really. 
Shamus Gaffney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 50
Neil Benson wrote:

There’s a guidebook that has most of the major areas by a guy named Justin (forget his last name) that sold out a while back. You might be able to find a secondhand copy at some point, still looking for one myself. Other than that, I have no idea besides asking locals because the info on MP seems to be pretty lacking.

Adirondack Park Bouldering by Justin Sanford. And as of Dec you could get it at Rock and Snow.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295
Dan Knisell wrote: This one is obscure and untraveled but it’s one of my favorites. Amanita v5 at Beaver Brook. Long and pumpy with a hard top out and a good landing.

If you’re talking v2 then a good frustrating one is v2 My Ass. One that always freaks me out but looks stellar is Super Crack in Lincoln Woods.  Overlooked is for sure a classic. Too many to list really. 

Super Crack, first year bouldering in the 70s I was really stoned (high school you lnow) blasted out of the car and climbed it while my friends were seting up a top rope.  I looked down from the crux to a pointy rock that would have split me apart and somehow clawed through the crux bug eyed with fear.  My friends couldn't do it on.a toprope.  Hands down, dumbest and luckiest moment in my climbing career. 

Neil Benson · · Foxboro, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 196
Shamus Gaffney wrote:

Adirondack Park Bouldering by Justin Sanford. And as of Dec you could get it at Rock and Snow.


They don't have it anymore, I already looked on their website :(

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "Request! Your fave moderate boulder"

Log In to Reply