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Minor-est of minor gear placement tricks (trad nerds only)

Garry R · · Guelph, ON · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

I often carry 3's and up on a shoulder sling.
It's more comfortable for me, I can reach what I need with either hand, and if it gets in the way I can flip it to the other side.
I realize this is not a gear placement trick.

Kent Pease · · Littleton, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 785

Two more:

  1. Not really a trick, but good practice to live by: Look down as you pass a piece to make sure it's not caught on yourself or gear, and you're not lifting it up/out with the rope. To reduce outward rope tugs on the piece, lift the rope a few inches with your hand near the rock or give it a jiggle to encourage the clipping biner to drop down the rope.
  2. And, everyone’s favorite advice: Avoid placing gear in good jam locations or well-sized spots in the crack.
Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 10

Don’t worry Artem, the naysayers are merely partially right.  As are you.  

Once you become a True master at the art of leading, you just naturally know when and which cams to multi-rack on a single biner, which to pre-extend,  which to leave “as is“ in color coded glory,  and which to have on the right and the left.   

You also know where to clip your ”biner of tricks” which includes a couple RP‘s,  a few ballnutz, a tricam or two, and in winter, Sometimes a rurp and LA...so that it can be reached from either side.  
Basically you know there’s a time and place for nearly every trick in the book and almost all the ones mentioned here....

Nick C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 231

A very minor trick, but if I can spot my first few gear placements from the ground, I'll move those pieces to the front of my harness.

Glen Prior · · Truckee, Ca · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
Zay Ban wrote:

Hi Glen,

I always climb with a few shorty slings like how you describe, for extending gear on certain pieces. I try to never place a quickdraw on a cam, waste of a biner...

But I can't tell if you mean you have those "half draws" already clipped to your cams, while theyre on your harness?

I have them racked next to my quickdraws, and I clip them to cams AFTER placing the cam in thr crack...

But yeah, I like to extend my gear as much as possible. I really don't like my pieces moving around or walking...

Yes. Each cam has a 12 inch sling. Essentially every cam has a 12 inch extension already attached, with a Nano racking 'biner, and a Neutrino rope-end 'biner. I feel that the additional 12 inch extension is a good compromise about 90% of the time, so why not have the cams ready to place and clip? 

If I carry 16 cams, that's 16 half-draws, or the equivalent weight of eight trad draws. That's reduced my carry weight by eight 'biners, and eight slings, over carrying 16 trad draws. Even if it did weigh more, any weight discrepancy is more than compensated for by the quicker placement and rope clipping. I experience a lot less fatigue. 

Brandon R · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 63

This one is sure to ruffle a few feathers, but rack cams with 'biner gates in, with doubled sizes on opposite sides of the harness. True, they don't sit on the harness quite as nice, but when you arrive at a pumpy stance where your right hand is in the only fingerlock and the piece you need is buried on the right side of your harness, it's a whole lot easier to get it off if it's racked gate in. 

Artem Vasilyev · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 105
Brandon R wrote: This one is sure to ruffle a few feathers, but rack cams with 'biner gates in, with doubled sizes on opposite sides of the harness. True, they don't sit on the harness quite as nice, but when you arrive at a pumpy stance where your right hand is in the only fingerlock and the piece you need is buried on the right side of your harness, it's a whole lot easier to get it off if it's racked gate in. 

This is the gospel truth

Brought to you by the gates in gang  
Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 10

Gates out is also a good way to get stuff clipped to your harness in such a way that you don’t want clipped to your harness in that way.....

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 1
Travis S wrote:

Fixed it for ya. 

Right.  When climbing splitters a fall while clipping at your waist will be shorter than clipping overhead, because you can place gear anywhere.  But if you have to place gear in a particular spot (like clipping a bolt), then the fall length is the same whether at your waist or overhead.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 10
JaredG wrote:

Right.  When climbing splitters a fall while clipping at your waist will be shorter than clipping overhead, because you can place gear anywhere.  But if you have to place gear in a particular spot (like clipping a bolt), then the fall length is the same whether at your waist or overhead.

Right.   Except for hexes and ice screws.  Then the fall is similar to clipping at your feet. 

Connor FM · · Burlington, VT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 56
JaredG wrote:

Right.  When climbing splitters a fall while clipping at your waist will be shorter than clipping overhead, because you can place gear anywhere.  But if you have to place gear in a particular spot (like clipping a bolt), then the fall length is the same whether at your waist or overhead.

Clipping from a lower stance means more rope out, since it has to go above your head, through the draw, and then back to you, so if you biff the clip you're falling with more rope out than you would if you clipped the piece/bolt where your harness is.

Patrik · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30
Glen Prior wrote: Here goes... I rack every cam that I'm going to carry, with a short sling and rope-end 'biner. Now that I"m breaking into 5.9-10 leading, I find that I can obviate the need to make a second reach to my harness for a trad draw, then have to clip it to my piece. Coupled with the fact that I find myself extending almost every piece anyway. I do carry a limited set of trad draws and 18" qd's for the stoppers I anticipate using. I climb primarily with my better-half, who isn't leading trad yet. She may or may not prefer this method as she progresses. On the now-rare instance when I might climb with someone else, they won't consider it. I don't question them too closely as to why they won't give it a try, and maybe they've been too polite to call me an idiot.
I started out with BD's nylon slings, and have continued with whatever color-matched slings I could find.
Thought? Negatives?
Can I interest anyone else!?

Next time you resling your cams, maybe consider asking the resling company for "extendable" slings. I find the extendability of the Wild Country style cams not so great. It just doesn't give enough extension (but it might work for where you climb). A different method is to ask for a sling approx 4x longer than you currently have on these cams. Then you can "triple" the sling up (through the thumb loop) as you would with an "alpine draw". A single biner is all you need for such a design. 

The disadvantage is that I don't think there is any biner small enough to fit feeding through the thumb loop, so the "tripling up" for the follower takes some practice. A lazy follower could clip the biner directly to the thumb loop though with a little more "cleaning duty" at the next belay stop.

Daniel Melnyk · · Covina · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 50
Kristian Solem wrote: Have the way you rack your gear, be it harness or sling or both, science'd out. For example stoppers 1-5 on a 'biner, 6-8 on the next, 9&10 on the third.

Who the heck climbs with nuts anymore?

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,696
Daniel Melnyk wrote:

Who the heck climbs with nuts anymore?

Those who are familiar with the sharp end.  :)

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Daniel Melnyk wrote:

Who the heck climbs with nuts anymore?

Those who know how to lead. 

Patrick Normile · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0
Daniel Melnyk wrote:

Who the heck climbs with nuts anymore?

Trad climbers

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10
Daniel Melnyk wrote:

Who the heck climbs with nuts anymore?

Smart people that know how to save weight on their rack.  I also would include Torque nuts.

Garry R · · Guelph, ON · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0
Daniel Melnyk wrote:

Who the heck climbs with nuts anymore?

Pretty sure this is a troll

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,696
Garry R wrote:

Pretty sure this is a troll

If so ... my answer remains the same.  

C Archibolt · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 959
Gunkiemike wrote:

Even more important than the bit about gravity... it's physically impossible for a cam in a horizontal to tip over. So any consideration re. "stability" is BS. Place it the way it best fits and/or takes advantage of little irregularities to hold the lobes. Especially important with small cams.

Toss "wide lobes down" into the trash along with no metal on metal, microfractures, and nylon shelf life.

Even with TCUs? Metolius suggests placing the single lobe up when possible. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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