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Yosemite Guidebook now available as pdf

Erik Sloan · · El Portal, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 154

Omg so good in the Valley right.....Get Down Here!

Gumby King · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25
Erik Sloan wrote: Omg so good in the Valley right.....Get Down Here!

But if we're on the walls why would we want to come down to the valley?

Erik Sloan · · El Portal, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 154

Extended forecast looking amazing! Who's getting after it?

Christopher K. · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 175

One of, if not the best guidebooks I’ve seen. Well done and congrats. I wasted about 3 hours staring at it yesterday and only got a fraction of the way through it.

Erik Sloan · · El Portal, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 154

We're laying out the new bigwall book now, and I want to rework the two page Valley map that we had in the first edition, but need some help. The original used lidar data to make an accurate map of the Valley, but the coloring of the map was bold, dark colors that did not represent the cliffs well and made the map hard to read for beginners. What I'd like to do is take out the background picture and just have someone draw in, artistically, El Cap, Half Dome, etc........anyone up for this? cud be super simple just a line outline of a cliff where each formation is (easy for me to say, I can't draw anything other than stick figures, haha)

Todd Martin · · Costa Mesa · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 60
Erik Sloan wrote: We're laying out the new bigwall book now, and I want to rework the two page Valley map that we had in the first edition, but need some help. The original used lidar data to make an accurate map of the Valley, but the coloring of the map was bold, dark colors that did not represent the cliffs well and made the map hard to read for beginners. What I'd like to do is take out the background picture and just have someone draw in, artistically, El Cap, Half Dome, etc........anyone up for this? cud be super simple just a line outline of a cliff where each formation is (easy for me to say, I can't draw anything other than stick figures, haha)

I have a buddy who is an artist and does stuff like what you are asking about. I'll forward this to him and see if he's interested and/or has the time.

Blurie . · · San Diego, Ca · Joined May 2016 · Points: 5

best $5 ever spent?

Erik Sloan · · El Portal, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 154

Hey Thanks! Only $5 till Mar 1st then $9.99, so spread the word!.....for those waiting for the 2nd edition of Yosemite Bigwalls:The Complete Guide we'er getting close....hoping to launch the presale pdf Feb 16!

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5
G1nj3r wrote:

Without arguing about Erik's ethics or if he's a good guy or not. Honestly I don't like plenty of things he's done either, but I apricate others. I was just hoping we could leave this thread as a guidebook related thread. He's trying to get his book out, one of many things he has contributed to the community (along with replacing hundreds of quarter inchers and rivets with ASCA hardware). 

I appreciate the good things he has done, his guidebook efforts, and the stoke he brings. But he’s the one who disparaged other people and suggested they were unethical for not sharing their information, so if he’s going to do that I’m going to call him out for doing things most in the community considers unethical. I will keep posting because it feel I have a responsibility to help uphold the ethics I learned from my heroes because they are not so obvious and could be lost if we don’t defend them. It unfathomable to me that someone so into climbing that they write guidebooks doesn’t understand basic climbing ethics or thinks they know better than so many who came before him. 

Marcus McCoy · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Fine, I will finally buy your book you snake, but really only because those other losers are taking their time and then some. Not that I blame them, but it is what it is. 

Erik Sloan · · El Portal, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 154

Glowering - you should become a climbing historian, cause I think your heroes would stop shining as brightly as they do in your heart, lol. Climbing, like the US, has been a 'do whatever the fuck you want and then tell other people how they should or shouldn't do it,' kind of activity. That's unfortunate, and the wearable resources of our climbing areas suffer for that lack of vision, that lack of commitment to future generations.....sure it's hard to see things change, but it's better than rusting away in an ever dwindling group of preachers.

It's totally insane that people are buying the Don Reid 1984 guidebook on ebay for $50 - $100, While D and his partners (Ed Hartouni, Clint Cummings, and Eric Gabel) could put out an updated pdf with thousands of more routes (and a few corrections, haha) in a couple days....huh? Like information about your public lands is being kept from you (these guys, not Don Reid who is upstanding, contacted first ascentionists and told them not to share their information with me, because their book was about to come out, in 2015......whoa it's 2020 and they've been at it since '06!)?....oh yeah I'm being super rude and unethical

Bill Schick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0
Erik Sloan wrote: thousands of more routes...

Lol - sounds like bullshit to me.  I say call your book comprehensive and complete until proven otherwise.

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,223
Erik Sloan wrote:... It's totally insane that people are buying the Don Reid 1984 guidebook on ebay for $50 - $100, ...

The Don Reid guidebook is 1994 (not 1984), and it's a better guidebook than yours will ever be.

It has 1536 climbs.  Yours has 765?

It does not cost $50 - $100.  The first 10 (used) copies on amazon.com right now are $15 - $20, including shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0934641595/ref=tmm_pap_used_olp_sr?ie=UTF8&condition=used&qid=1581882599&sr=1-1

I always recommend that people buy the Reid 1994 guidebook if they ask.

I agree it is frustrating that the Gabel, et al book is not out yet.
But I'm not sure why you are complaining.
When it comes out, the demand for your book will be zero.  (Assuming both are in color and the prices are comparable).
Enjoy it while you can.

P.S. I do not enjoy making a post with a negative tone like this one.
And I have been trying to avoid bumping this thread.
But I also dislike Erik's misinformation on the Reid guidebook.
Bill Schick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0
Clint Cummins wrote:

It has 1536 climbs. 

Lol - of which only half were ever located and thus proven to exist, and half again were found to be worth climbing.  

What I see is that Erik has thus doubled - at least - the # well documented routes worth climbing.

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,223
Bill Schick wrote:

Lol - of which only half were ever located and thus proven to exist, ...

Hmm.  Could you be more specific about the 768 (1536/2) routes in the Reid guidebook that you were unable to locate?    

I've never had a problem finding 99% of the routes.

A couple of weekends ago, we saw people at Parkline Slab trying to find routes with the Sloan book.
It was kinda sad.  We helped them out.
Max Sellars · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0


I get this on 3 different browsers with Adblock turned off
Erik Sloan · · El Portal, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 154

Sorry Max, don't know that error is about. I will look into it! (an order just went through so it is working, albeit not ideally....I have to work in a few so will have to fix tomorrow, sorry)

Awesome post Clint....Hope you guys release your book tomorrow!

M Mobes · · ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 910
Clint Cummins wrote:

The Don Reid guidebook is 1994 (not 1984), and it's a better guidebook than yours will ever be.

It has 1536 climbs.  Yours has 765?

It does not cost $50 - $100.  The first 10 (used) copies on amazon.com right now are $15 - $20, including shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0934641595/ref=tmm_pap_used_olp_sr?ie=UTF8&condition=used&qid=1581882599&sr=1-1

I always recommend that people buy the Reid 1994 guidebook if they ask.

I agree it is frustrating that the Gabel, et al book is not out yet.
But I'm not sure why you are complaining.
When it comes out, the demand for your book will be zero.  (Assuming both are in color and the prices are comparable).
Enjoy it while you can.

P.S. I do not enjoy making a post with a negative tone like this one.
And I have been trying to avoid bumping this thread.
But I also dislike Erik's misinformation on the Reid guidebook.

I dont enjoy shooting people in the face but sometimes you have to do it, no doubt.

K Weber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 15
Clint Cummins wrote:

The Don Reid guidebook is 1994 (not 1984), and it's a better guidebook than yours will ever be.

It has 1536 climbs.  Yours has 765?

It does not cost $50 - $100.  The first 10 (used) copies on amazon.com right now are $15 - $20, including shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0934641595/ref=tmm_pap_used_olp_sr?ie=UTF8&condition=used&qid=1581882599&sr=1-1

I always recommend that people buy the Reid 1994 guidebook if they ask.

I agree it is frustrating that the Gabel, et al book is not out yet.
But I'm not sure why you are complaining.
When it comes out, the demand for your book will be zero.  (Assuming both are in color and the prices are comparable).
Enjoy it while you can.

P.S. I do not enjoy making a post with a negative tone like this one.
And I have been trying to avoid bumping this thread.
But I also dislike Erik's misinformation on the Reid guidebook.

The D measuring continues.  Sounds just like the bolt wars of the 80s.  "I'm better" "No, I am" "You can't,  you're a POS"


Soon someone will shit on another's gear (Steve Schneider)  or punch someone in the face.

Clint, that Parkline story is 100% BS.  Falls flat on its face hard.
Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,223
K Weber wrote:

The D measuring continues.  Sounds just like the bolt wars of the 80s.  "I'm better" "No, I am" "You can't,  you're a POS"


Soon someone will shit on another's gear (Steve Schneider)  or punch someone in the face.
Hmm, correcting a date error by 10 years and a price error by a factor of 5x is D measuring?

Clint, that Parkline story is 100% BS.  Falls flat on its face hard.
I guess you should have been there to see for yourself?  I do have my partner as a witness!

Really:  we were climbing a route to the right of Secret Agent Dward,
and these two guys traversed below us, east to west.
I have never seen anyone hike in from that side.
So we think they must have parked further east, like below Narrow Escape.
And yes, they were carrying that thick hardbound guidebook....

A problem with the Sloan guide to Parkline is that each topo reads left to right,
but the topos for the crag are ordered right to left.
So when you turn the page, you don't get the next routes to the right.
It breaks all the continuity.
The Supertopo Sport guide made the same mistake.
The Sloan guide extends this discontinuity problem to the entire Valley,
because the crags are in counterclockwise order.

Although there are probably people who will get lost even with an improved guide....   
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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