Mountain Project Logo

Trad shoe reccomendations

Original Post
Ryan Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Hi all,
I just started Trad climbing and I'm in need of a new pair of kicks. My current pair of Katana Lace's is downsized 2 full sizes for sport climbing so I need something more comfortable.

I've heard good things about the TC Pro, Anasazi Pink Lace, and Evolv General. Anyone ever use these? They were the primary ones I was looking at, tho the TC Pro I'm not sure fits me...the heelcup is massive and has some wiggle room. If all else fails and none fit me, I'd consider getting a bigger pair of Katanas, if those are good for Trad as well.

Todd Berlier · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

Big fan of the scarpa maestros...

Luke Whitesides · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Recommend La Sportiva Mythos if you're climbing primarily cracks

Ryan Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Luke Whitesides wrote: Recommend La Sportiva Mythos if you're climbing primarily cracks

Should have mentioned that I'll be the Gunks almost exclusively. Not sure how many cracks are there yet, as I've only made one trip so far. Thanks!

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 212

Oh...shoe.  Comfy sized Katanas are said to be great trad shoes, so if they fit you (and TC Pros don’t), worth a try for sure.

Ryan Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Ted Pinson wrote: Oh...shoe.  Comfy sized Katanas are said to be great trad shoes, so if they fit you (and TC Pros don’t), worth a try for sure.

Cool! They definitely fit me very well and are very comfortable. How would you recommend sizing for Trad? I wear a 44.5 for sport, but my street shoe is a US 13

Danny Poceta · · Calgary · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 41

In the gunks I usually prefer a tighter, sportier shoe than the typical definition of a “trad” shoe... rarely are you jamming so no need for flat toes, and most cruxes feature small edges for feet. Take em off at belays if they hurt.

 Type of protection shouldn’t dictate your footwear... type of footwork should.

Hayden Moore · · Dallas, TX · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 20

Anyone try out the UP Moccs yet? Loved the old Moccasyms but.. 

Lyle Harte · · Denver · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 5

The Scarpa Instinct Lace is a great face and somewhat overhung shoe that can jam okay if it is sized well.  I use it for Eldorado Canyon climbing as well as vertical to moderately overhung sport.
My go to shoe for crack climbing and tall routes is definitively a comfortably sized Katana Lace though.  You can do everything but heel hook in them.

Mike Palasek · · Columbus, OH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

Pinks are great trad shoes. Edging machines, and C4 rubber!

K S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

I really like the lace-up miuras. Good edging, fits in a crack decently well for jams, and easy to get nice and tight (or keep loose). Does require some breaking in, but what shoe doesn’t? 

Buck Rogers · · Germany · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 205

I absolutely love my TC Pros.  

At first the Achilles area was way too tight for the heel cup area but I did a few vertical cuts on the heel rand rubber and now they fit like a glove and I can wear them all day long.  

Took about 10 days in them to really break them in.  

Such a great shoe.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 212
Ryan Schneider wrote:

Cool! They definitely fit me very well and are very comfortable. How would you recommend sizing for Trad? I wear a 44.5 for sport, but my street shoe is a US 13

Damn!  I wear 13s as well and that size absolutely murdered my feet when I tried to wear it.  Maybe try a full size up (45.5)?  That was what I settled on for a comfy but snug fit for 1-2 pitches.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Trad shoe reccomendations"

Log In to Reply