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Acopa Merlins initial impressions.

Men Boon · · East B'jesus · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Baton Rouge doesn't have levees so what the hell do you climb?!  New Orleanian here btw, grew up in the river bend.

Layne Zuelke · · Baton Rouge, LA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 30
Men Boon wrote: Baton Rouge doesn't have levees so what the hell do you climb?!  New Orleanian here btw, grew up in the river bend.

Forced for 30 years to make the trip to Austin/enchanted rock or northeast to Little River Canyon/SandRock and Chattanooga. Or the wall in my backyard.

Matthew R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

So it’s been a couple weeks since I first got these shoes and thought I should give an update. I love them. As I mentioned in my post up thread, I downsize a bit so there was a break in period of around a week and a half. They feel great now and I can leave them on for hours at a time. No matter where I place my feet on a climb I have zero concern about them slipping off.  The rubber is a bit thicker than other shoes I’ve worn and that took me a while to get used to. I had to learn to trust the shoe instead of trying to feel where they were going to slip out from under me, they just don’t. Heel hooking took a short while to get used to since I’ve been mostly wearing La Sportiva Solutions lately. With the solutions I could be a bit lazy with my heel hook placement, but, after a few mental corrections, I was able to make the Merlins work just as well in almost every situation (the one exception being when I need to set a horizontal heel hook in a jug on a roof, and, even then, the Merlins would hold it, they just weren’t as comfortable in that specific circumstance as the Solutions).  I haven’t had the opportunity to do much with aggressive toe hooking, but the couple of times I’ve needed to snag a bit of friction with the toe to improve my position, the shoes have performed more than adequately. My previous concerns about achilles area irritation were purely user error as I was allowing a little bit of excess leather that rises above the heel rubber to fold into the shoe. Once I noticed this and started taking a quick look at the back of the shoe before lacing up it hasn’t been an issue. I have noticed that the edges of the lining, where they end at the opening of the shoe, have begun to fray a little, but this appears to be completely superficial and has caused no issues with comfort or performance. It also doesn’t seem to occur anywhere else in the lining. Overall, I am completely satisfied with my purchase, and seriously considering ordering another pair.  Thanks Acopa for making a great shoe. 

Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 122
Matthew R wrote: So it’s been a couple weeks since I first got these shoes and thought I should give an update. I love them. As I mentioned in my post up thread, I downsize a bit so there was a break in period of around a week and a half. They feel great now and I can leave them on for hours at a time. No matter where I place my feet on a climb I have zero concern about them slipping off.  The rubber is a bit thicker than other shoes I’ve worn and that took me a while to get used to. I had to learn to trust the shoe instead of trying to feel where they were going to slip out from under me, they just don’t. Heel hooking took a short while to get used to since I’ve been mostly wearing La Sportiva Solutions lately. With the solutions I could be a bit lazy with my heel hook placement, but, after a few mental corrections, I was able to make the Merlins work just as well in almost every situation (the one exception being when I need to set a horizontal heel hook in a jug on a roof, and, even then, the Merlins would hold it, they just weren’t as comfortable in that specific circumstance as the Solutions).  I haven’t had the opportunity to do much with aggressive toe hooking, but the couple of times I’ve needed to snag a bit of friction with the toe to improve my position, the shoes have performed more than adequately. My previous concerns about achilles area irritation were purely user error as I was allowing a little bit of excess leather that rises above the heel rubber to fold into the shoe. Once I noticed this and started taking a quick look at the back of the shoe before lacing up it hasn’t been an issue. I have noticed that the edges of the lining, where they end at the opening of the shoe, have begun to fray a little, but this appears to be completely superficial and has caused no issues with comfort or performance. It also doesn’t seem to occur anywhere else in the lining. Overall, I am completely satisfied with my purchase, and seriously considering ordering another pair.  Thanks Acopa for making a great shoe. 

And to add on- i suggest sizing 1/2 size down from street size if you're climbing .12 and up or looking for performance. They do stretch...

Dario Piana · · Guadalajara, Jalisco · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 10

Thank you all for your feedback! We are listening and we are always working to make better shoes for you!

Layne Zuelke · · Baton Rouge, LA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 30

I've had the same impressions with the rubber. They just don't slip. Once my foot is placed I now just forget about it. Stuff is damn good!!!

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 926

My first time trying the Merlins they didn’t quite fit so I went with the Acopa Spectres, if anyone wants any info on those I wrote a review Here.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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