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Lion's head FA Staunton State Park

Original Post
Rowan Neri · · Golden, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

Does anyone know of anyone working on this? I know the approach is far but I am so curious about this rock face and if any established routes exist yet. I'd like to train to get there fast (bike and trail run) and work it with some more experienced partner.

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,300

Hi Rowan, there are routes that have been climbed on Lions Head.  Most of these routes were climbed in the 70's-90s before the land was donated to Colorado State Parks.  Since the climbers were trespassing, none of the routes were documented.  I would assume that if the route is fairly obvious (i.e. climbs a continuous natural weakness) then it has probably been climbed.  With that being said, there are no "modern routes" on the formation and it is unclear if the park would actually permit bolts on the formation or not.  

It's a beautiful face and I'm a bit embarrassed that I haven't gone out to explore it yet.  Let me know if you get out there and I will add your route to the guide.  Keep in mind that the formation is closed for active raptor nesting from Feb 1 to Aug 1.

Ryan Dresser · · Ft Collins, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 40

Hey there Rowan. I like far approaches and hard work. We could go take a look before the raptor nesting. If not, im in the Evergreen area a lot in the spring/summer. Keep me in mind...

Hangdawgrob · · Golden · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

I would love to check it out sometime with you, Dave! 

Rowan Neri · · Golden, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

Thanks for the info Monty. Cool to hear you're working on a guide as well.

I will hit you guys up for scouting it out.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,482

Hit that face, Rowan, and you can just put FA: unknown if you find pitons and such on the route. I've always wanted to see what some ratings for lines there might be.

When I lived in Denver, I used to love going to Mt. Thor in Golden Gate State Park. It's also a bit remote and seldom visited, but with at least one older guide book. 

Abbott Abbott · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

almost as fun as gym climbing, ​5.9, 5 pitches

FA: Abbott, 2020
  • A pleasant and simple journey up the face visible from the trail. Start at the right facing continue up the singular hand crack. Very easy protectable. The final two slab pitches have natural rock pitons. Some sort of bird I've never encountered has made nests resembling bolts and chains at convenient locations dividing up the pitches. I'm not sure how these birds are able to peck into the rock so well, but I trusted the nests enough to clip into them, especially considering all 5 are placed at standing ledges. These birds (rockpeckers I call them), must also like some solid ground to lounge on. I think I might have seen a couple very slowly flying up the face above us, using the rock for stabilization. They are human sized and shaped, with plumage that I believe Patagonia bases their jackets on. 

With the natural pitons, surprisingly solid rockpecker nests to use as belay anchors, and a few bolt shaped holes eroded into the rock by rainfall, I didn't need to place any permanent protection. A very enjoyable route that I am surprised has not been climbed before. There were two groups that started climbing behind me who had the same idea, and I was lucky to get the FA before they did.

Show quoted text
Jim Turner · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 300
Abbott Abbott wrote:
almost as fun as gym climbing, 5.9, 5 pitches

FA: Abbott, 2020
  • A pleasant and simple journey up the face visible from the trail. Start at the right facing continue up the singular hand crack. Very easy protectable. The final two slab pitches have natural rock pitons. Some sort of bird I've never encountered has made nests resembling bolts and chains at convenient locations dividing up the pitches. I'm not sure how these birds are able to peck into the rock so well, but I trusted the nests enough to clip into them, especially considering all 5 are placed at standing ledges. These birds (rockpeckers I call them), must also like some solid ground to lounge on. I think I might have seen a couple very slowly flying up the face above us, using the rock for stabilization. They are human sized and shaped, with plumage that I believe Patagonia bases their jackets on. 

With the natural pitons, surprisingly solid rockpecker nests to use as belay anchors, and a few bolt shaped holes eroded into the rock by rainfall, I didn't need to place any permanent protection. A very enjoyable route that I am surprised has not been climbed before. There were two groups that started climbing behind me who had the same idea, and I was lucky to get the FA before they did.

Show quoted text

FA in 2020...

Abbott Abbott · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

My bad. Dates are hard. Lousy Smarch weather messing with me.

Jeremy Bentham · · London, England · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0
Abbott Abbott wrote: My bad. Dates are hard. Lousy Smarch weather messing with me.

Could you add your route to the designated MP page and include the line in a photo-topo? That would greatly contribute to our collective happiness.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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