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Harness

John Clark · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 707

My own two cents based on harnesses I have used:
Petzl Adjama:
-you will bruise with more than a light trad rack
-I used it on RNWF of half dome, massive bruises.
-small gear loops
-good gym harness
-good sport harness
-cheap
-not comfy for even semi-hanging belays

Misty Mountain Cadillac
-comfy af
-the extra gear loops are good for walls and beginner trad when you feel the need to bring the kitchen sink
-it is pretty heavy, but not you still have a good range of motion and your rack will weight more
-takes a beating (I've put over 1000 granite and sandstone pitches on mine in the last 2.5 years)
-it's nice as a beginner when you aren't as dialed on light and fast systems

Edelrid Ace Ambassador
-super comfortable
-roomy gear loops
-cool color
-light as all get out
-holds the nose record
-I use this for lightning fast climbs and projecting/hard onsighting
-starts to droop a little past a double rack to 4

BD Momentum
-jk, just don't

Pierre Proulx · · Montreal, Quebec, CA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10
Jeremy S wrote:

Yeah that was my understanding too, but I was let down. held them side by side with a BD Momentum harness and saw no difference. The 5th loop in the back is nice, and there's a small "0kN" loop for a chalk bag, but the main loops are plain ol'.

thanks for the feedback.

Disapointing cause I love my Solution,  but it's just not roomy enough for trad/multipitch and was hoping the guide would offer a good alternative.  Looks like they focus more on the material durability than loading capacity.  Damn, need to look elsewhere for a multipitch harness then.

Scott M. McNamara · · Presidio San Augustine Del… · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55

The best harness is the one that fits.

"If it does not fit, then don't commit."

I think you should hang in a harness before you buy it.

Hang in several of these recommended harnesses and then make your choice.

Most climbing shops will be happy to let you try them out.

Mark Frumkin · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 51

The best harness I have ever had was a Yates. I've had a couple of BD they were ok. I use a metolius now & have for several years, I think I'm on my third one now. I like it only because it fits me well and it has never hurt me in a fall.
I like Scott's idea, go hang in them.

Mike Palasek · · Columbus, OH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

Singing Rock Dome harness.
Comfort *****
Super big gear loops *****
Inexpensive *****
Saw a rigger/camera person from 'Free Solo' wearing one.
My favorite trad harness in 45 years.

Shane Noble · · Portland, Maine · Joined May 2013 · Points: 25

My girlfriend just got the Solution guide today...looks badass. Material seems bomber, the gear loops are pretty slick and she said it was quite comfortable. Obviously haven’t put it through a “hanging belay” test yet, but I’ve never been in a harness that made a hanging belay very comfortable anyway.

I’ve been wearing the previous version, the chaos, for years and love it. I would only suspect BD made the current iteration even better. 

z sweep · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 30

Im curious about the bd technician. It has 5 gear loops, 4 ice clippers, adjustable leg loops, and possibly bigger gear loops than the guide. Thinking it may have to be my do everything 

Ryan SD · · Rapid City, SD / Reno, NV · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Also a fan of the Adjama. I also have a solution for sport climbing, but I don't think I've touched it since I picked up the adjama. Maybe a couple times for gym sessions but that's about it. Now that I think of it, I am not even sure where it is....somewhere in the garage I guess.

The adjama is cheap, flexible, has a ton of room for gear, and comfy IMO. I also like the slanted gear loop, although my partner has said they didn't like it. Keep my gear in front and ready to grab.

Edit: the one thing that I don't like about the adjama is the leg loops....they don't go small enough to fit my chicken legs, and i tend to like non-adjustable leg loops. 

J D · · SC · Joined May 2017 · Points: 20

The adjama was a disappointment in the area of leg loops imo. When in a hanging belay, or when belaying someone who may hang dog, the loops creep into my  crotch more than I'd like. Although I do have fairly slender upper legs.

It's never mentioned in these discussions but my go to for trad racks is my DMM Viper 2. 5 loops with good room and it has a floating belt for making things even. I really like the floating belt. It solves another issue the adjama has. It's lighter weight than harnesses like the Cadillac but is big enough to comfortable and handle heavy racking. The only thing I wish was different is that the 5th gear loop connects low on the belt line whereas others, like the adjama, have the 5th loop connected towards the top. Minor I reckon. 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Ryan SD wrote: Also a fan of the Adjama. I also have a solution for sport climbing, but I don't think I've touched it since I picked up the adjama. Maybe a couple times for gym sessions but that's about it. Now that I think of it, I am not even sure where it is....somewhere in the garage I guess.

The adjama is cheap, flexible, has a ton of room for gear, and comfy IMO. I also like the slanted gear loop, although my partner has said they didn't like it. Keep my gear in front and ready to grab.

Edit: the one thing that I don't like about the adjama is the leg loops....they don't go small enough to fit my chicken legs, and i tend to like non-adjustable leg loops. 

The Sama is the same harness without the leg buckles. I have one, like the fit, don't like it for trad at all. The rear gear loops are moronic.

Ted Raven · · Squamish, BC · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 155

Arcteryx harnesses are worth every penny.

Allen R · · Daytona Beach, FL · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0
Ted Raven wrote: Arcteryx harnesses are worth every penny.

I second this. Huge gear loops super comfy and some good covid-19 deals happening right now 

Ronan P · · Athens, GA · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 0

I currently use an Arc’teryx harness and I was pretty concerned because there was no padding but I’ve owned it for 4 months now and il have to say I’m in love yea it does cost a lot but usually harnesses last a long time unless you’re high-lineing. Yea it’s expensive but the comfort and adjustability on the Arc’teryx harness is unreal literally everything is adjustable including the space between the belay leg loop like it’s in real how comfortable this is. It’s 25% off at Arc’teryx try it use it don’t like it return it but I highly doubt you will. Hands down best all around harness period And it’s a harness that will grow with you. For example if you want to get into ice climbing it will do it it’s got all of it built in. I’m a one and done kinda guy buy once don’t buy till it’s shot. It’s worth it send it bro.

Eric F · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0

I bought a solution guide recently and am really enjoying it fwiw

Chris Topher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 5

I use the dead bird harness, AR version. Great harness and quite durable, just get it on sale as some point. Someone pointed it out as being trendy, however I hardly see anyone climbing in them. The company started out making harneses and they are great.

Garry R · · Guelph, ON · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0
Pierre Proulx wrote:

thanks for the feedback.

Disapointing cause I love my Solution,  but it's just not roomy enough for trad/multipitch and was hoping the guide would offer a good alternative.  Looks like they focus more on the material durability than loading capacity.  Damn, need to look elsewhere for a multipitch harness then.

I too liked my Solution and just ordered the Guide. It sure looks like the Guide has bigger front loops than the regular Solution...

Pierre Proulx · · Montreal, Quebec, CA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10
Garry R wrote:

I too liked my Solution and just ordered the Guide. It sure looks like the Guide has bigger front loops than the regular Solution...

I would agree from the pictures too, but the feedback receive was that is wasn't the case. 

Any chance I could convince you to post side-by-side pictures with dimensions/reference when you get the Guide? 

Garry R · · Guelph, ON · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

Will do

Chris Fedorczak · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0
Pierre Proulx wrote:

I would agree from the pictures too, but the feedback receive was that is wasn't the case. 

Any chance I could convince you to post side-by-side pictures with dimensions/reference when you get the Guide? 

Also curious. I thought they were the same size... unfortunately.

Eric F · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0
Pierre Proulx wrote:

I would agree from the pictures too, but the feedback receive was that is wasn't the case. 

I’ve looked at my guide next to the regular solution, and although it’s not a massive difference, the guide’s front gear loops are clearly bigger/longer. Tbh if you think they’re the same size then you’re blind
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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