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Routes left of Revenge of the Elderly? (Lower La Cueva, Sandias, New Mexico)

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Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 945

Does anyone have information about bolts/anchors/routes left of Revenge of the Elderly in Lower La Cueva Canyon?

I climbed Revenge yesterday and noticed a bolted anchor with chains about 30ft climber's left of the tree at the top of P1 on Revenge. Below that anchor was an older bolt on the face. Further east, I saw a sling on the larger pine tree that's at eye level with the Revenge P1 tree.

Also, new bolts about 50ft to the left of the top of P4 on a cool looking face.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,696

Left of P1 of RoE are three sport routes in the range of 5.8 to 5.10. I believe they all end at a bolted anchor down and climbers left of the RoE P1 tree. Getting to the start of them involves a somewhat exposed scramble traverse from roughly near the start of RoE.

Higher, Surf Naked is left of RoE but it has no bolts. Above Surf Naked is a 1 pitch route up an arete with at least a couple bolts - Surfs Up.  It ends near the bolts you mention but perhaps not right at them.  Have not done Surf’s Up.

So I suspect the higher bolts you mention might be useful for doing a short rap before traversing climbers right  to then get down via the RoE raps. Should go explore to be sure.

I have seen slings on a tree that is east of the lower parts of RoE and Surf Naked. Still, I always suspected that it does not hint at a route over that far - just that someone once bailed that-a-way.

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 945

Thank you for the details Bill. I'm curious to check out those lower sport routes. Have you climbed them?

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,696

Yes. But it has been a long time - probably over 10 years.  The trad lines always seem to more strongly call. :)

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 945

The bolt line I saw higher up was on this rock face near the right side: https://www.screencast.com/t/zpuUEa5DJy. They looking shiny and new. I couldn't see the anchor bolts but I'm sure they're at the top.

Do you know the names/FAs for the lower 3 sport routes?

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,696
Anna Brown wrote: The bolt line I saw higher up was on this rock face near the right side: https://www.screencast.com/t/zpuUEa5DJy. They looking shiny and new. I couldn't see the anchor bolts but I'm sure they're at the top.

Do you know the names/FAs for the lower 3 sport routes?

I know of someone who planned a few years back to replace the bolts on that old route Surfs Up. Perhaps they did, and so those are the shiny new ones you saw.

I do not know the names of the three sport routes.  And I think it would be  best if they just disappeared primarily because they have pretty bad belay stances: un-anchorable and exposed to severely long falls.

Besides, isolated sport routes like those do not meet the standards of the climbing community as put together by NMCrag:

“Bolt intensive climbs are not appropriate in Wilderness. Sections of fixed protection may be required to link natural features containing possibilities for protection with removable gear.”

The full NMCrag statement is on the main page for the Sandia Mountains in a post made by Mick Schein.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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