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Best Linville First Multi Pitch?

Adam Gallimore · · Sylva · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 15

I second climbing at table rock. Some of my favorite climbs are there. One I haven't seen mentioned is Cornsnake Crack. It's a really fun 5.7+. The first pitch is bolted with a bolted anchor and the second pitch is a really fun crack climb up to a bolted anchor. Tricams and TCUs are bomber on this route.

Another good route is Slippin' Into Darkness towards the middle of TR. While it is a 5.9, the grade is pretty soft. The gear is super bomber the whole way with a fun crack move at the top. 

Joel M · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 5

Just wanted to throw in that you should definitely not do Built to Tilt for your first multipitch climb. It's a fantastic route but would be a really bad idea to choose as a first multipitch due to route finding, overall difficulty, and the objective hazard of a potential core shot if your second falls on the roof.

Artem Vasilyev · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 105
Joel M wrote: Just wanted to throw in that you should definitely not do Built to Tilt for your first multipitch climb. It's a fantastic route but would be a really bad idea to choose as a first multipitch due to route finding, overall difficulty, and the objective hazard of a potential core shot if your second falls on the roof.

All of which will serve to put some hair on your chest.

Kidding aside, I say it's a good idea if you have an experienced partner, or are well read on your systems (and want to use them), and have the strength/confidence to climb the route. I wouldn't recommend it to a weak new trad multipitch leader, but I also wouldn't not recommend it to a strong new trad multipitch leader, if that makes sense.

Also, my second fell over and over on that roof when I climbed it a couple of years back - no damage or wear to the sheath of my rope. There isn't much of anything for it to get caught on or saw onto. Route finding is about standard for what you get at shortoff imo. Nothing crazy. The route is mostly 5.8/5.9 with 2 moves of easy easy 5.10a buckets, and with excellent exposure.

It's not my first recommendation, but if the person I'm talking to is a solid climber, I say they should do it, enjoy the route, and not get suckered by the online fear and/or number attached to the route. The internet can be bad about that. But I also don't fault people for thinking I am a crazy person who is recklessly sandbagging people into epics.
Joel M · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 5

I hear you, Artem. If someone is cranking 5.12/12+ sport routes and they are good at building anchors, it might be reasonable.
However, when I did it, my second fell on the roof (pretty early I think), and our rope (9.6 mm Edelrid Tommy Caldwell rope) got coreshot. I had a directional a few feet over the lip, directly in line with the route, and I also built my anchor right over the line. My second ended up dangling in midair and I had to haul them up on a 3:1 for 5+ feet until they could reach the jugs over the lip. I think that with roofs, there is usually at least some danger of rope damage if the second falls, especially on that Linville quartzite.

nbrown · · WNC/Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,000
Brian Abram wrote:Third day outside: got lost on the first pitch of New Diversions at Whiteside and came close to getting hurt.

Damn Brian... talk about upping the ante! Took me years, probably a decade, before I ever made it out to Whiteside.

Brian Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 483
nbrown wrote: 

Damn Brian... talk about upping the ante! Took me years, probably a decade, before I ever made it out to Whiteside.

Yeah, we pored over the Kelley guidebook and got convinced we could link together a 5.10 path to the top. We had little concept of blank rock and were convinced we could find some way to protect things reasonably. We were as dumb as any gumbies you can imagine, and things could have turned out badly. We had a long talk afterwards about how dangerous this thing was and if it was worth it

Shane Rosanbalm · · Chapel Hill, NC · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 226

Once you've visited Table and are ready for the adventures of Amphitheater and Shortoff, be sure to get the Avenza app on your phone and download the free Linville Gorge Wilderness map. (https://www.avenzamaps.com/maps/905411/linville-gorge-wilderness)
This was an invaluable resource for me on my first trip to both Amphitheater and Shortoff. It only relies on GPS, not cell data, so you don't have to worry as much about losing signal.

Johnathan C · · Missouri · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 85

I suppose I could start my own thread on this but could anyone here who has climbed at the Amphitheater give me some thoughts on how windy it is? We're thinking of going tomorrow. It'll be cold, of course, and we'll dress for it but if it's very windy there, we might just call it and wait for warmer weather instead. 

My Cal At Last · · charlotte, nc · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 5

John, weather should be perfect ar bald and sauratown  tomorrow.  Ampithrea might be chilly but should be dry.  What routes?

Johnathan C · · Missouri · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 85
My Cal At Last wrote: John, weather should be perfect ar bald and sauratown  tomorrow.  Ampithrea might be chilly but should be dry.  What routes?

Thanks for the beta. The classic Mummy, Daddy, Prow routes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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