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What do you hate seeing in older climbers?

Brian ~+~+~+ · · Oceanside · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0
M Mobes wrote: Skaters in the 80s were using it, probably surfers too

I seriously doubt skaters used the word send. We don’t brag about skateboarding UP a hill. 

Surfing is at sea level. You aren’t ascending anything. You smash or kill the  wave, or pull a fat nasty air. 
Dave Olsen · · Channeled Scablands · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

Climbing over the bergshrund only to see a boot ax belay.

Artem Vasilyev · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 105

I believe that Larry the Enticer is out there, sending those jumps on a snowmobile. Just an example in addition to others here. The term is definitely pretty widespread.

Joe Hunt · · Costa Mesa, CA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 85
the schmuck wrote:

Wasn’t the Yo-yo de rigueur and the only accepted way to work a route in the 1960s and 1970s? What are you? 100 years old? 

My crew never worked a route. Rock climbing (the onsite flash with no beta in smooth controlled style) was the only thing sought after with us. All of our proud leads were the onsite flash with no beta in excellent style. It has been nice to see that coming back with the world's best the last 10 years or so. :)

M Mobes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 910

Sending shit special delivery, I sent your mom, u sent that trick, landing a jump- u sent it.

The word not used was "rig", millenials can claim it

Artem Vasilyev · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 105
Joe Hunt wrote:

My crew never worked a route. Rock climbing (the onsite flash with no beta in smooth controlled style) was the only thing sought after with us. All of our proud leads were the onsite flash with no beta in excellent style. It has been nice to see that coming back with the world's best the last 10 years or so. :)

Most hard trad onsights that I see are frantic, gripped climbers barely squeaking out a pitch by the skin of their teeth. This seems inevitable once you start to push into the grades past a certain point, imo. It is rad to see or do (whip or send), that being said. On the other hand, my experience shows that the smooth and controlled ascents tend to be from people who have climbed the route before, or had worked it in advance, or are playing it safe and onsighting well below their capabilities. 

Ain't nothing wrong with working a route before redpointing it. It's fun - is a good strategy to get quickly comfortable on grades below your project limit (by virtue of getting used to difficult movement) and a good way to learn the body english necessary for hard climbing. I think that this mentality comes from a healthy crossover between sport/bouldering tactics and trad climbing.

If you fall on a boulder flash attempt, do you shrug your shoulders and move on to the next one? Of course not, you figure out what you did wrong, send that shit, catalogue that in your muscle memory, and become a better climber for it. It's also useful to do this on sport and trad routes that are at your limit. Never understood the whole old school no-hang mentality. It seems to handicap and slow down a climbers development by incentivizing them to stay firmly in their comfort zone.

Allow me to be an old annoying guy by telling you one of my standard old man lines, "What you call an onsite flash with no beta, we used to call rock climbing. haha All of the rest of the stuff you do, pink points, red points, head points, yoyo'n, project'n, stick clipping, rap bolting, and what not... we used to call lame. haha"
Whats so lame about becoming a better rock climber and sending harder routes? You'll get better at onsighting, resting, reading sequences, gear selection, etc etc etc if you work routes. Most if not all of the new testpiece free routes in the valley are tackled by projecting. These are the same climbers that then go on to stroll up old "testpieces" onsight and with little effort.
Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 10
Brian ~+~+~+ wrote:

I seriously doubt skaters used the word send. We don’t brag about skateboarding UP a hill. 

Surfing is at sea level. You aren’t ascending anything. You smash or kill the  wave, or pull a fat nasty air. 

The problem with "send" is that it's a triple whammy bastardization.  It contracts, misspells, and crosses the verb-noun barrier.     I do agree however, that using "send" for the verb, and "sent" for the noun would be both confusing and stupid.   Therefore, not wanting to be either, I just use the term "clim"  

It's still only a single syllable and sounds the same when you speak it, so only insiders know you're using cool jingo, and yet you get the same important time savings when typing.

J T · · Colorado · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 300

When I hear send, I think “sent it packing”, or “sent it home crying”.  In other words, kicked the climbs butt, as opposed to getting your butt kicked by the climb.

Hal Tucker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

What I hate about older climbers is that if you cross them in the wild they may kick your ass, where the newer kids will just come here and start a thread crying about it.

Alexey Zelditch · · San Jose · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 975

Reading this tread I surprised how many people dislike word "send". To my excuse I aways  unintentionally   wrote "sent" in my tick list

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 10
Joe Hunt wrote:

My crew never ...blah blah  

Crew?!?  seriously?   almost as bad as posse.   You want to use "Fraz"  (as in the slick way to spell Fra's, which in turn means your tight friends, or "bra's")   

It goes like this at the Crag...  

Punter1:  "Herd you climmed that retrig yesterday that posey wuz squirelin'  ??"        
Punter2:  "Yup, sicked it with my Fraz"      

 Translation: " Snaked that red tag that some poser was tryin' to hoard for hisself, didja??      "Yessiree, me and some friends came out yesterday and poached it"                                                                  
EFS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 155
Hal Tucker wrote: What I hate about older climbers is that if you cross them in the wild they may kick your ass, where the newer kids will just come here and start a thread crying about it.

for the fuckin win......right up ^^^^ there

M Mobes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 910
EFS wrote:

for the fuckin win......right up ^^^^ there

He sent the thread!

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,404
M Mobes wrote:

He sent the thread!

That rig was light.

Ted Raven · · Squamish, BC · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 6
M Mobes wrote: Sending shit special delivery, I sent your mom, u sent that trick, landing a jump- u sent it.

The word not used was "rig", millenials can claim it

People have described mixed rock and ice climbs as 'mixed rigs' for at least 20 years. 

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 1
the schmuck wrote:

Wasn’t the Yo-yo de rigueur and the only accepted way to work a route in the 1960s and 1970s? What are you? 100 years old? 

I thought yoyo-ing was the practice of falling mid-pitch, descending to the base, then re-climbing the pitch with your rope running through all the gear, so you have a top rope until you reach your highest piece.  On the other hand, the preferred style was to pull your rope if you fell, so you'd have to clip the gear again as you re-led the pitch.  I don't think they removed the gear though, so it was sort of a pink point up to your last piece.

Rick Carpenter · · Marion, NC · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,210

1. Wrinkly skin
2. A turtle-like neck

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 115
JaredG wrote:

I thought yoyo-ing was the practice of falling mid-pitch, descending to the base, then re-climbing the pitch with your rope running through all the gear, so you have a top rope until you reach your highest piece.  On the other hand, the preferred style was to pull your rope if you fell, so you'd have to clip the gear again as you re-led the pitch.  I don't think they removed the gear though, so it was sort of a pink point up to your last piece.

Many hard routes from the 60s through the mid 80s went up yo-yo style.  The practice went away with the (slow) acceptance of hangdogging and redpointing. To claim, as one poster did, that yo-yoing is a younger climber practice is the height fallacy. 

Landon McDowell · · Paradise, UT · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
Joe Hunt wrote: Allow me to be an old annoying guy by telling you one of my standard old man lines, "What you call an onsite flash with no beta, we used to call rock climbing. haha All of the rest of the stuff you do, pink points, red points, head points, yoyo'n, project'n, stick clipping, rap bolting, and what not... we used to call lame. haha"

Somebody needs to see rocktpunk

Joe Hunt · · Costa Mesa, CA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 85

This thread... I guess in the era where everyone is supposed to be heard, the pussification of climbing should have a voice too.  :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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