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Best first 5.11 sport route at Red Rock?

Original Post
Wyatt Losee · · St. George · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Hey everyone! I feel pretty confident leading 5.10s around Southern Utah (not sure how the grades compare elsewhere, especially at RR), and I'm feeling really fit and psyched to send my first 5.11! I know grades can totally be all over the place, but I'd really appreciate opinions on a great first route into the world of 5.11s. I'd prefer a shorter route (100ft or less) and if it counts for anything I am 6ft. 3.

What would you recommend for a first 5.11 in Red Rock?

Sean Onasch · · fort collins · Joined May 2016 · Points: 195

check out under the boardwalk. Fun gym style with big features. mountainproject.com/route/1…;

Kyle Smith · · Southern Nevada · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 1,114

The Glitter Gulch area has a ton of fun and safe 5.11 routes to try out. There are tons of great 5.11s at Red Rock, but that crag is the first that comes to my mind for concentration of 5.11. Under the Boardwalk at the Pier is also a stellar 5.11, but there aren't many other 5.11s at that crag.

Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 7,937
Sean Onasch wrote: check out under the boardwalk. Fun gym style with big features. mountainproject.com/route/1…;

Under the Boardwalk felt hard for the grade, although it was rated 5.10b when I tried it.  I am tall, also.  (6' 4")

EFS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 60

try rebel without a pause, fun, short 11 in the upper right black corridor. you cant miss it, its probably the line that catches your eye in there when you scan the area. also, as just said above.......sweet pain wall area has some good stuff. glitter gulch somehow is called an 11 now, but when i did it, the route was rated 10b....tough right at the start, cruiser the rest of the way but sustained and pumpy. there are plenty of hard 10s and 11s on the panty wall in the first pullout, and hit calico basin/cannibal crag and jump a ride on the caustic cock.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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