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Classics out of Colorado Springs

Original Post
Christian Newby · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

My girlfriend and I are here for 8 days. Any classic bouldering or trad/sport near or relatively close to the springs? Anything from V0-V8 on bouldering and 5.12 sport/ 5.9-10 on trad?

sandrock · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 115

The climbing in Colorado Springs is quite lame. You need to go to Shelf or the South Platte

andrew.reed · · Louisville, KY · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 45

While that is largely true, there are some exceptions.  Garden of the God's can be a day of good climbing if you do New Era and the harder sport lines to the left of that route on East face of Kindergarten rock. Anaconda is also a stand-out line in the garden and can be easily climbed with a set of quick draws.

Ute Pass has bouldering if you're looking for that.

Cheyenne Canyon is mostly junk.  The Amphitheatre may be the only worth while area.

Check out Saint Peter's Overlook on Old Stage Road for some good routes as well.

Other than that, sandrock isn't wrong.  You would be quite happy at Shelf, or the multitude of exquisite climbing spots in the S.platte. 

Gruff · · Littleton · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 15

You won't regret checking out the Martyr.  One of the best areas above Colorado Springs.  Combine the Martyr with Pearly Gates for an amazing day.  Best to get there before it gets cold later this week.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105756922/the-martyr

J T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
andrew.reed wrote: While that is largely true, there are some exceptions.  Garden of the God's can be a day of good climbing if you do New Era and the harder sport lines to the left of that route on East face of Kindergarten rock. Anaconda is also a stand-out line in the garden and can be easily climbed with a set of quick draws.

Ute Pass has bouldering if you're looking for that.

Cheyenne Canyon is mostly junk.  The Amphitheatre may be the only worth while area.

Check out Saint Peter's Overlook on Old Stage Road for some good routes as well.

Other than that, sandrock isn't wrong.  You would be quite happy at Shelf, or the multitude of exquisite climbing spots in the S.platte. 

Ute Pass closed a few years ago, you will get a ticket if you're lucky and towed if you aren't.


I would recommend Mongoose Block for bouldering and the Martyr for roped climbing if you are trying to spend time in the Colorado Springs proper....otherwise I would go do 11mile and Shelf (both of which can be easily done in non-exhaustive day trips)
Adam Block · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 613

It's prime South Platte season and its closer than Shelf. Turkey Rocks for splitters and multipitch, Thunder for classic face trad & hard sport, Sheep's Nose for bouldering or more multipitch.

J T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
Adam Block wrote: It's prime South Platte season and its closer than Shelf. Turkey Rocks for splitters and multipitch, Thunder for classic face trad & hard sport, Sheep's Nose for bouldering or more multipitch.

South Platte is prime and better than Shelf in a lot of ways...however if it is closer (in terms of time taken to get there) than Shelf it is marginal. In my experience Shelf takes much less time to get to compared to areas like Thunder Ridge, especially when the approach is factored in. YMMV

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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