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Rock fall, Jah Man, Sister Superior

Fritz Nuffer · · The Western Slope · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 445
Andrew Fahrland wrote: I climbed it in the middle of November and it was full on back-foot size for most of it. It was visibly larger than the pictures on the proj beta page. It also made some really spooky noises when we were rappelling, like maybe some of the boulders at the bottom were settling with an associated "boom" felt through the flake. Yikes. 

Whoa. When I last did it six years ago, it was knee and back.

Fritz Nuffer · · The Western Slope · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 445

Geologic time includes now.

Max Supertramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 65

Hooo man, I wish I could be there to nail those hairline/discont fingercracks out (constructive scarring, eh?) to keep it still accessible to the blue collar Jane Everyday types.  I guarantee that it will get locked in at 5.hard and thus my prior ascents will be all the more rarified for it.  There are times that I love this kinda community's "protective" actions, and other times when I just hate the way that elitist stuff masquerading as "conservation" locks things into an inaccessible realm without direct aid.

EDIT: it was definitely tighter than feet to back when I did p1 the first couple times.

Edit for Rob T: nailing is so out of vogue it's back in, catch up will you?  You won't mind if we drill the varnish outta the foot dish at the crux, right, or do you own the place?  

Rob T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 10
Max Supertramp wrote:  There are times that I love this kinda community's "protective" actions, and other times when I just hate the way that elitist stuff masquerading as "conservation" locks things into an inaccessible realm without direct aid.
  

yep, the rarified air of (checks topo) 5.11 on the other side of the formation. If you can’t climb that you were probably already using “direct aid” on the former crux. 

I hate it when people feel entitled to the easiest/most destructive style of ascent recorded in a guidebook in the last 100 years, guess we’ve all got our pet peeves. 
Edit for Max: Nope, belongs to all of us, that’s why anyone can chip or glue until they think it’s just right. 
Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 19,507

Glad I did it in 1997.  No memory of width.

Matt Castelli · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 245

Please be tradiban troll in disguise....

RIP

Sam Stuckey · · MOAB, UT · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Damn it... why couldn’t it have been Ancient Art? :(

Peter Blank · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined May 2008 · Points: 715

Probably slack liners.......  

Jeff Spicoli · · Moab, UT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 51

Great some new bs arbitrary first pitch. It will stand to be a great spot to send Colorado climbers this spring. 5 stars, go get after it bud! Nah man

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,482

Ho Lee Fuk

Max Supertramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 65

"Greg Child" MP account was first reporter.  

Local observation shortly to arrive on my end.  

I'd personally advocate for "5.8 chimney" type access to reach the base of the second pitch splitter godness (goodness?)  of the overall supremely excellent W face standard (Jah-Man) route.  

Stefan Griebel · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 310

The Regular NW Face of Half Dome's little brother!

Fritz Nuffer · · The Western Slope · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 445

I wonder who got the LA?

Jason Ringenberg · · Yosemite Village, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

I went up there today to check it out. It did indeed fall off. I wrote an article about it with side by side before and after photos. Check it out here.

https://moabgeartrader.com/2020/01/14/iconic-desert-rock-climb-jah-man-is-gone/ 

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

Wow that's too bad. What a great line on a classic tower! I hope somebody finds an alternate way to get to the original route.  Also that chimney was definitely narrower when I did it 10 or 15 years ago. I remember it being a tight squeeze!

smassey · · CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200
Fritz Nuffer wrote: Geologic time includes now.

Well put sir. However, wasn’t it last spring that a few cheeky tossers, renowned for their long traverses in the basement of the NPS system, so eloquently stated that with modern gear desert climbing was inherently safe? Hmmm... bummer to hear about this. It was a fun pitch, but decidedly tight squeeze the last time i did it. 

deathzonescience · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 15
https://www.instagram.com/p/B4xWp9lnsB0/?igshid=zsygzuixdyc

This may be the very last video footage of P chimney?  Glad to have climbed it, was only party on route that day in November.  
Brad White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 25

This must be all  my fault. In 1989, bailing on my first attempt of this route my partner and I did not have anything that would make an anchor at the bottom of that flake. So
I traversed to the right where I found an old, single quarter inch bolt (K.T's bolt???) This was reasonably soon after a Salt Lake climber had died when a single bolt anchor had failed in
Indian Creek, and there was no way in hell, especially at that time, that I was going to rappel off of an old single quarter incher in desert sandstone. So I backed it up by drilling a hole
in the huge flake, and filling it with a baby angle piton. The hammering I did to make that hole must have started a series of vibrations that was the beginning of the end of the flake. I feel terrible because that first chimney pitch was so cool. It's all my fault!

I have a picture of Derek Hersey and Annie Whitehouse doing dueling handstands on the summit of Sister Superior when I climbed it about a year later with them.

I apologize to the climbing community for wrecking a very cool Wingate tower route.  ;-) Somewhere in the dust of the rockfall is an old baby angle pin.

Don Ferris III · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

This is a blessing in disguise. Now all pitches go at 5.10 or above undoubtedly keeping most of the riff raff out. Can’t wait until other side of the north chimney/kor ingalls falls off; you’ll finally be able to find a camp spot in Castle Valley 

Jeff Scheuerell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,857

April is a few months away, or is January the new April?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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