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Crag with the most accurate grades in your local climbing area?

Original Post
Ma Ja · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 109

I know this subject is completely subjective based on climbing experience, how much you've climbed outside of your home area, and even where you went outside of your local area. But....
What Crag in your local area has the most accurate grades, based on your OPINION?

My thought for this is that it'd be nice to have a reference point in popular areas to compare to when visiting a new area.

Opinions can change over time and through experience, but mine currently...

Red River Gorge
Sandbagged Crag- Chocolate Factory (Bald Rock)
Spot on Crags- Solar Collector/Gold Coast (Coal Bank)
Soft Crag- Solarium (Miur Valley)

(These are "generally" how they feel to me. Theres a few soft and a few sandbagged in the opposite category, if you know what I mean.)

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,936

While it's not in my local area, one would have a real tough time arguing against Tahquitz as the most accurate.

Salamanizer suchoski · · Janesville Ca. · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 5,640

Accurate;  Tahquitz, Yosemite and Smith Rock... there’s a few more.

Soft; Auburn, Luther, Owens gorge.

Sandbagged; Lassen Ntl Park, Needles, anything Johnny Woodward. 

Adam Gallimore · · Sylva · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 15

This is for Western North Carolina:

Sandbagged: Looking Glass Rock

Accurate: Ship Rock

Soft: Rumbling Bald

Kristian Solem · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 390
Gunkiemike wrote: While it's not in my local area, one would have a real tough time arguing against Tahquitz as the most accurate.

Yeah, it's hard to argue with the place it all started.

Uber soft grades: Red Rocks.

I was hangng out in HVCC one time, and two guys walk up and ask me if I'm familiar with the routes around here.

"We're looking for some easy twelves."

An oxymoron for sure in Josh. I suggested maybe they start on the left ski track and see how it goes.

"But that's not a twelve."

I suggested they hit up Hot Rocks and see how that goes.

"But that's only .11c."

"How about Leave it to Beaver?"

"We heard that thing's a sandbag."

"How about Red Rocks?"
Mike Stephan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 430

Stoney Point, CA.

JTNP is also good, but I find it inconsistent.  Perhaps this is due to the sheer volume of climbs (both new and old) in the area.

Zach Harrison · · Flagstaff · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 1,456

Whatever crag is the newest has the softest grades, unless the FAist understand grade creep, climb old routes to recalibrate and have a healthy amount of self disrespect. Old ratings aren’t sandbags, they are accurate.

Artem Vasilyev · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 105
Zach Harrison wrote: Whatever crag is the newest has the softest grades, unless the FAist understand grade creep, climb old routes to recalibrate and have a healthy amount of self disrespect. Old ratings aren’t sandbags, they are accurate.

I am now suddenly dying to suggest you a few routes in order dismantle your world view on grades and what it is that you can climb.

I.e. highly beta and hidden hold specific basalt and tuff routes. Old school mentality seems to suggest some pretty sandbagged, I have the beta wired, grades for these routes lol. 

Tal Wanish · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 91

I still haven't gotten out to Eldo so I'd say South Platte is probably the most accurate in terms of grading in the Denver area. Even some of the newer routes still keep the old fashioned grading style. Really speaks to the consistency of the developers in the area.

Todd Berlier · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0
Salamanizer suchoski wrote: Accurate;  Tahquitz, Yosemite and Smith Rock... there’s a few more.

Soft; Auburn, Luther, Owens gorge.

Sandbagged; Lassen Ntl Park, Needles, anything Jonny Woodward.

FTFY :)

Ivan Cross · · Flagstaff · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 162

If you can do it, it's 5.8. If you cant do it it's 5.12. End of story.

Ma Ja · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 109

Any NRGers out there?

J T · · Anywhere dry · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
Ma Ja wrote: Any NRGers out there?

RRG: soft grades

NRG: not soft grades

J Verg · · Idyllwild, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 80
Gunkiemike wrote: While it's not in my local area, one would have a real tough time arguing against Tahquitz as the most accurate.

This. It’s the logical answer. 

Farzin · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 0

Any crag that use the most digits and scientific notation would be the most accurate.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,394

thinkin? oH;' never mind,  kinda' a masturbatory pursuit -

Considering that all grading of rock climbing is relative /subjective

& very dependant on the individual strengths & weaknesses of the people doing the climbing.
As well as  who & when the grade was given to whichever variation was climbed at the time.
 It also matters whether or not that the eventual graded line, is the same as the variation now climbed& given the grade.
 (which is still a different line from how it was originally accended, especially with certain types of rock  like ~"Kitty-Litter-quality"~"Monzonite"  )

You really do not understand what the number grades mean in relation to climbing . . . .
They are meant to give one a rough idea as to the comparative difficulty of the climbing based on a comparative, amorphous & ephemeral changing scale.

& in the big picture ~ you are completely missing the point  . . .

Enjoy the journey  .  .  .

& Chris Duca Said
Stoney Ridge  in Pennciletucky!  is it legal >Again>? . <<*>>> Re-Open/Free That Black Ridge!  (I need to get a scanner)

Chris Duca · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,095

Spiders’ Web, NY—accurate
Index, WA—stout
Stoney Ridge, PA—stout
Exit 38(Nevermind Wall), WA—soft

James W · · Texas · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 94

"Red Rock is the most accurate", says my fragile ego.

jessie briggs · · van down by the river · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 442

Acadia:soft
NoCo: accurate
Whitehorse:terrifying

Tradgic Yogurt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 55

A few months ago, I overheard a gumbie at Movement talking about how a V4 on the Warmup wall at Hueco, over on East Mountain, was really hard for the grade...

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115
James W wrote: "Red Rock is the most accurate", says my fragile ego.

Red rock from 1986 is pretty hard

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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