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No Glow and Ribs Rappels

Original Post
Anthony Nicholas · · Hoboken, NJ · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Can one get to the ground from the top station at either of these raps on double 60's ?

If one could, is it a good idea ? for example, are there issues pulling the ropes ?

I'm familiar with their locations and have used them, just never with doubles which I'm starting to revisit.

mnjsan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 685

2 60s will not get you to the ground from the top of no glow.

Gvigliotti Vigliotti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 5

Off "no glow" it's three (3) raps with a single 60 from the top.  I forget what trees are on the gt ledge there, but it's safe to say there's enough to potentially snag your rope if you're trying to link the first two.  I honestly don't think it saves that much time anyway.   

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,931

99% sure you can't do that on Ribs rappel either.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

You can do the Ribs rappel with double 60's, I do this all the time.   BUT, you have to drop over the arete at the end, not try to continue down to the lowest point of rock.  And CAUTION: do not wait too long to drop over the arete, or you will pendulum hard into the ground.  

For all these reasons, the first person down has to be an experienced climber used to dealing with such issues.  And better knot the end of those rappel ropes, because they won't reach the ground if you stay on the face.

As for pulling the ropes, I've never had a problem...but you never know...

Anthony Nicholas · · Hoboken, NJ · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0
rgold wrote:    BUT, you have to drop over the arete at the end, not try to continue down to the lowest point of rock.  And CAUTION: do not wait 

I think I follow; on or about the last station, swing climber's left over the arete and aim to land somewhere on the ramp near the start of Arch ?

Thanks for the input everyone !
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

You swing left below the last station, I don't remember how far below.  If you trend left as you descend, it will be pretty natural, and yes you end up on the higher ground that slopes up to Arch.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,931

OP - just remember that Ribs (and its arete variation) are fairly popular. If you're throwing* 200 ft of ropes from the top, it's unlikely that you'll see someone coming up below.

* So consider saddle bagging them instead. Standard caveat, I know.

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 258
rgold wrote: You swing left below the last station, I don't remember how far below.  If you trend left as you descend, it will be pretty natural, and yes you end up on the higher ground that slopes up to Arch.

Just making sure you understand that by "left" Rich means climber's left--- left as you are facing the wall.

Anthony Nicholas · · Hoboken, NJ · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0
Gunkiemike wrote: OP - just remember that Ribs (and its arete variation) are fairly popular. If you're throwing* 200 ft of ropes from the top, it's unlikely that you'll see someone coming up below.

* So consider saddle bagging them instead. Standard caveat, I know.

10-4 on slinging the rope, it's my norm even with one rope.

Anthony Nicholas · · Hoboken, NJ · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0
lostlazy wrote:

I think I follow; on or about the last station, swing climber's left over the arete and aim to land somewhere on the ramp near the start of Arch ?

Thanks for the input everyone !
Are you skimming SethG ?   
Josh Schwartz · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
rgold wrote: You swing left below the last station, I don't remember how far below.  If you trend left as you descend, it will be pretty natural, and yes you end up on the higher ground that slopes up to Arch.

The way I’ve done this is rapping straight down and then traversing straight left off the ledge that the last station is on. Requires a bit of a bushwhack but avoids any pendulum risk. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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