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Please help!

Original Post
Spaggett, Gotcha! · · Western NC · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

I’ve been climbing for 4 months now. Can onsight 5.11+/V6- in the gym now (big sandbag tho in my local gym, so I’m probably better than that). Looking to get into multipitch trad outside – esp. want to do this sweet 11-pitch 5.12b in Colorado on a cross country road trip. I hired a guide 2 weeks ago and did some ground practice and feel good about my placements. A few quick questions:

-I know it's a bit ambitious, but do you guys see any risks?
-Can someone send me a training program so I can get fit onsight 5.12a trad in 6 months?  Maybe not books, really busy rn, but something that you’ve done and works quick would be ideal.
-Still recovering from a torn rotator cuff though, doc thinks nothing until Feb, but I bouldered V2- yesterday and felt pretty good with some ibuprofen. Y’all have any experience/recommendations?
-Random question:  If you get pumped, is it safe to place a cam and rest on it? I’m also a little worried about overcamming – I heard that is most likely to pull out…
-Btw, where can I get some cams? If they’re used, how do I check for microcracks?
-Silly question: if I have to rappel on a fixed line, can I use my ATC? I’ve only used GriGri 2, lol.
-Anyone have local SW Kansas crag recommendations that have inclusive 5.9c to 5.10b sport routes – you know, with good flow but no dynos, crimps (I don’t have good grip strength yet but getting a hangboard for xmas tho!), or slab (bc that’s not really climbing)?
-Can someone recommend a mentor? I have a helmet and set of 6 quickdraws to contribute.. Just tell me what else I need to buy!

Otherwise, I think I’m totally ready. I’ve got a lot of stoke to contribute. Oh, and I can’t leave my dog at home bc it gets anxious. Thanks y'all!

Shay Subramanian · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

1/10

Edit: actually upon re-reading, 0/10, this is truly trash

Mike Tsuji · · SLC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 280

You'll be fine.  Remember to bring a headlamp.  If you're onsighting 5.11+ in the gym I would say no more training is required.  

Chris Blatchley · · Sammamish, WA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 6

you got a bite on your first response. not bad. i'll give a 2/10. still pretty on-the-nose, unlike you with those trad skills

edit: oh! then deleted. nice. 3/10.

Bouldiban nee Timothy Keenan · · Reno, NV · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 0

Solutions...and a beanie.

Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 76

That's a (censored for college admissions) masterpiece. Can't decide between -10/10 or 10/10

Todd Berlier · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0
Chris Blatchley wrote: you got a bite on your first response. not bad. i'll give a 2/10. still pretty on-the-nose, unlike you with those trad skills

edit: oh! then deleted. nice. 3/10.

Juice that to 4, eh? That looks like it took at least 5 minutes...

Chuck D · · Dallas, TX · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 20

4/10, i bit and then deleted. I dont know whats serious or not anymore.

I had some HS kids come up to me at the gym last week with their hands taped up trying to get 10ft off the ground on the crack trainer and tell me they just booked their spring break trip to Yosemite to climb "El cap, but one of the easy ones".  They had never heard of trad climbing or aid climbing, just got their lead tags at the gym and had already booked their flights out there. I asked how long they thought it would take them, and they told me that, since Alex and Tommy did it in 2hrs they were thinking maybe 7 or 8 because they didn't want to sleep up there.

I told them to go to the local sport climbing area first but they said that sounded lame since its only 30ft.

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 17

What route?

Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 76
Chuck D wrote: 4/10, i bit and then deleted. I dont know whats serious or not anymore.

I had some HS kids come up to me at the gym last week with their hands taped up trying to get 10ft off the ground on the crack trainer and tell me they just booked their spring break trip to Yosemite to climb "El cap, but one of the easy ones".  They had never heard of trad climbing or aid climbing, just got their lead tags at the gym and had already booked their flights out there. I asked how long they thought it would take them, and they told me that, since Alex and Tommy did it in 2hrs they were thinking maybe 7 or 8 because they didn't want to sleep up there.

I told them to go to the local sport climbing area first but they said that sounded lame since its only 30ft.

I hate my generation.

Sam D · · Southern California · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 47
Chuck D wrote: I had some HS kids come up to me at the gym last week with their hands taped up trying to get 10ft off the ground on the crack trainer and tell me they just booked their spring break trip to Yosemite to climb "El cap, but one of the easy ones".  They had never heard of trad climbing or aid climbing, just got their lead tags at the gym and had already booked their flights out there. I asked how long they thought it would take them, and they told me that, since Alex and Tommy did it in 2hrs they were thinking maybe 7 or 8 because they didn't want to sleep up there.

I told them to go to the local sport climbing area first but they said that sounded lame since its only 30ft.

9/10

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,420
Spaggett, Gotcha! wrote: I’ve been climbing for 4 months now. Can onsight 5.11+/V6- in the gym now (big sandbag tho in my local gym, so I’m probably better than that). Looking to get into multipitch trad outside – esp. want to do this sweet 11-pitch 5.12b in Colorado on a cross country road trip. I hired a guide 2 weeks ago and did some ground practice and feel good about my placements. A few quick questions:

-I know it's a bit ambitious, but do you guys see any risks?
-Can someone send me a training program so I can get fit onsight 5.12a trad in 6 months?  Maybe not books, really busy rn, but something that you’ve done and works quick would be ideal.
-Still recovering from a torn rotator cuff though, doc thinks nothing until Feb, but I bouldered V2- yesterday and felt pretty good with some ibuprofen. Y’all have any experience/recommendations?
-Random question:  If you get pumped, is it safe to place a cam and rest on it? I’m also a little worried about overcamming – I heard that is most likely to pull out…
-Btw, where can I get some cams? If they’re used, how do I check for microcracks?
-Silly question: if I have to rappel on a fixed line, can I use my ATC? I’ve only used GriGri 2, lol.
-Anyone have local SW Kansas crag recommendations that have inclusive 5.9c to 5.10b sport routes – you know, with good flow but no dynos, crimps (I don’t have good grip strength yet but getting a hangboard for xmas tho!), or slab (bc that’s not really climbing)?
-Can someone recommend a mentor? I have a helmet and set of 6 quickdraws to contribute.. Just tell me what else I need to buy!

Otherwise, I think I’m totally ready. I’ve got a lot of stoke to contribute. Oh, and I can’t leave my dog at home bc it gets anxious. Thanks y'all!

Awesome, you freaking rock!

1. No possible risks, go for it!
2. No training required, I'm 110% sure that you can onsight any 5.13 outside right now!
3. No pain, no gain, you've just got to climb through it and you'll be great!
4. Don't pull out, just don't!
5. Best place I've found for good cams is the dumpster near where reported burgleries occur.  Just watch the threads for someone who had their gear stolen, then ask them for the location of the theft and check the dumpsters around that area, I've scored many racks this way!
5.b. Just drop all of the gear from a really high place, the impact will forge those microcracks back together and you'll be good to go!
6. No, ATCs are death, grigri 2s are death too, you must use the grigri+, it's the only way to be safe!
7. I could tell you, but I'd have to kill you!
8. Haven't you seen free solo yet? that's the only mentor you need, and you already have way too much gear, get rid of that asap!

Can't wait to run into your dog at the crag, it can hang with my crag babies!
Kief Manning · · Elgin, AZ · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

YGD!!! Don’t take pills to climb on an injury. Recipe for disaster. Otherwise sure you are good. What could go wrong. Once you learn how to rappel doubles on you gri gri you are golden. God save us all

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 106
Spaggett, Gotcha! wrote: I’ve been climbing for 4 months now. Can onsight 5.11+/V6- in the gym now (big sandbag tho in my local gym, so I’m probably better than that). Looking to get into multipitch trad outside – esp. want to do this sweet 11-pitch 5.12b in Colorado on a cross country road trip. I hired a guide 2 weeks ago and did some ground practice and feel good about my placements. A few quick questions:

-I know it's a bit ambitious, but do you guys see any risks?
-Can someone send me a training program so I can get fit onsight 5.12a trad in 6 months?  Maybe not books, really busy rn, but something that you’ve done and works quick would be ideal.
-Still recovering from a torn rotator cuff though, doc thinks nothing until Feb, but I bouldered V2- yesterday and felt pretty good with some ibuprofen. Y’all have any experience/recommendations?
-Random question:  If you get pumped, is it safe to place a cam and rest on it? I’m also a little worried about overcamming – I heard that is most likely to pull out…
-Btw, where can I get some cams? If they’re used, how do I check for microcracks?
-Silly question: if I have to rappel on a fixed line, can I use my ATC? I’ve only used GriGri 2, lol.
-Anyone have local SW Kansas crag recommendations that have inclusive 5.9c to 5.10b sport routes – you know, with good flow but no dynos, crimps (I don’t have good grip strength yet but getting a hangboard for xmas tho!), or slab (bc that’s not really climbing)?
-Can someone recommend a mentor? I have a helmet and set of 6 quickdraws to contribute.. Just tell me what else I need to buy!

Otherwise, I think I’m totally ready. I’ve got a lot of stoke to contribute. Oh, and I can’t leave my dog at home bc it gets anxious. Thanks y'all!
You should go climbing with Kyle Walker.
He can teach you everything you need to know.
Even how to take a fall.


Matt Pierce · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 278

You lost me at " I’m probably better than that "

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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