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New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #9

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 181

We got to go skiing with ErikaNW, her happy birthday husband and her freakin awesome dad.  So that got me to thinking about this group, so I peeked.  Ok, I missed you guys.  So a little ketchup is in order.  

We had a good summer of travel.



We thoroughly enjoyed climbing with the east coast side of the group. Hey Dragons, hey RGold...

A quick stop at Black Mountain in TN yielded some fun top roping.
My super duper I am totally going to get in shape plan for Nov/Dec was pretty much a bust.  I am still in the sad sack shape that I have been for a while.  But that has not stopped us from doing what we are able to do.  One of the most fun was corrupting the grand kids and grandnieces.

The kids seemed to favor bouldering over the big wall. Smart elic little show off...


So Grandma had to give it try....

And this excursion led my niece to try rock climbing. Of course she doesn't go anywhere without the babies. So they climbed too.



So we are on the winter Ikon pass ski tour, in Breckenridge, CO now, Steamboat, Park City.  Hope to hook up with Lori when we get to Squaw Valley.  Planning on stopping off in Boise to visit with Helen on our way to Crystal Mountain in WA.  

Summer plans are slowly coming together.  Managed to get July 18-27 reservations in Banff National Park. Looking forward to doing Rundlehorn again. Late April and May we are going back to Cove Palisades SP  to do the kayak guide thing again, that puts us real close to Smith Rock.  June will find us in Ft. Eby SP in WA, Mt. Erie, exit 38.  July will find us touring east out of WA through ID to Banff.  August 1st we will be back at Wallace Falls SP in WA, Skykomish valley. Most everything there is well above our abilities so we may scooch over to Icycle Creek area.  

I have pretty much given up on being a good climber, so we will just continue to do what we can and enjoy the company of all the nice folks we meet along the way.
Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 181

Oh yeah, I almost forgot.  If you are traveling through Dallas, TX you have to check out this amazing climbing gym ​Silos Climbing​​​.  Be forewarned, it's graded via the old school yds scale.  Jeff and Lindsay (sp) are working hard to build it into a first class climbing gym to include multipitch routes. To the top is a challenging long pitch.  

Going...


Still going, hang dogging some...

Gone, she's hard to see in this picture but she is at the top.  
Elisa R · · SLC, UT · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Looks like a great summer, Dallas! Let me know when you make it to Park City - would love to meet up with you & Barb at Momentum!

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,145

Wow, Dallas! That's years worth of travel, for me, lol!

Coming through Boise! Yay!!!! Keep me posted, eh? We will have a gym here, maybe two, hopefully in February. But, plenty of good food here! There's also a bit of skiing in Idaho, although I don't ski. That would be instant injury, beyond the duck tape and staple gun I rely on to keep the parts loosely corraled.

I'm planning on driving over to Oregon, to meet up with you, too. Take a first shot at kayaking, and if some climbing sneaks in, that's good too! Dunno that I can lead for you to earn any dinner though. So I may have to buy! I'm really looking forward to meeting you, Barb, and the critters! Hopefully see Tom Hickman (hope you're okay, sir), maybe meet a few more peeps.

And anyone else who meanders my direction, too, of course. A second trip to CO will happen this season. Gotta visit Fritz (he has a 3 pitch in mind for me) and meet some more MPers!

But today? It was regular gym, this morning. House stuff once I get ambitious. Or not. It's snowing slop. The outside kitty thinks I'm responsible for it. Sheesh.

Best, Helen

dragons · · MWV, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 777

Great to hear how it's going Dallas! Don't be a stranger :) Say hi to Barb and Kota!

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Went to my climbing gym today but didn't climb. My typical saturday routine there is yoga followed by leading 3 or 4 easy routes. Today we opted for yoga followed by a 30 minute sauna. Went home and slept like a baby for an hour. 

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190
Señor Arroz wrote: Went to my climbing gym today but didn't climb. My typical saturday routine there is yoga followed by leading 3 or 4 easy routes. Today we opted for yoga followed by a 30 minute sauna. Went home and slept like a baby for an hour. 

Ummm... you are not setting a good example, Senor!     I don't believe the point of 'working out' is to sit in the sauna all day and then go home and nap.  Slippery slope...  

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada, and Appl… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 116

Lori;
How are you doing? I hope you are feeling better.

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190
Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote: Lori;
How are you doing? I hope you are feeling better.

Thank you Dwain. It looks like everything is healing and might be able to use my hand sooner than I thought.  Happy day!

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 315
Dallas R wrote: We got to go skiing with ErikaNW, her happy birthday husband and her freakin awesome dad.  

It was so great to meet up and ski with you and Barb (and yeah, my dad is a freakin awesome 79 year old TBI survivor who still tears it up on the slopes)!

Dallas - I have to say you are just one of those people that it feels good to be around. No negativity, no BS - I need more people like you in my life! Thanks for an awesome day and for being so incredibly kind. 

Hope to see you again before you head out - weather looks better for climbing next weekend? We didn't get out this weekend after all.

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190

I bought an Apple Watch today mainly so I could watch my blood sugars more easily... but while I’m at it it looks like it’s a great fitness watch.  Does anyone know if there’s a good climbing app?  Like one that would tally vertical feet climbed, maybe hours climbing, even log routes?  

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Lori Milas wrote:

Ummm... you are not setting a good example, Senor!     I don't believe the point of 'working out' is to sit in the sauna all day and then go home and nap.  Slippery slope...  

Did it again today. But the yoga class was a little harder.

Re. Apple watch. Be CAREFUL with that thing. Don't climb with it on your wrist unless you want to replace it soon.

STRAVA has a function for tracking vertical feet and climbs but, let's be honest, GPS doesn't do a good job with either of those tasks. 

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190
Señor Arroz wrote:

Did it again today. But the yoga class was a little harder.

Re. Apple watch. Be CAREFUL with that thing. Don't climb with it on your wrist unless you want to replace it soon.

STRAVA has a function for tracking vertical feet and climbs but, let's be honest, GPS doesn't do a good job with either of those tasks. 

Gosh, Senor.. sounds like you need another new App... the Nap App! .    Measures your workout in terms of horizontal time.  Are you going for the Olympic gold?

Don't rain on my parade with the Apple Watch, Senor.    I'm so elated about this.   I bought a separate heavy shield that wraps around the entire face, it's hard to imagine how that could fail, but if it does, Apple also has their replacement warranty, for any reason, any time.  

More likely, I would just leave it off at the start of any outdoor climb... or tuck it in a fanny pack for the few minutes I'd actually be climbing.  This is not perfect, but it's so really cool to have SOMETHING.  It apparently also has the same satellite capability that the Garmin has, where if you have an SOS it will contact help even outside cell range. (I'm double checking this.)
------------------------------
Not climbing related, but I've been paying special attention to the two competing diabetes companies.  Medtronic is the leader in the field, and my doctor has pushed their pump and other products as though there were no other.  But I started to notice a buzz about Dexcom/Tandem (the other little fish)... and then spent months talking to other diabetics who have switched over.  Suddenly I noticed a tidal shift... and took a few minutes to look up their stock and realize that Dexcom is moving fast.  Having used both their products now... there is no contest.  

Maybe the first time I've felt like I had a little insider trading to share.  Dexcom has fast gaining a strong edge in the market... .    
-----------------------------

I'm still trying to understand my own response to winter and darkness, and I'm reading a book called Red Light Therapy.  It discusses the human need for natural light, and specifically red spectrum light which is entirely missing from indoor lighting.  The author calls it "mal-illumination' in the same way that a lack of a vitamin would be 'malnutrition'.  

I've been using a small red light device for a few months just to experiment... but I don't think anything can replace actual sunlight.  I've noticed that the brightness off of snow up in the Sierra has almost the same effect as desert light (on me)... but for a lot of us, part of the call to the outdoors and climbing may include the exposure to sun.  I am craving that hit of brightness right about now...  

duncan... · · London, UK · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55
Oldtradguy wrote:




Hopefully, if I get into better shape and lose some weight, I will be able to do a handstand before our trip.
These are great, thanks for sharing. Good luck with your trip.

Since dislocating my shoulder a couple of years ago I’ve been rigorous about doing bodyweight shoulder strengthening exercises 4-5 times a week. I’ve recently added (feet supported) hand-stands to my repertoire but feel way off an unsupported one. I’m approaching my 7th decade but still reasonably fit, assiduous with my conditioning, manage a few .12 sport routes each year, but after 20 seconds upside down it feels like my head is about to explode!

Any tips on how to work towards this, other than be patient and keep practicing?
Oldtradguy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 15
duncan... wrote: These are great, thanks for sharing. Good luck with your trip.

Since dislocating my shoulder a couple of years ago I’ve been rigorous about doing bodyweight shoulder strengthening exercises 4-5 times a week. I’ve recently added (feet supported) hand-stands to my repertoire but feel way off an unsupported one. I’m approaching my 7th decade but still reasonably fit, assiduous with my conditioning, manage a few .12 sport routes each year, but after 20 seconds upside down it feels like my head is about to explode!

Any tips on how to work towards this, other than be patient and keep practicing?

Duncan

My wife did the same thing about 2 years ago when we were climbing at Red Rocks, NV. She was about 10 feet above her gear when it happened. She finally got a cam in and I lowered her to the ground. I had her bend forward and then popped her shoulder back in by pulling on her arm. She had PT for about 2 months to heal it. She was 64 when this happened.

For handstands I hate to say that it is just practice and patience. It takes time to get the strength and balance.

You can try doing a handstand by getting close to a wall and kick your feet up against the wall. Once you do this, try to suck your gut in to pull your feet off the wall. You can also get 2 dumbbells to use instead of palming the ground. This will give you a little more support. The more expensive way to learn is to get a small set of parallettes. Here is a link from Amazon. Scroll down the page to see what is available.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q1W8Q27/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07Q1W8Q27&pd_rd_w=Q9dq7&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=M043m&pf_rd_r=74W4SRSJTVE9HTZGB2NQ&pd_rd_r=a3da89d3-db0b-4ce2-b3bd-050ed6072099&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUU9aQU1CUUYzMVYyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDA5NTY1Tk9BSkNXSUo5SVUmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDUzMzAyOTNCRE4yTzVRMU9SUk4md2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

I did find an old scanned photo of me doing an inverted cross on the rings. When I was in shape back in college we used to do handstand pushups on the P-bars. My best was 17 at one time.


Normal handstand on P-bars


Good luck and do not blow out your shoulder again.

By the way my Brit climbing friend is moving back to Kendal in Cambria this summer to climb. He will retire in May/June timeframe.

John
Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290
Señor Arroz wrote:

Did it again today. But the yoga class was a little harder.

Re. Apple watch. Be CAREFUL with that thing. Don't climb with it on your wrist unless you want to replace it soon.

STRAVA has a function for tracking vertical feet and climbs but, let's be honest, GPS doesn't do a good job with either of those tasks. 

That’s true about the watch.  I learned long ago not to wear watches climbing.  I was doing The Line at Lovers Leap around 1986,  I know it was around that time because of the boss Swatch watch I was wearing and my bitchen Vaurnets.  I reached up to sink a jam and felt a crunch and was showered in the face by tiny pieces of glass.  Fortunately my Vaurnets shielded my eyes

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Kevin, that's great that the glass lenses of your Vuarnets saved your eyes from the glass watch. I wore Vuarnet Cateyes all through HS, too. We should get some and start a resurgence of that craze around LA.

Lori, clip your watch to a gear loop if you need. But I didn't teach you to hand jam just so you can go around destroying Apple watches with that valuable beta.   

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 181

Kind words Erika, thank you. 

I dislocated my shoulder many years ago doing wheelies on a motorcycle, went down, right across the handlebar cross bar.  Kind of ended my pitching career and my roping career.  Every time I would throw that shoulder pack to throw it would pop out.  So slow controlled movement keeps things intact.  

Lori, it's called seasonal affective disorder.  Try dragging a Florida Beach Person to Chattanooga, TN.  Barbara got pretty bad after a couple of years of overcast and drizzle, she really missed the Florida sunshine.  There is light therapy for it, but getting out and playing in the sun is the best therapy.

I quit wearing watches well before cell phones, carried a pocket watch.  For some reason I as always mashing watch faces and tearing watch bands off.  Perhaps there is an arm band or a necklace you can get for it.  

Oldtradguy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 15
Carl Schneider wrote:

Fuck dude. Respect. I was thinking today of what I used to do in the army, so much confidence and ability but I have always been so much in awe of people that are gymnasts, esp with rings. They have the best looking bodies too. 

Carl

My son and daughter in law are currently visit Sidney and Adelaide. My son sent a beautiful picture of some trees and two days later sent a message back that they were destroyed in one of the fires.

I was wondering if you can send me some links were my wife and I can give a donation to help with people in need that lost their homes and also with the suffering of the animals. Maybe others here on this MP group could also make a donation to various groups in need. You would have a better handle on who might need help than me trying to figure things out from my home in the states.

Thanks

John.
Lori Milas · · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190
Oldtradguy wrote:

Duncan

My wife did the same thing about 2 years ago when we were climbing at Red Rocks, NV. She was about 10 feet above her gear when it happened. She finally got a cam in and I lowered her to the ground. I had her bend forward and then popped her shoulder back in by pulling on her arm. She had PT for about 2 months to heal it. She was 64 when this happened.

For handstands I hate to say that it is just practice and patience. It takes time to get the strength and balance.

You can try doing a handstand by getting close to a wall and kick your feet up against the wall. Once you do this, try to suck your gut in to pull your feet off the wall. You can also get 2 dumbbells to use instead of palming the ground. This will give you a little more support. The more expensive way to learn is to get a small set of parallettes. Here is a link from Amazon. Scroll down the page to see what is available.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q1W8Q27/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07Q1W8Q27&pd_rd_w=Q9dq7&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=M043m&pf_rd_r=74W4SRSJTVE9HTZGB2NQ&pd_rd_r=a3da89d3-db0b-4ce2-b3bd-050ed6072099&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUU9aQU1CUUYzMVYyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDA5NTY1Tk9BSkNXSUo5SVUmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDUzMzAyOTNCRE4yTzVRMU9SUk4md2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

I did find an old scanned photo of me doing an inverted cross on the rings. When I was in shape back in college we used to do handstand pushups on the P-bars. My best was 17 at one time.


Normal handstand on P-bars


Good luck and do not blow out your shoulder again.

By the way my Brit climbing friend is moving back to Kendal in Cambria this summer to climb. He will retire in May/June timeframe.

John

John... YES to Carl helping us find a way to donate and/or help!


And... GOOD LORD.  This is crazy stuff.  Don't even know what to think about your athletic skills in your younger years... but it explains how you can still be a great climber today.  WOW!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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