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Which bolts are good for sandstone(Supercrack) in Indian Creek?

Original Post
Dirtbag Dreams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined 1 day ago · Points: 0

Started climbing about a year ago and I am psyched as all hell. I have been dirtbagging the past six months and had the pleasure of climbing in the creek for the first time in October. I feel in love with the climbing and the beauty of the desert. One climb that sticks out to me the most is supercrack. Ever since I followed a fellow climber I met on the road up that climb I've been dreaming about leading it. Problem is I don't know how to place gear and I don't feel super comfortable doing it. I feel much safer on bolts. So I am going to give back to the community that gave me so much and bolt this route for people like me who are scared of trad climbing but still want to experience the beauty of this desert crack climb. I think it will be better to do it off season so I won't be in the way of other parties, so I plan to bolt it in the next two or three weeks. After doing some research and watching some videos on proper techniques I got myself a drill and some other tools but couldn't find good resources for the right kind of bolts to use on this rock. Any experienced bolters have input on this? Also if you are interested in helping towards this project, I could use some money to procure the remaining hardware. This money will strictly go towards bolting more projects and giving back to the community. Thanks in advance and happy climbing.

PS. I know some old school trad elitists are going to be pissed but I plan to space the bolts in a way that you can still place gear and climb the crack on trad if you prefer that way.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Oh, look, you just joined MP today.

Carolina · · Front Range NC · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 60
Todd Berlier · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

Tradiban, is that you?

0.5/10

Rob Fulton · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 11

Maybe just maybe start out with waiting..... nobody needs to be bolting in their first year.... if this is real you're comically disconnected from the community your reaching out to

Gumby the White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 111

0.5/10 is generous!!!

Rob Fulton · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 11

I want this to be real just so I can hear about how much money this dude sinks into bolting a classic, just to have them all chopped within the week.

Todd Berlier · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0
Gumby the White wrote: 0.5/10 is generous!!!

That's my lowest score for taking the time :)

T M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 42

Glue In Everything Everytime...

Keith Noback · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 640

1/4" star drive. SMC hangers

Charlie S · · Ogden, UT · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,239

Rotary hammer drill: $500
# of bolts to make it "accessible" for 100' of climbing, let's say 1 bolt every 5 feet.  20 bolts.
Best policy is 1/2", 4.75" stainless bolts (longevity, man!), $17 a piece. $340 total
Stainless hangers from Climbtech.  $2.69/piece. $54 total.
Drill bits (you'll need a couple): $20.
Torque wrench to apply the proper torque: $50 (unless you find a deal).

$964, before tax, shipping and handling, etc.

And you say you don't know how to place gear, but somehow you're comfortable with placing bolts (arguably much more strenuous).

I'm with Gumby the White.  0.5/10 out is generous!  Can a troll get negative points?

Tomily ma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 310

What’s your Venmo? I’ll donate to this noble and worthy endeavor!!! Drill some sinker pockets too. I love those!

petzl logic · · Montreal, QC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 15

bolts don’t seem good enough for supercrack. what we should do is put in a TrueBlue auto belay. I bet they’d sponsor it so it wouldn’t cost too much. maybe a little tasteful branding on the wall, like a vinyl billboard.

people would have to respect the climber when the mat is down though, people get so inconsiderate about that.

Gumby the White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 111

Some of those old school 3" bongs would do the trick and be much cheaper

Darren Mabe · · Parks, AZ · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 4,070

10/10!! Nice one. I almost fell for it. 

bob steed · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 60

Nobody uses 3/8" dia bolts anymore.  You need to go with 3/4" dia minimum or 1"dia to really be safe.  

Look how tiny that 3/8" bolt looks next to the others!  Go big.  

tom donnelly · · san diego · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 271

The best community service you could do there is to waterproof the entire crag.  Perhaps Rhino coatings will sponsor you.

Matthew Lee · · San Diego · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 15

-1/10

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,620

You guys know that Burchy started the #/10 thing, right?!

Gumby the White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 111
Tradiban wrote: You guys know that Burchy started the #/10 thing, right?!

RIP

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 121

Dam.
Go ahead. Via Ferrata the thing.
It's worn out anyway.
Supercrack sure looks different from when I climbed it over 30 years ago

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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