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Anasazi Blanco replacement

Original Post
Mike Shorts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 10

The Blanco was my shoe! Perfect fit, nice rubber, reasonably stiff. I just love this shoe. When they were still available I stocked up. But now I’m down to my last fresh pair. Unfortunately they do not perform so good after a resole, so I’m becoming nervous already...
I’m in Europe, so UP is not really available (I want to try them on and ideally buy from a local shop).
Pinks don’t work for me. Too soft and the toebox seems different. Miuras don’t fit me. 
So do you have recommendations? What should I try on? Softer may be an option but edging is pretty important. I climb almost exclusively on limestone.

Doug Hutchinson · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 155

I really like Blancos, especially the older, 2012 version.

Some shoes to consider:

Scarpa Boostics - better at edging, but downturned and more narrow in forefoot, less of an all around shoe

Five Ten Anasazi Pro - probably the closest equivalent to the Blanco's they still make. Similar last and heel tension, but more rubber over the toe which I found made them less comfortable, and the Blancos are definitely stiffer.

Five Ten Grandstone 2019 - being new, I still don't have enough time in this shoe to have an informed opinion, but I think it is as stiff and edges about the same as the Blanco and has some downturn so it is better for overhanging. But the forefoot is narrower so it doesn't fit me as well as the Anasazi-lasted shoes like the Blanco

Report back if you find a suitable replacement

Josh Rappoport · · Somerville, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 26
Doug Hutchinson wrote: I really like Blancos, especially the older, 2012 version.

Some shoes to consider:

Scarpa Boostics - better at edging, but downturned and more narrow in forefoot, less of an all around shoe

Five Ten Anasazi Pro - probably the closest equivalent to the Blanco's they still make. Similar last and heel tension, but more rubber over the toe which I found made them less comfortable, and the Blancos are definitely stiffer.

Five Ten Grandstone 2019 - being new, I still don't have enough time in this shoe to have an informed opinion, but I think it is as stiff and edges about the same as the Blanco and has some downturn so it is better for overhanging. But the forefoot is narrower so it doesn't fit me as well as the Anasazi-lasted shoes like the Blanco

Report back if you find a suitable replacement

Currently on my second pair of Anasazi Pros.  I have used them for gym boulder, TR, lead, single pitch sport and trad, and a 7 pitch granite route in Austria (just before they were retired)

My second pair seems to fit slightly less well to my foot, suggesting that there might be some shoe to shoe variability
Thus I would suggest going to a store and trying them on (I did this for my first pair, but then ordered the second pair o/l)
gtluke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1

I just scored 2 pairs of blancos on ebay friday morning for $50 a pair.
I'm set for a while now but I'm curious as to what you wind up being happy with since i'm absolutely thrilled with my blancos at the gunks.

Peter Rakowitz · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2010 · Points: 440

I switched to Scarpa Boostics after I couldn’t find Blancos anymore and I haven’t looked back.

Conor Clarke · · Yosemite · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 727

Mike, I also climbed in the Blancos for many years and tried to stock up when they were discontinued.  Like you, I’m on my last fresh pair (now preserved only for special occasions) and am casting about for alternatives.

I feel like I’ve had some success resoling the Blanco with the extra-stiff 5mm of C4 rubber that Rock and Resole offers.  (See their FAQs on the 5mm here.)  It’s not fresh, out-of-the-box perfect, but overall I’ve been satisfied with the quality.  Perhaps worth a shot, if it's doable from Europe.  

La Sportiva shoes tend not to fit my feet as well -- especially the Miura, which I guess is pretty common for people who love the Blancos -- but I can still squeeze into the TC Pro and the Katana Lace.  The TC Pro is becoming my standby for granite slabs and cracks, and Katana Lace is becoming my standby for slightly steeper and more technical face climbing.  (Although I still prefer C4 rubber, and I don’t think either of these shoes “smedges” quite as well as the Blanco.)  

The Scarpa Instinct VS also fits my foot really well; I use that thing at the gym and for steeper climbing.  I've never tried the Boostic or the Grandstone, though I'd like to.

Good luck!  On some level, I suspect we may just have to resign ourselves to the post-Blanco life . . .

Andrew W · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

I had my original pair of Blanco’s resoled for their 5th time at Yosemite Bum. I was going to toss them, they needed soles and rands, they were beat. I decided to give them one more go, had them do a full sole replacement, rands and a mid sole stiffener, and they came back pretty much like new. 

Duke Lion · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Check eBay. There are still plenty of blancos out there in new/like new condition. I just bought 5 pairs to stock up recently. All under $80 per pair. They’re my favorite and I’ll be damned if I have this problem anytime soon. I don’t know why the hell they discontinue everything at 5.10

Conor Clarke · · Yosemite · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 727

Duke, the remaining Blancos that I see out there seem like they're in somewhat limited sizes.  But if you know of any in size 10 or 10.5 I'd be extremely grateful for a link!

Alek Fredriksson · · Millersville, MD · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 60

Unparallel Sports UP Lace
Unparallel Sports UP Rise VCS (apparently this one has a very similar heel to the blanco, but is slightly less stiff overall)
Better rubber than 5.10 IMO, once the rubber breaks in. So far all the pairs of Unparallels I have had and people I know have had were of good build quality. Definitely recommend the brand, if you get a chance to try them on. If you contact them through their website, you can inquire about how the shoes you're interested in fit compared to the Blancos.

Duke Lion · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0
Conor Clarke wrote: Duke, the remaining Blancos that I see out there seem like they're in somewhat limited sizes.  But if you know of any in size 10 or 10.5 I'd be extremely grateful for a link!

https://www.dicksclimbing.com/collections/climbing-shoes/products/5-10-anasazi-blanco-2017?variant=19289266585696

the 9.5’s they have are in UK sizes so they’re 10.5’s over here. Outside of that, what I did wAs save “5.10 Anasazi blanco” on eBay’s search function and it sends me notices anytime someone posts them up. A couple different sellers have popped up with a bunch of back stock recently. I’m sure more will come along in time. Also check geartrade.com every so often. I got one pair off there. The size you need is pretty popular and tend to sell first so be diligent. I wear 11’s and have the same issue. 

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

Pinks or a snug fitting Grandstone if you want to stick with 5.10.   I stocked up on Blancos and still have a few new pair but I’ve been more and more impressed with the pinks and a comfy all day shoe that still edges good.  Same with the Grandstone.   I always end up buying at least two pair of each shoe, a street size for long days and a size down for single pitch, I did that with the Blancos and will be doing it with the Pinks and Grandstone.  

Rob D. · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

You can buy b-stock Blancos on ebay pretty regularly for a pretty good deal.  They aren't cheap-cheap, but they are cheaper than a new pair of any other shoe (and you know you'll like them)

Conor Clarke · · Yosemite · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 727

Many thanks, Duke.  I ordered the last UK 9.5 from that shop in Bristol.  

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 212

In honor of the Blanco. :(

Stefan Levinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 15

What size do you need? I have a pair of 10's that were too tight for me and I'm looking to sell. Never used, just received the box, tried on at home, back into the box. 

Conor Clarke · · Yosemite · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 727

Stefan, just sent you a PM.  US size 10 is my preferred size.  

Duke Lion · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0
Conor Clarke wrote: Many thanks, Duke.  I ordered the last UK 9.5 from that shop in Bristol.  

Not a problem. Glad I could help. I got their last pair of 11’s a couple months back and they took about a week to arrive. If I run across anymore I’ll be sure to dm you the links. I’m constantly on the lookout for these and the Verdon laces. 

Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Dammit. First the C3s now this.

La Sportiva shes do NOT fit feet with a prominent big toe.

I use blancos for hard trad and the Scarpa shoes will NOT work for this

Xan Calonne · · Yucca Valley · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 35
Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

OK fine I'll give them a shot, but if they suck for thin cracks...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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