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What to do with old cams

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,424
Marc801 C wrote:

I've not heard of this issue with the old Technical Friends. That picture looks like part of my trad rack. What is the concern (I've read the replies above) but would like more detail? I no longer climb enough trad to justify a new set of cams.

I know right! 

The word was/has been that there were instances of the cable/brazing being insuficiant/breaking when torqued (load not perpendicular to axle)

Also 

The concerns were that the the short cable in many placements put extreme force in a bad way on the axle & included a history of failurs. The 'fix' was to add the "Exo-sckeleton"= The Black plastic housing provided more predictable loading.  Hope that you can decode the garble; Check in with the actual Engineers for more 

EFS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 160
Suburban Roadside wrote:

  Well said.

 I retired these from the lead Rax,  after 1 short season, they have been deployed in pairs as directionals In Top Rope set-ups

Dangerous old Flexible Friends-mechanical/structual/geometric issues w/failures-Why increase the gamble?~ On the other hand, if you're generating forces that could come close to compromising the "Super Tape" webbing, you're going to have bigger problems!

this is the first time im seeing anywhere about old flexible friends being bad or suspect of anything. ive never heard other than good about them. is this the cylindrical or hexagonal swaged ones? the hex ones were early 90s. i think cylindrical were late 80s


geez, with the older original stuff in my rack, it must be the death rack from hell......
Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,424
EFS wrote:

this is the first time im seeing anywhere about old flexible friends being bad or suspect of anything. ive never heard other than good about them. is this the cylindrical or hexagonal swaged ones? the hex ones were early 90s. i think cylindrical were late 80s


geez, with the older original stuff in my rack, it must be the death rack from hell......

 I'm just the messenger here. I am not saying that. 

As I said the 'early Gen' ~ lacking the black plastic "frame"~ had shorter cable stems that contribute to "un-even" loading" The incidence of physical failure of individual units called on, by an extreme falls, to perform/deform, cracked/bent axles - led to testing that led to the immediate introduction of the plastic/nylon "frame" that was the standard for the next 5+ years if I remember correctly which is a stretch. 


Please, do not doubt your gear. I'm not knocking the tools, I use still them. I am just pointing out what I've been told when others see my rack.  These are experienced climbers, some buyers & gear-reps: Geeks who obsess about the minutia  -gearheads who know what & why things where discontinued. 

The "Peened" axle on the #0, the cam with blue trigger-bar at the left end,  is an example of a 1st Gen, that was recalled if I remember correctly & as you see I continued to use them.

1st Gen w/'peend' ends ~ 88" per "Nutstory" - "super-beefy" Blue "Super-Tape" sling (later run? w/ yellow bar-tack thread)

EFS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 160
Suburban Roadside wrote:

 I'm just the messenger here. I am not saying that. 

As I said the 'early Gen' ~ lacking the black plastic "frame"~ had shorter cable stems that contribute to "un-even" loading" The incidence of physical failure of individual units called on, by an extreme falls, to perform/deform, cracked/bent axles - led to testing that led to the immediate introduction of the plastic/nylon "frame" that was the standard for the next 5+ years if I remember correctly which is a stretch. 


Please, do not doubt your gear. I'm not knocking the tools, I use still them. I am just pointing out what I've been told when others see my rack.  These are experienced climbers, some buyers & gear-reps: Geeks who obsess about the minutia  -gearheads who know what & why things where discontinued. 

The "Peened" axle on the #0, the cam with blue trigger-bar at the left end,  is an example of a 1st Gen, that was recalled if I remember correctly & as you see I continued to use them.

1st Gen w/'peend' ends ~ 88" per "Nutstory" - "super-beefy" Blue "Super-Tape" sling (later run? w/ yellow bar-tack thread)



nahhh, i didnt mean you were saying i had the death rack from hell, i was making a generalized statement and half jokng after hearing some people talk about the gear. i could tell you werent too worried about the gear not working. im not doubting the gear i have because ive used it so damn much and never had an issue with a piece not working. some have taken some pretty good falls too. i looked and i have probably about 6 flexible friends, 4 i remember purchasing early 90s, and a couple booty pieces. a couple have the cylindrical crimp/weld, the others have the hex. im also very concious about how i place cams when i do so theres not much rotation/bending if one takes a fall. i see some guys just stick cams straight in horizontally on a vertical crack. ive always tried to make sure the stem is mostly pointing downward. the only times the stem on the flex friends would bend a lot is all the horizontals at the gunks, or similar horizontal cracks.....

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,424


EFS, All Good & Yeah, knowing how to use a tool with-in reasonable expectations seems to be a challenge for many "climbers" these days.

Hey ~ I've been meaning to ask you;
Is this The Delaware Water Gap? (Triumveret?"?)

EFS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 160

yeah thats the chimney near it. think its called cryptic. easy peasy shit, pic looked cool tho....the ex g/f used to like going up it when she started climbing. finally got her doing some 10 roofs at the gunks....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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