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Petzl Reverso

Original Post
Mike P. · · Dillon, Colorado · Joined May 2015 · Points: 5

Can you rappel on one side of a 9.8 with a Reverso?

Andrew Child · · Corvallis, Or · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 846

You can so long as the rope is fixed

Aidan Raviv · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 95

Yes. Check your friction hitch to see if it still bites on the rope and add wraps if it doesn't. Make sure your rappel is extended enough that your friction hitch won't get caught in your belay device.

Add a biner (same size) in parallel with your other one to add friction for extra control if you deem it necessary. 

Jim Urbec · · sevierville, TN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 41
Mike P. wrote:
Can you rappel on one side of a 9.8 with a Reverso?

my son cooper going down "open book" at linvile gorge on a beal joker 9.1 with a reverso and hollowblock backup (hidden in his left hand)  we used a beal escaper.  if i had to do it again would have used a tag line. 

Mike P. · · Dillon, Colorado · Joined May 2015 · Points: 5

Ok Thanks. I read something in Mountaineering Accidents of 2008 that I interpreted to mean Petzl recommends using both sides up to 10mm. I am going to have to look again. I read the Reverso instructions and didn't see any problems with it either. 

Ģnöfudør Ðrænk · · In the vicinity of 43 deg l… · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 2
Mike P. wrote: Ok Thanks. I read something in Mountaineering Accidents of 2008 that I interpreted to mean Petzl recommends using both sides up to 10mm. I am going to have to look again. I read the Reverso instructions and didn't see any problems with it either. 

petzl reverso design has changed significantly over the years, so that may not apply, but in any case, with any device and rope combination, if you are having trouble controlling because the friction is too low, you can add friction simply by adding a leg wrap, (rope free end down outside of right leg then up between legs and over left leg).  Lots of other ways to add friction on the fly also.

Turner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 332
Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 636
Ģnöfudør Ðrænk wrote:

petzl reverso design has changed significantly over the years, 

Early reverso before the v notch did have less friction, caught me by surprise after using the 4 and doing a rap on an 8mm. 
Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

Pretty sure Jim Titt included that original Reverso some testing years back, has among the worst braking force. FYI, Petzl did change it at some point and it had some friction grooves that ran horizontally that are not seen in the photo above. It also came a Reversino for small ropes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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