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What is the "Standard Rack" at RRG?

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Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

Leaving this Friday for a week at RRG. Plan on doing some trad (and sport to 5.11+) from 5.7-5.10 range.  I have doubles or triples in C4 and Master Cams and nuts including offsets. I don't feel like hauling the entire rack with me, so what do you consider "Standard" for the area?  

Probably do Roadside Attraction in the 5.7 range up to Jungle Beat in the 5.10 range. 5.9+ my ass, I've seen the pictures.  I do not own anything bigger than a #4, but can borrow a #5 if needed.

thanks in advance for any advice.

Dylan Pike · · Sandy, UT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 197

Doubles from 0.3 to 3 C4. Nuts. Big gear if you want to climb wide. It wouldnt hurt to have a set of TCUs also.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

PSA - there were breakins at the parking lots close to Motherlode hill, with climbing gear stolen. Take care not to leave anything obviously expensive in plain sight.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10
Dylan Pike wrote: Doubles from 0.3 to 3 C4. Nuts. Big gear if you want to climb wide. It wouldnt hurt to have a set of TCUs also.

There is one climb called G.I. that looks to have a wide start.  But it also looks really easy, and I am pretty familiar with this type of climbing.  I'll see if I can't get a BigBro or #6.  
Neil Bodner · · Columbus, Ohio · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 151

Stoppers, Doubles .3 to .75, Triple hands, single bigger  There’s some long cracks that take triple hands. If your looking at GI, I’d highly recommend Jungle Beat while your over there 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 212

I’d bring a minimal amount of nuts and lots of cams.  Most routes eat cams, nuts not so much.  Triples of 0.75-2 could be useful depending on the routes; you do get a fair amount of clean continuous splitters, though obviously not quite like the Creek.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

On a side note, how far away is a grocery store from 4 Guys Campground in Stanton?  In case I forget something?

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 541
Ted Pinson wrote: I’d bring a minimal amount of nuts and lots of cams.  Most routes eat cams, nuts not so much.  Triples of 0.75-2 could be useful depending on the routes; you do get a fair amount of clean continuous splitters, though obviously not quite like the Creek.

Word.  The trad at the RRG is not particularly devious in terms of pro, and you really can't go wrong with a double set of cams/tcu's and a set of stoppers. No need for offsets, tricams, ballnuts, or any of that chicanery.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10
Pnelson wrote:

Word.  The trad at the RRG is not particularly devious in terms of pro, and you really can't go wrong with a double set of cams/tcu's and a set of stoppers. No need for offsets, tricams, ballnuts, or any of that chicanery.

Between the two of us, we have a clean aid rack...just don't want to bring it all   

Don't have a ton of TCU's any more, replaced them with Metolius UL Mastercams and C3's....although I still have the yellow one.

Proud to say I am in Tricam recovery since 2015, I'll get my five year chip next year.
Matt Clay · · Estill County, KY · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1,081
Buck Rio wrote: On a side note, how far away is a grocery store from 4 Guys Campground in Stanton?  In case I forget something?

You're about 15 mins from a Kroger's back in Stanton.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10
Matt Clay wrote:

You're about 15 mins from a Kroger's back in Stanton.

Thanks...do they sell beer/booze?

Fehim Hasecic · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 170
Buck Rio wrote:

There is one climb called G.I. that looks to have a wide start.  But it also looks really easy, and I am pretty familiar with this type of climbing.  I'll see if I can't get a BigBro or #6.  

That’s like 2-3 moves through the wide section, my friend bought the 6 just for this climb(we were just starting to get into trad). If you’re not comfortable at the grade I’d say it doesn’t hurt to place it, otherwise it’s pretty straight forward and there’s plenty of gear after the wide. Rest of the climb is pretty sweet, probably steepest 5.7 I’ve climbed anywhere

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10
Fehim Hasecic wrote:

That’s like 2-3 moves through the wide section, my friend bought the 6 just for this climb(we were just starting to get into trad). If you’re not comfortable at the grade I’d say it doesn’t hurt to place it, otherwise it’s pretty straight forward and there’s plenty of gear after the wide. Rest of the climb is pretty sweet, probably steepest 5.7 I’ve climbed anywhere

Like I said, I am pretty familiar with this type of climbing. I may not be the best at it, or particularly like it, but it doesn't frighten me. 

Kor's flake is about the same size IIRC, and quite a bit longer and way off the ground.  
Ma Ja · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 104

Roadside Attraction in particular, I'd bring four 2's, three 3s, two 4s, and a 5 for the 2nd pitch. The 5 isnt absolutely neccessary, but I liked having it.

If you're climbing low 10s and below, I'd have as many 2s and 3s as you can get, two or three 4s, one 5, and doubles of everything else. If you dont place a ton of pro, I'd say minimum of three 2s and 3s. I like placing a lot of pro and love havig four 2s with me on most climbs.

G.I. takes a 5 at the start and you can bump it with you.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

I just got back from RRG after climbing Sat/Tues/Wed and then bombed home to MN overnight. Got a couple hours sleep on the way.

RAIN was the word.

Saturday we pull into 4Guys at 1 PM and get set up before heading out to Muir Valley for 5 routes on Bruise Bro's wall (Redeye Brew, Bee's Business, Sweet Jane, Trundling Kentucky and Hey There Fancy Pants). Good half day of climbing.

Sunday it is raining when we get up...we try and salvage something by heading up to The Zoo. It is severely overhanging so it stays dry in the rain, but we were late in arriving, and there were many parties on the easier routes we felt capable of climbing. Nice scouting trip for another time.

Raining again on Monday, it kind of clears up a bit so we decide to head out to the Fortress area. Still raining sporadically, so we warm up on Calypso w/easy start.  Nice little route, great gear, and we top roped the harder start. Next we hop on Blue Runner but it starts pouring rain, and the crack is seeping and is slimy, and the biggest cam we have is a #4....down-climb and bail. Miguel's for pizza.

Tuesday was a big day, back to Bruise Bro's for (Stay off the radio Jeff, CH4 to Rising,  Send me on my way, Ohio Climbing and Rat Stew)...back to the parking lot for a sit down and lunch. Then over to Johnny/Tectonic for Tall Cool one and Plate Tectonics...we wanted to do more but there was a back up on the other routes so we went to Johnny and did Chicken butts, 59"Drill and Bethel.

Wednesday, only climbing a couple of routes due to having to drive 13 hours to get home in time for work (my buddy, not me): 27years of climbing, A Brief history of climb before getting shut down on DaVinci's left ear.  That was enough and we headed out.

Only a few pieces placed, but I saw enough to want to go back next year...just maybe in late October.

climb2core · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 773

13 draws, 2 leaver biners, hammock, 1 dog, 2 kids, bluetooth speaker, 3 guidebooks, and avocado toast.   

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10
climb2core wrote: 13 draws, 2 leaver biners, hammock, 1 dog, 2 kids, bluetooth speaker, 3 guidebooks, and avocado toast.   

No dogs, no kids and only one hammock. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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