Hey everyone! I feel pretty confident leading 5.10s around Southern Utah (not sure how the grades compare elsewhere, especially at RR), and I'm feeling really fit and psyched to send my first 5.11! I know grades can totally be all over the place, but I'd really appreciate opinions on a great first route into the world of 5.11s. I'd prefer a shorter route (100ft or less) and if it counts for anything I am 6ft. 3.
What would you recommend for a first 5.11 in Red Rock?
The Glitter Gulch area has a ton of fun and safe 5.11 routes to try out. There are tons of great 5.11s at Red Rock, but that crag is the first that comes to my mind for concentration of 5.11. Under the Boardwalk at the Pier is also a stellar 5.11, but there aren't many other 5.11s at that crag.
try rebel without a pause, fun, short 11 in the upper right black corridor. you cant miss it, its probably the line that catches your eye in there when you scan the area. also, as just said above.......sweet pain wall area has some good stuff. glitter gulch somehow is called an 11 now, but when i did it, the route was rated 10b....tough right at the start, cruiser the rest of the way but sustained and pumpy. there are plenty of hard 10s and 11s on the panty wall in the first pullout, and hit calico basin/cannibal crag and jump a ride on the caustic cock.