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what should i bring up?

Original Post
jackscoldsweat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15

I'm gonna be dragging a bunch of metal up some c3 granite soon. its been awhile. some of that metal is assembled by totem. I've never placed one. though i have heard good things.

I have triples in the blue and black totems, but should i swap out one of the triples for a offset bd equivalent?

i've always thought that having variety on a wall is a good thing.

what say you?

thanks,
JCS
Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 840

Cams are generally regarded at C1 placements.  Micro nuts, ballnuts, hooks, etc for 20 or 30 feet between good cams are C3 kinda stuff.  

jackscoldsweat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15
Stiles wrote: Cams are generally regarded at C1 placements.  Micro nuts, ballnuts, hooks, etc for 20 or 30 feet between good cams are C3 kinda stuff.  

you're killing me Stiles. you're absolutely sucking the life force outta me. i'm not even sure how that's possible over such a distance. come on. try again. please.

 

Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 26

Like Stiles said, only cams will get you so far. Having a good assortment of micro nuts (offset micro nuts) and a few hooks will get you much further. It’s good to have a variety of cams, but at C3, micro nuts, off set cams, and hooks are going to be your friend.

jackscoldsweat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15

Now you're doubling up on me Alec.....For fecks sake! No shite on the micro, hooks blah blah blah stuff peeps! i know this.....

i knew this was a mistake.

Maybe i fooked up the question to begin with.

JCS

jackscoldsweat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15


I'm sure whatever you think i need is in there somewhere....

JCS
Rob Dillon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 730

If one blue totem doesn't work, then the second and third won't either. Therefore, variety is your friend.

jackscoldsweat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15

Short and sweet Robo. I like you.

I might even buy a Christmas tree from ya!

Tyler Phillips · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 1,710

People still aid climb?

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 526
jackscoldsweat wrote:

I have triples in the blue and black totems, but should i swap out one of the triples for a offset bd equivalent?

i've always thought that having variety on a wall is a good thing.

what say you?

thanks,
JCS

When it comes to Totems, there's no other cam (besides maybe an offset in some placements) that's going to be better. Period.

Thinnest headwidth (as thin at a C3), ability to do all those weird messed up placements that make a cam placement "C2" or "C3" such as 2-lobes, super flared, etc.

Ok, not period. If your route is going to have a lot of hollow space beneath a thinner crack where one can use cams with camstops as nut placements, then totems ain't going to help.

To follow the weird thread drift above, you can def get to C3 on just cam placements depending upon the terrain. Overhanging flared feature for 20'-30'? Totems will get you there at C3. Shallow scars and weaknesses only deep enough for two lobes for 20'-30'? Totems will get you there at C3. Bunch of rivets but no rivet hangers? The thumb loops on a totem cam will turn that A1 ladder into C3 for ya.

It's the mind of the leader that makes the grade, not always the gear. 
Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 26

Your right, we got derailed from the primary question.

I have triples in the blue and black totems, but should i swap out one of the triples for a offset bd equivalent?
Swap out one of triples of totems for some BD 000 and BD X4’s for my personal preference. 
I did jump to conclusion, gear is dependent upon terrain and not all aid terrain calls for micro nuts and hooks. 
jackscoldsweat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15

Tyler, suck an egg! Stereotypes may ring true, but that doesn't deter the instinctual feeling i and most others get that you need a foot up you're arse every now and then. besides, aid will take me where you will never go.

Kevin aka Peter Griffin......do you ever get tired of being right? i hate you in the most loving way possible. 

Alec, you're forgiven, but lose the hoodie and stop smoking so much pot. Thanks for the suggestion.

Stiles, you're STILL on the shti list. Get the lead out!

JCS

Matt N · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 384
Tyler Phillips wrote: People still aid climb?

Totems are aid. 

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

A double set of DMM Offset brass nuts, a double set of Totems and a double set of Metolius Mastercam offsets will get you up 99% of all trade route pitches on El Cap.

Sam X · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30
Tyler Phillips wrote: People still aid climb?

For most of us mortals who can't free 5.14, aid is just a fact of life if you want to do big walls. Have fun gym climbing bud!

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 526
Sam X wrote:

For most of us mortals who can't free 5.14, aid is just a fact of life if you want to do big walls. Have fun gym climbing bud!

People still climb in the gym?

Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 26
kevin deweese wrote:

People still climb in the gym?

Where else would one practice aid placements in an artificial crack on top rope? 

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 526

Under an overpass like a proper gentleperson, duh.

Tyler Phillips · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 1,710
jackscoldsweat wrote: Tyler, suck an egg! Stereotypes may ring true, but that doesn't deter the instinctual feeling i and most others get that you need a foot up you're arse every now and then. besides, aid will take me where you will never go.

Man, I hope to get out of the gym and climb big scary things one day. Finger crossed all my beta gets answered so I can go out and venture with you guys!

jackscoldsweat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15
Tyler Phillips wrote:

Man, I hope to get out of the gym and climb big scary things one day. Finger crossed all my beta gets answered so I can go out and venture with you guys!


No Ty Ty, you keep sucking. the shell is almost off. until then, keep those fingers crossed. 

JCS

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,054

Bring everything and drop stuff at regular intervals.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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