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Rap rings on Cathedral Peak?

Original Post
Zach Anatta · · Visalia, CA · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

Heading up this Saturday for what looks to be a blustery adventure.  I’ve seen conflicting reports on whether there are rappel rings/bolts at or near the summit.  SuperTopo says no and that down-climbing/leading is required.  But I saw at least one online report where a climber who down-climbed saw another party rapping.  Curious to hear from someone who has been up there recently.  Thanks!

Will Cavanagh · · Travelling · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

There were at one point bolts on the summit, however they have been gone for a while now.  I suspect that if someone were to add bolts again they wouldn't last very long.

It's an easy solo off the summit, but rather exposed.  One person in the party can lower to the third class below off the anchor and the second can solo off after.  You could "pitch out" the downclimb, however it traverses around in somewhat of a spiral and there's a crack that ropes love to get stuck in, so I don't personally recommend it if you're comfortable with one of the other options.

Ben Ha · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Just did it 2 weeks ago and there isn't any rap rings at the summit block!

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 130

No rap route. easy down climb but would hurt if you slipped! stay roped up down climb throw a cam or 2 in for your mate who just top belayed you, get around the corner and walk off.

Matt N · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 394
Hobo Greg · · My Van · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 200
Matt N wrote: https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-119.35961678624155&lat=37.8749888949328#.XY0VPPlKjct

Pretty stupid idea to head up on Saturday, based on current forecast. (and that forecast is for TM campground elevation)
 
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13200803200/WeatherFailure-to-Turn-Back-Inadequate-Clothing-Hypothermia 
 

Holy crap, that is most asinine accident report I’ve ever read. If it didn’t tragically end with the death of one of the climbers, I’d rip into just about every decision they made. Carrying ascenders on a 5.6??

J Sundstrom · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 160

No offense but going into the alpine and looking for rap rings and/or not being prepared to downclimb 4th class is asking for trouble.

Jon Hillis · · Valley of Sun · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0
Matt N wrote: https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-119.35961678624155&lat=37.8749888949328#.XY0VPPlKjct

Pretty stupid idea to head up on Saturday, based on current forecast. (and that forecast is for TM campground elevation)
 
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13200803200/WeatherFailure-to-Turn-Back-Inadequate-Clothing-Hypothermia 
 

Thanks for the article Matt... That is a sobering story of over crediting your abilities and under estimating the alpine. I find myself in this camp sometime and it is good to read these stories and be reminded a little hubris is good. 

Also light and fast keeps you safe in alpine, I was taught by a older climber that for a day climb you should always be able to carry your gear. Don't ditch stuff because when you need it it will be not there. 

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 55
Hobo Greg wrote:

Holy crap, that is most asinine accident report I’ve ever read. If it didn’t tragically end with the death of one of the climbers, I’d rip into just about every decision they made. Carrying ascenders on a 5.6??

That's a really good case study on compounding errors. Often hard to spot in the moment, but obvious retrospectively. 

Steve G · · Portland, OR · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 29

To be honest I don't think the summit is worth it - it's just a 20 foot block that can add an hour or more to your climb. There's usually a line waiting to get up there with folks enjoying the summit and then taking forever trying to figure out how to get down without leaving gear. I've found shiny 3 piece anchors up on the summit twice now. 

Hobo Greg · · My Van · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 200
Steve G wrote: To be honest I don't think the summit is worth it - it's just a 20 foot block that can add an hour or more to your climb. There's usually a line waiting to get up there with folks enjoying the summit and then taking forever trying to figure out how to get down without leaving gear. I've found shiny 3 piece anchors up on the summit twice now. 

All summits are worth it because that’s where the rock ends and the sky begins. 

Steve G · · Portland, OR · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 29
Hobo Greg wrote:

All summits are worth it because that’s where the rock ends and the sky begins. 

Okay you got me

Brad Young · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 380


Learn how to downclimb, or to make what is sometimes called a "Pinnacles rappel."

A Pinnacles rappel can be easily and very safely done with a rope across the top of a formation (note also that the "safe" part isn't necessarily the same as the "easy" part - they aren't the same thing, and, certainly, being safe isn't always easy).

And yeah, seriously reconsider going up there this weekend. Cathedral Peak isn't going anywhere... it'll be there for a future attempt.
sDawg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

I had a campground reservation this weekend and just got an email that Tioga is closing at 4 pm Saturday. You really, really should not bet your life on finishing by then, even if it wasn't snowing and you could downclimb 4th class.

Zach Anatta · · Visalia, CA · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

I’m aware of the weather, I know it’s getting worse.  Might not go.  
I never said I wouldn’t/can’t down climb.  I’m just trying to plan ahead by confirming information.

Zach Anatta · · Visalia, CA · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

sDawg- I just got the same email.  Thanks.  Probably gonna pass. Maybe head down to the Valley.  I heard they got some rap rings down there.  Plus they have a bar so I can get drunk before practicing my abseil skills.

Ben Ha · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Wait so Tioga pass /120 is closed for the season? Double checking!

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 17

no, it will probably re-open by Monday.  just closing for this cold storm system coming through

Marcus McCoy · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

John Muir did that shit without a rope and in big leather boots...

M Alexander · · SLO, CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 32
Marcus McCoy wrote: John Muir did that shit without a rope and in big leather boots...

To say it in a nicer way: 


You’ll be fine, the only true downclimbing is off the summit block and it is maybe two moves and easy. If one person is scared, the other can easily spot from below. 
I’m a pretty big baby and didn’t even know that move was something to worry about because I never heard people reference it, don’t let people hype it to be something bigger than it is. If you can climb the route, you can downclimb from the summit easy.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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