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Broughton Ledges - Adirondacks

Original Post
Tyler Smith · · MA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 110
Claudine Safar · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

Yes. I have climbed there a handful of times. Last time I was met by someone with a shotgun. 

Will Roth · · Saranac Lake, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 5

The Adirondack Climbers Coalition mentioned in the article posted above has been working on access to this cliff. No pics, just a few considerations before you make plans to head out there:

1) The current land owner doesn’t specifically prohibit climbing.

2) Any removal of vegetation is strictly prohibited.

3) All the climbs are currently very dirty. Even if you didn’t intentionally remove vegetation while climbing, you would remove some vegetation.

4) Please think carefully before climbing here. It would be a shame to undo all the progress that has been made to open this amazing cliff to climbing.

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 43

There were a lot of routes there 20+  years  ago, before we got kicked out. Nice cracks, pretty sure all of them were climbed. but we didn't  document it so it didn't  happen

Jim Lawyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 4,497

I have collected information on over 30 routes here, many multi-pitch. Extremely high-quality rock, and the lines look superb. HOWEVER, everything is exceptionally dirty and not climbable. (When I say "exceptionally dirty", I mean days of cleaning for a single route.) The few bolts that exist are barely recognizable in the sea of leafy lichen, and the cracks are chocked closed with dirt, trees, and shrubs. The Eddy Foundation, which owns the property, does not allow removal of vegetation, so any route preparation will have to wait until NYS acquires the property, which is anyone's guess...it could be years away. Lastly, there is legal parking on Ensign Pond Road, but it doesn't connect up [yet] to the logging roads, so you'll have to bushwhack. The land near the parking is dotted with bogs and marshes, so some work needs to happen here. The approach used by the early developers, while shorter and obvious, is very illegal and shouldn't be used.

If you do venture in there, there is a single route that is kinda climbable, called "Milk Run", put in by Rich Romano in the late 1970s. It's a straight-up handcrack, 10a, probably 60' tall, tree anchor. It is perhaps the most obvious line on the cliff. People have been climbing this single line.

Finally, there are peregrines here, and rather aggressive ones. I'm not sure if the state includes this in their actively monitored cliffs, but make sure not to go here during nesting season.

If you're curious, go check it out. But it's probably best not to climb there yet.

Tyler Smith · · MA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 110

Thanks for the updates Will, June, and Jim! Good to hear a little bit more about it.

Will Roth · · Saranac Lake, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 5

NYS DEC does monitor this cliff for Peregrines. However, signage about the status of the nesting pair has not recently been posted online or on site.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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