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State of fixed gear on Zodiac

Original Post
Tank Evans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 135

I am considering a ground-up free attempt on the Zodiac over a long weekend in late October. I have never been up the route. I know freeing the Zodiac requires that a good bit of fixed gear is in place from previous parties. I was curious if anyone has been up the route recently and could comment on how much fixed gear is in place?

I know a number of years ago much of it was removed but perhaps after Babsi and Jacob ascent it is in place again?

Sam Skovgaard · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 87

Bold.  Unfortunately I have no info about the route condition,  but I am curious about your plan.  If you can't free a pitch after a few tries, are you planning on aiding through sections so you can finish the route over a single weekend, or are you just going to see how far you can get free in two days? 

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Finished the route yesterday. There is loads of fixed gear. However I can't judge is this gear was good enough to take lead falls, rather than just my body weight. the pegs looked good though.

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 200

I too just came off Zodiac, being chased up the route by David^^. Some fixed gear was good, while some was questionable. Black Tower had some questionable stuff. (Wooden peg). We asked another guy, who has done Zodiac 4 times about the fixed gear, and he said that it has the usual amount. Definitely bring a single set of tomahawks or peckers, which we found very useful on El Portal and Flying Buttress pitches. We brought a hammer, but never even considered breaking it out. Many offset cams are mandatory. Get after it!!!

Tank Evans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 135

Awesome guys, great job up there! I appreciate the beta. We are just considering options, but regarding tactics my main one is just flail all over it until eventually we reach the top.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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