Rock fall, Jah Man, Sister Superior

Meanwhile, Sedona is like, "hold my beer"..

Moffatt P wrote: If anyone finds a Kershaw pocket knife and my brand new blue DMM Revolver I'd be stoked to get it back!!

They both fell victim to the backside of the flake.  One on the ascent and one on the descent.

I haven't even thought about all the potential booty to snag! Thanks for the heads up! 

Karl kelley wrote: Hmmm.
Lets see... Greg Child was the first to report this? Smart $$$ says he already got the FA of the new 1st pitch!!!.

Not sure why the first assent guy would be coming from boulder as moab seems closer with many fine motivated climbers. I guess we will see !!!!

deathzonescience wrote: https://www.instagram.com/p/B4xWp9lnsB0/?igshid=zsygzuixdyc

This may be the very last video footage of P chimney?  Glad to have climbed it, was only party on route that day in November.  

My observation over the years is that towers have fallen out of favor.  Likely due to longer approaches and fewer audiences to spray down and flex for.  

Sam Stuckey wrote: Damn it... why couldn’t it have been Ancient Art? :(

You just reminded me to climb Ancient Art for the sixth time.

mike1 wrote: Not sure why the first assent guy would be coming from boulder as moab seems closer with many fine motivated climbers. I guess we will see !!!!

I once saw an ad on a bulletin board of a guy offering "climing" instruction.

Not very assuring,..

The new route should be called "Jahless Man"

The popcorn commentary is so good I almost don’t want to say anything

I think what Gaar is not saying is that there is now a new route to the first anchor. 

Greg Child wrote: I think what Gaar is not saying is that there is now a new route to the first anchor. 

pics?

So does she still go or what!???! Surely someone has been up to find out?! I seem to remember some sort of finger crack of sorts against that back wall??..

Unfortunate, from the pics it's going to lose a star or two. I have fond memories of topping out in a snow storm complete with thunder and lightning.

Good thing that'll never happen to Texas Flake...

Today in the Moab Sun News.

http://www.moabsunnews.com/news/article_92397d3c-3892-11ea-828f-57be471081d7.html?fbclid=IwAR1qgaCnv3n1bqtsnF6sba0e4ZlSuU4QSLzzN8HXQhnYdsgyH9zrvLJK7GE

Jah Man Start.The 2nd pitch Traverse (ends at shallow dihedrals left of skyline).Sister Superior Tower Status Update:On Wednesday, January 15th 2020 a party 4 climbers gained access to an existing anchor that was previously gained (prior to the recent geologic event) by ascending the initial chimney pitch of the route Jah Man- approximately 100' above the base of the tower.
Access to the anchor was gained by climbing the 10-20' that remains of the original start to the route Jah Man and continuing up a right to left angling ramp to gain a bedding seam that was hand traversed from left to right for approximately 10 feet to gain the left of two crack systems. The left of the two crack systems was followed up to an area comprised of ledges where the two crack systems converge and where a directional protection bolt was placed. About 8' to the right of the directional protection bolt a fixed anchor was established at a ledge. This anchor was the end of the initial pitch (5.10/ ~75'/ dangerous/ hazardous/ poor rock quality/ bad rope line/ rope drag).
From the anchor a second pitch was climbed via direct aid beginning with a horizontal left to right crack (1-3") traverse of approximately 30' to a finger crack that ascends ~30' to the pre-existing Jah-Man anchor (C-2 60ish feet/ good rock and protection).
The horizontal traverse of the second pitch was free climbed on top rope without falling from left to right at 5.11.
The 2nd half of the 2nd pitch (from the end of the horizontal traverse to the pre-existing anchor) was free climbed on top rope with out falling at 5.12.

Observations:

The tower base area between the Jah Man and Nuns With Guns routes is unstable and actively settling. Spontaneous rock sliding in the impact area is occurring and continuing over the 50' rock band below the base.

The 10-20' at the beginning of the start of Jah Man that remains appears to have shifted during the rock fall and may be unstable.

A major portion of the south terminus of the tower is fractured and has serac-like features that appear potentially unstable. There are spontaneous and sporadic sand spin drifts propagating from the fractures in this area indicating movement.

The right of the two crack systems above the start of Jah Man looks like it could be stabilized and cleaned of dirt and debris at some point and become the most likely and highest quality route to the added 1st pitch anchors.

The first pitch (5.10+) of Nuns With Guns is gone with the the flake that fell. The second pitch (5.12) is in limbo above the anchor that had been accessed from the upper right side of the flake.

The calcite face that was behind the flake is not featured in way that is conducive to free climbing.

Be careful out there.

Hey guys I red tagged that wall so back off!!

Thanks Mark, I was getting bombarded! Personally I still believe this to be a five star route, with now a two star approach pitch. The traverse will keep most novice climbers at bay, even though Falls would be clean. Build a hanging belay (2x .75) on a 3 inch ledge at the end of the traverse. The 5.12 calcite finger crack is extremely clean with phenomenal movement. There is one loose block pulling the bulge that keeps the crack at a moderate grade (12c)  please pull down and not out here! When this goes that sequence will become much more difficult.  Your  best practice would be to clip the old anchor and continue three more feet to a small ledge where you can build a new anchor (.75-1) Sometime  in the near future the old anchor will be pulled  and repositioned here. It will still allow for decent  with a single 70 m rope

Hamish Hamish wrote: Hey guys I red tagged that wall so back off!!

Settle down Virginia boy! 

You can only red tag a route, not an entire wall. Sheesh you easterners!

Lol - 5.10 "dangerous/ hazardous/ poor rock quality " to 5.12 "one loose block pulling the bulge that keeps the crack at a moderate grade"

I predict 2-3 more "first ascents" and at least one visit to a hospital before March.

Bill Schick wrote: Lol - 5.10 "dangerous/ hazardous/ poor rock quality " to 5.12 "one loose block pulling the bulge that keeps the crack at a moderate grade"

I predict 2-3 more "first ascents" and at least one visit to a hospital before March.

Welcome to the desert. That’s what it takes. We sused a direct variation possibility. Non existent without enhancing. 

Plus there were already 2 rescues 24 hours apart there in November. We’re used to that kind of.....behavior